Singer - Fabric manipulation: 150 creative sewing techniques

Every time I teach fabric manipulation techniques someone creates a new variation. Almost all of the techniques will be transformed by using a different fabric or by tweaking the technique.

Try the following tips to help you create your own work:

Try radically different fabrics to those I suggest

Combine fabrics in similar tones or try ombr (graduated shade) fabrics

Use contrasting fabric textures coarse and silky for example on the same or similar techniques

Use contrasting linings or backings

Try techniques in transparent or opaque fabrics

Play with the scale thick fabrics often work better in large scale so try making giant versions

Experiment with repetition a technique can be transformed by using it en masse

Print, dye, embellish or embroider the fabric before or after manipulation

Think in 3D explore how the techniques would work on objects as well as flat fabric

Try the techniques in different materials such as neoprene, interfacing, paper or tyvek and combine with fabric

With wearables, think about the weight and thickness of techniques and how the fabric will hang, as well as the practicality of wear and care

Build techniques into clothing design by working the fabric manipulations before constructing the garment. Allow extra fabric for techniques such as smocking

Customize clothing using techniques like pleated ribbon, Suffolk puffs and appliqu

Create fabrics from scratch to make into one-off garments or accessories such as scarves

Share what you make and interact with others

See more of my own work and the inspiration behind it

Explore additional content and videos

Browse a reviewed list of tutorials around the web on fabric manipulation techniques

Read features on other designers and makers who use fabric manipulation techniques

See couture and historic textiles examples

In this section I have listed fabrics (and other materials) used to create the samples in the book, as well as many others that are of particular interest for fabric manipulation. For my samples, I have used fabrics that are mostly easy to use and visually clear, and generally I find natural fabrics preferable to synthetics.

My preference for natural materials is partly ecological, partly practical. Silk, wool and cotton behave in a more predictable way; they shape with heat and steam, they hold a crease, they iron flat most of the time. Synthetics are often harder to sew; they may be slippery and often dont hold a crease, which is why they are so popular for garment making.

There are some synthetics that work well with particular techniques and I have mentioned these below. Synthetics can often be set by steam which is an exciting technique: try gathering or smocking a polyester fabric then steaming thoroughly; remove the stitching and the puckered shapes should hold. (Similar effects can be achieved with wool if stitched then felted.)

Your own experimentation will uncover many more variations on the techniques, using radically different fabrics, or substituting a synthetic fabric for my natural one. You will discover that many of the techniques will come out completely differently, worked on fine silk chiffon compared to thick wool tweed, for example.

There are hundreds of types of fabrics with specific names based on their yarn, construction or finishing technique. Some fabrics have different names in different parts of the world to add to the confusion.

Many fabric names (such as satin or velvet) refer to the production technique not the fibre, which can lead to confusion in fabric purchasing, where a synthetic (polyester satin) may be confused with a natural silk (satin).

For me, wool is the best fibre in the world. It can be as soft as cashmere or as coarse as carpet wool, with many grades in between.

Lightweight wools and light suit-weight wools: From vintage Viyella to fine wool Melton (a woven wool with a fine felted surface, which frays very little but hangs beautifully), there are some beautiful fabrics to work with, including English worsted or wool sateen fabrics. All of these will take a crease well and would be suitable for many Pleat & Fold techniques.

Wool crepe:This is a very fine fabric, particularly that made from merino sheep. It drapes well and is particularly suited to Stitch & Gather techniques.

Felt:Most commercial craft felt is actually made from acrylic or recycled polyester rather than wool. Better quality wool is now being produced with about 70 per cent wool combined with acrylic or viscose and it is this that I prefer to use. Wool Melton also acts like fine felt and can be felted even more by washing to produce a denser fabric if required.

Boiled wool:Sold by the metre/yard, this is usually knitted wool fabric, which has then been shrunk or felted. It can be used in the same way as felted jumpers.

Wool fabrics include thick wool felt, fine suiting or sateen and wool Melton often used for coats.

Silk is probably the best fabric for use in most of the manipulations in this book, as it is so versatile and beautiful. Some of my favourite types of silk are listed below. Silk saris, vintage or new, can be a good source for fine quality silk fabric, but beware as many are actually synthetic.