Lonely Planet ePocket Athens: top sights, local experiences

Pork chops, grilled by a master.

Legendary cheap lunch spot near the central market.

Super-rustic Cretan specialities.

Checked tablecloths: check. Perfect calamari: check.

A taste of the village downtown.

The freshest seafood, simply prepared.

Watch the Psyrri scene from a little table at this sweet corner bar-cafe.

Complement ouzo with meatballs, spicy sausages and other classics at this Plaka courtyard spot.

At this converted school youll learn about the vast variety of seasonal Greek food.

The best of Athens modern tavernas.

The corner butcher, reimagined as a restaurant.

How can one restaurant be so good, so cool and so cheap?

A beautiful garden setting and Michelin-lauded food.

Molecular marvels, also with Michelin cred.

Excellent-quality meat goes into the skewers at this rockin souvlaki joint.

Fresh, healthy and spicy a budget diners best friend.

Spinach, cheese and pies, made in the most traditional way.

Sumptuous gelato and sorbet.

Eat your souvlaki standing.

Standard Practices

Athenians start eating dinner around 9pm.

For trendy restaurants, book ahead on weekends (try www.e-table.gr), or go early.

Plates are typically not cleared until you ask for the bill (and you must ask for it).

In Athens the line between cafe and bar is blurry. Most places segue from coffee to drinks, and maybe music and a DJ, at night. There is almost always food although places that serve only drinks are more common in the economic crisis (in which case, you can bring your own snacks). The smoking ban is often ignored.