CALIFORNIA STUDIES IN FOOD AND CULTURE
Darra Goldstein, Editor
Dangerous Tastes: The Story of Spices, by Andrew Dalby
Eating Right in the Renaissance, by Ken Albala
Food Politics: How the Food Industry Influences Nutrition and Health, by Marion Nestle
Camembert: A National Myth, by Pierre Boisard
Safe Food: The Politics of Food Safety, by Marion Nestle
Eating Apes, by Dale Peterson
Revolution at the Table: The Transformation of the American Diet, by Harvey Levenstein
Paradox of Plenty: A Social History of Eating in Modern America, by Harvey Levenstein
Encarnacins Kitchen: Mexican Recipes from Nineteenth-Century California: Selections from Encarnacin Pinedos El cocinero espaol, by Encarnacin Pinedo, edited and translated by Dan Strehl, with an essay by Victor Valle
Zinfandel: A History of a Grape and Its Wine, by Charles L. Sullivan, with a foreword by Paul Draper
Tsukiji: The Fish Market at the Center of the World, by Theodore C. Bestor
Born Again Bodies: Flesh and Spirit in American Christianity, by R. Marie Griffith
Our Overweight Children: What Parents, Schools, and Communities Can Do to Control the Fatness Epidemic, by Sharron Dalton
The Art of Cooking: The First Modern Cookery Book, by The Eminent Maestro Martino of Como, edited and with an introduction by Luigi Ballerini, translated and annotated by Jeremy Parzen, and with fifty modernized recipes by Stefania Barzini
The Queen of Fats: Why Omega - 3s Were Removed from the Western Diet and What We Can Do to Replace Them, by Susan Allport
Meals to Come: A History of the Future of Food, by Warren Belasco
The Spice Route: A History, by John Keay
Medieval Cuisine of the Islamic World: A Concise History with Recipes, by Lilia Zaouali, translated by M. B. DeBevoise, with a foreword by Charles Perry
Arranging the Meal: A History of Table Service in France, by Jean-Louis Flandrin, translated by Julie E. Johnson, with Sylvie and Antonio Roder; with a foreword to the English language edition by Beatrice Fink
The Taste of Place: A Cultural Journey into Terroir, by Amy B. Trubek
Food: The History of Taste, edited by Paul Freedman
M. F. K. Fisher among the Pots and Pans: Celebrating Her Kitchens, by Joan Reardon, with a foreword by Amanda Hesser
Cooking: The Quintessential Art, by Herv This and Pierre Gagnaire, translated by M. B. DeBevoise
Perfection Salad: Women and Cooking at the Turn of the Century, by Laura Shapiro
Of Sugar and Snow: A History of Ice Cream Making, by Jeri Quinzio
Encyclopedia of Pasta, by Oretta Zanini De Vita, translated by Maureen B. Fant, with a foreword by Carol Field
Tastes and Temptations: Food and Art in Renaissance Italy, by John Varriano
Free for All: Fixing School Food in America, by Janet Poppendieck
Breaking Bread: Recipes and Stories from Immigrant Kitchens, by Lynne Christy Anderson, with a foreword by Corby Kummer
Culinary Ephemera: An Illustrated History, by William Woys Weaver
Eating Mud Crabs in Kandahar: Stories of Food during Wartime by the Worlds Leading Correspondents, edited by Matt McAllester
Weighing In: Obesity, Food Justice, and the Limits of Capitalism, by Julie Guthman
Why Calories Count: From Science to Politics, by Marion Nestle and Malden Nesheim
Curried Cultures: Globalization, Food, and South Asia, edited by Krishnendu Ray and Tulasi Srinivas
The Cookbook Library: Four Centuries of the Cooks, Writers, and Recipes That Made the Modern Cookbook, by Anne Willan, with Mark Cherniavsky and Kyri Claflin
Coffee Life in Japan, by Merry White
American Tuna: The Rise and Fall of an Improbable Food, by Andrew F. Smith
A Feast of Weeds: A Literary Guide to Foraging and Cooking Wild Edible Plants, by Luigi Ballerini, translated by Gianpiero W. Doebler, with recipes by Ada De Santis and illustrations by Giuliano Della Casa
The Philosophy of Food, by David M. Kaplan
Beyond Hummus and Falafel: Social and Political Aspects of Palestinian Food in Israel, by Liora Gvion, translated by David Wesley and Elana Wesley
The Life of Cheese: Crafting Food and Value in America, by Heather Paxson
Popes, Peasants, and Shepherds: Recipes and Lore from Rome and Lazio, by Oretta Zanini De Vita, translated by Maureen B. Fant, foreword by Ernesto Di Renzo
Cuisine and Empire: Cooking in World History, by Rachel Laudan
Inside the California Food Revolution: Thirty Years That Changed Our Culinary Consciousness, by Joyce Goldstein, with Dore Brown
Cumin, Camels, and Caravans: A Spice Odyssey, by Gary Paul Nabhan
Balancing on a Planet: Critical Thinking and Effective Action for the Future of Food and Agriculture, by David A. Cleveland
The Darjeeling Distinction: Labor and Justice on Fair-Trade Tea Plantations in India, by Sarah Besky
How the Other Half Ate: A History of Working-Class Meals at the Turn of the Century, by Katherine Leonard Turner
The Untold History of Ramen: How Political Crisis in Japan Spawned a Global Food Craze, by George Solt
Word of Mouth: What We Talk About When We Talk About Food, by Priscilla Parkhurst Ferguson
Inventing Baby Food: Taste, Health, and the Industrialization of the American Diet, by Amy Bentley
Secrets from the Greek Kitchen: Cooking, Skill, and Everyday Life on an Aegean Island, by David E. Sutton
METAPHORIC CONSUMPTION. Laden with cultural meanings, food is always more than matter. If we are what we eat, we also eat what we areor imagine ourselves to beand we use food to show us how to be. As this fruit stand reminds us, food is rife with metaphor. With its biblical resonance (Revelation 14:1820) the grapes of wrath entered American culture during the Civil War through Julia Ward Howes immensely popular (in the North) Battle Hymn of the Republic (1861). John Steinbecks novel of 1939 and John Fords movie the following year extended the reach. Decades later, these grapes produce a world that turns every fruit into metaphor. W. B. Park, The New Yorker Collection/www.cartoonbank.com.
Word of Mouth
What We Talk About When
We Talk About Food
PRISCILLA PARKHURST FERGUSON
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESS
Berkeley Los Angeles London
University of California Press, one of the most distinguished university presses in the United States, enriches lives around the world by advancing scholarship in the humanities, social sciences, and natural sciences. Its activities are supported by the UC Press Foundation and by philanthropic contributions from individuals and institutions. For more information, visit www.ucpress.edu.
University of California Press
Oakland, California
University of California Press, Ltd.
London, England
2014 by The Regents of the University of California
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Ferguson, Priscilla Parkhurst.
Word of mouth : what we talk about when we talk about food / Priscilla Parkhurst Ferguson.
p. cm. (California studies in food and culture ; 50)
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-0-520-27392-4 (cloth, alk. paper) ISBN 978-0-520-95896-8 (electronic)
1. FoodSocial aspects. 2. FoodCross-cultural studies. 3. Food habitsCross-cultural studies. I. Title.