Skolnick - 48 Hours in New Orleans

WHY GO Few destinations have as many sensational ways to kill time as the Crescent City. Its history runs deep, the colonial architecture is exquisite, theres mouthwatering Cajun and Creole food, historic dive bars, a gorgeous countryside, and lashings of great free live music.

The Vieux Carre, or French Quarter, is a good place to start your trip. At first it was just a tiny settlement on the river, surrounded by swamps and plantations. After the Louisiana Purchase prompted an influx of Anglo Americans, the French Quarter remained the heart of the Creole city, while white Americans settled Uptown. By the early 20th century the Quarter was a run-down working-class neighborhood and home to 12,000 people. But a 1930s preservation movement polished the old town houses and saved it from demolition. About 5000 people live here today.

Navigation remains a snap even though the grid was laid out in 1722. The narrow streets are lined with 19th-century Creole town houses and Victorian-era shotgun houses. Youll see wooden shutters, ornate cast-iron balconies and courtyards as you explore an endless lineup of appealing restaurants, bars, shops and galleries.

Begin your Nawlins adventure with a tipple at Lafittes Blacksmith Shop, set in one of the few 18th-century cottages to survive the French Quarter fires during the Spanish era. This candlelit hole-in-the-wall is purported to have been smuggler Jean Laffites workshop and French Quarter hideout. In the 20th century it became the favored watering hole of Tennessee Williams. Dine at Felixs Restaurant & Oyster Bar. Its been serving fresh-shucked oysters and boiled crawfish (in season) for 55 years. Or head to Coops, a Decatur St bar serving fantastic Cajun and Creole dishes. The fried chicken is particularly good.

Take 30 minutes and experience the cheesy go-go bars and mid-grade meat market scene that have colonized Bourbon St, one of the oldest streets in town. Then quickly seek some cleansing night music. Preservation Hall is the place to hear authentic New Orleans jazz played by local masters. The hall is cramped and sweaty, plus theres no bathroom, booze or snacks, so youll likely just take in one of the three 50-minute nightly sets. But when the seven-piece band blows, the roof rocks and the crowd goes wild. One Eyed Jacks offers a hip, local scene attracting bands that vary from punk to gypsy jazz. The front bar room is swanky, but the main theater is absolutely stunning with early-20th-century chandeliers, an oval bar and tables topped with miniature lamps. Its the perfect setting for the venues burlesque shows.

Bed down at the traditional Andrew Jackson Hotel, set on the same property of the former courthouse where the beloved general and future president, who saved the city from British invaders during the War of 1812, was famously held in contempt of court in 1815. Youll love the 18th-century courtyard, furnishings and gas lamp courtyard. Ask for one of the front 2nd-floor rooms with access to the veranda. Its next to the Cornstalk Hotel, so youll hear horses trot by on occasion, which just adds to the charm.

In the morning swing by Croissant DOr for a breakfast of exquisite fresh-baked pastries. This is another locals joint hidden in plain sight and the perfect place to recalibrate after a long New Orleans evening. Then stroll over to Jackson Square, where youll see a garden surrounding a monument to Andrew Jackson, the hero of the Battle of New Orleans, and the seventh president of the USA. But the real stars are the magnificent St Louis Cathedral and Presbytere, designed in 1791 as the cathedrals rectory. It now holds a permanent exhibit of vibrant masks and costumes, parade floats and historic photos called Mardi Gras: Its Carnival Time in New Orleans.

Royal St is a fun scene on Saturdays, when motorized traffic is blocked and pedestrians rule. In addition to the weekly influx of street musicians, magicians and puppeteers there are elegant antique shops, art galleries and vintage dress and hat boutiques. Chartres St is another great shopping lane for ladies looking for dresses and another pair of heels. Napoleon House makes for a cozy lunch spot. Rumor has it that after Napoleon was banished to St Helena, a band of New Orleans loyalists plotted to snatch him and set him up on the 3rd floor here (didnt happen). An attractive bar set in a courtyard building erected in 1797, it has a back patio, crumbling stucco walls and extraordinary service.

After lunch walk to the French Market. New Orleanians have been trading goods for over 200 years from this spot on the Mississippis riverbanks. In addition to Caf Du Monde (famous for serving beignets 24 hours a day for decades), where you can snack on fried and sugared beignets, theres a flea market, permanent gift stalls geared to tourists and a produce market. Dine on spectacular Cajun fare at Cochon in the Warehouse District, owned and operated by the reigning James Beard Southern Chef of the year (at the time of research), Donald Link. He serves a spectacular oyster roast and tasty cochon (Cajun spiced rice and sausage balls).

When darkness deepens, head to Frenchman St in the Faubourg Marigny District. This is where the locals party, and if you are staying in the Quarter, you can easily walk here.