Fodors the Carolinas & Georgia

The soft mountain peaks, blue fog, and fall leaves of the Great Smoky Mountains have long inspired painters, writers, and musicians. Art-centric Asheville edges this great American landscape and makes the perfect launch pad for mountain touring. Pack your hiking boots to see the natural beauty up close.

Drive into Asheville or land at pleasant Asheville Regional Airport, one of the Souths best small airports, and rent a car. Stay downtown at Haywood Park Hotel the expansive suites are close to the action. Hip Asheville is a center of North Carolinas craft beer and local food movements, so lunch at lively Lexington Avenue Brewery, better known as LAB. Pair a beer flight with small plates like chorizo nachos and mussels vindaloo in the historic building that was once the citys oldest store. Hit the sidewalks for a look at Ashevilles art and architecture. Elaborate bricked and polychrome-tiled Basilica of St. Lawrence is a few blocks from LAB, as is Black Mountain College Museum + Arts Center. The legendary college nurtured maverick 20th-century artists. Alternately, kick around the architectural wonder that is Grove Arcade Public Market, built in 1929. Armies of stone gargoyles guard numerous locally owned stores and restaurants. Make advanced reservations for a dinner of extraordinary tapas at Crate, the hottest restaurant in town, which is partially owned by Chef Felix Meana, formerly of the famed elBulli restaurant on the Costa Brava of Spain. Or, if youre craving a meat-and-three Southern meal made with quality local ingredients, head to Early Girl Eatery. An early dinner allows time for a show at Asheville Community Theater, which stages productions year-round.

(1 hours by car)

Rise early to visit one of Ashevilles more than 50 tailgate markets, including Asheville City Market. Stock up on locally made foods for the ride to Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Interstate 40 heading west is the quickest route out of Asheville. Take the highway to U.S. 19, which links to the spectacular Blue Ridge Parkway just west of Maggie Valley. The parkway leads into Great Smoky Mountains National Park. At the park entrance, stop by Oconaluftee Visitor Center for maps and information. Spend the day exploring by vehicle and by foot. Newfound Gap Road (U.S. 441) is one of the parks most scenic drives and leads to Clingmans Dome Trail. This moderately difficult 1-mile trail ends at a 54-foot tall observation tower affording amazing mountain views. The round-trip hike takes about an hour, a nice warm-up before a picnic lunch and then another hike along Trillium Gap Trail to Grotto Falls. The 1.3-mile, moderately difficult hike ends at the 30-foot-high falls, the only falls in the park that you can walk behind. Stick around the park for sunset views at Chimney Tops Overlook. Camp at the park or depart for two luxurious nights at nearby Omni Grove Park Inn. The grand hotel, built in 1913 with locally mined stone, is home to the worlds largest collection of Arts and Crafts furniture. The tony spa offers massages, outdoor whirlpools, and a subterranean sanctuary to ease tired hiking muscles.

(15 minutes by car from Asheville)

Stick around Omni Grove Park Inn for a sunrise breakfast. If the weather is warm, book a day of kayaking, canoeing, or white-water rafting at the Nantahala Outdoor Center. The center also offers mountain biking, hiking, climbing, fishing, and horseback riding adventures in the Blue Ridge and Great Smoky mountains.

If the weather is chilly, set off instead for a morning tour of Biltmore Estate, Americas largest private home. Built in the 1890s as George Vanderbilts private residence, this castle of sorts has 250 rooms, including its own bowling alley, and 75 acres of gardens and grounds. Be sure to visit the complexs state-of-the-art winery and tasting rooms, as well as the winerys Bistro restaurant for lunch.

Spend late afternoon at the North Carolina Arboretum, created by Fredrick Law Olmsted, designer of New York Citys Central Park, and part of the original Biltmore Estate. See 65 acres of cultivated gardens and a bonsai exhibit of native trees. You may also explore a 10-mile network of trails.

Biltmore Village boasts many fine eateries, including Corner Kitchen. The renovated Victorian cottage has a fireplace in one dining room. The restaurant serves American classics with a twist like pecan-crusted mountain trout with bourbon sauce or sweet-mustard-glazed three-meat meatloaf.

If youre flying out of Asheville, enjoy breakfast at Omni Grove Park Inn, where window-lined dining rooms provide fantastic views. If youre driving home, check out early and head to downtown Ashevilles funky Tupelo Honey Caf for down-home Southern cooking with an uptown twist. Think maple-peppered bacon strips, goat cheese grits, and sweet-potato pancakes with whipped peach butter and spiced pecans. Dont forget a souvenir: a Tupelo Honey Caf brown-butter pecan pie to go.