C - The Kansas City Star Quilts Sampler: 60+ Blocks from 1928-1961, Historical Profiles by Barbara Brackman

Publisher: Amy Marson Creative Director: Gailen Runge Acquisitions Editor: Roxane Cerda Managing Editor: Liz Aneloski Editorial Compiler: Gailen Runge Project Editor: Alice Mace Nakanishi Developmental Editors: Jenifer Dick, Edie McGinnis, and Judy Pearlstein Technical Editors: Jane Miller, Linda Johnson, and Debbie Rodgers Cover/Book Designer: April Mostek Production Coordinator: Zinnia Heinzmann Illustrators: Kirstie L. Pettersen and Linda Johnson Photo Assistant: Mai Yong Vang Cover/sampler quilt photography by Mai Yong Vang of C&T Publishing, Inc.; section opener quilt photography by Aaron T. Leimkuehler; profiles section photography by Jon Blumb Published by C&T Publishing, Inc., P.O. Box 1456, Lafayette, CA 94549 The Commercial Quilt Network and The Kansas City Starby Barbara Brackman The history of commercial needlework patterns is a story of womens work. The Midwestern companies described here were run primarily by women who designed patterns for the newspapers, who sold patterns in department store dry goods sections, who pasted up simple mail order catalogs and folded mimeographed designs into brown paper envelopes. Needlework pattern companies were often cottage industriessmall businesses run from womens homes with the help of their sisters or their husbands, their mothers or their children and an occasional paid employee.

Related to the pattern sources were the needlework columns in the newspapers and magazines of the time, an empire managed by female editors, such as Louise Roote and Edna Marie Dunn, who made their careers in the womens section, discussing fashion or cooking. Their empires, of course, may also be viewed as a ghetto. Women were generally confined to the middle pages of the magazine or the womens section of the newspaper. Louise Roote was one ladies page editor fortunate enough to stay in the business until World War II, when she graduated from the womens page to become general editor at Cappers Weekly. Like many other wartime women, she took over a traditional mans job. Many women found needlework patterns to be remarkably profitable.

Some husband and wife teams, and women who lived without husbands to provide support, found managing a needlework company a prosperous alternative to traditional salaried occupations. The history of quilt pattern publication in America is generally traced to an 1835 article in Godeys Ladys Book picturing a hexagon design. Magazines sporadically printed quilt designs between 1835 and 1880, but it isnt until late in the nineteenth century that periodicals regularly referred to quilts, mentioning the current fads such as crazy patch and embroidered redwork. In the 1890s, references continued to increase. Quilt designs became a consistent feature of the readers exchange columns in womens and farm magazines. Does anyone have a pattern for a Drunkards Path? one reader might ask, to be followed up the next month by a sketch of the block in question.

These exchanges functioned much like the quilt computer lists of the twenty-first century that share patterns and techniques throughout the country. In the early twentieth century, periodicals began selling full-sized diagrams for the patterns that readers mailed in to the editor. The womans page might picture a block and ask readers to send a nickel or dime for the pattern. This combination of pictured block and mail-order pattern became the standard periodical format for decades. Among Ruby Short McKims many innovations was the idea of publishing the actual pattern to scale in the teens. Magazine mail-order departments competed with companies devoted solely to selling designs through the mail.

During the last decades of the nineteenth century, while Montgomery Wards and Sears, Roebuck and Company were taking advantage of rural free delivery to sell fabric, batting, and quilt frames through the mail, pattern companies like the Ladies Art Company, run by H. M. Brockstedt of St. Louis, sold patterns. Brockstedt is credited with the first catalog devoted to quilt patterns, published in 1889. The catalogs were often free, but quilters were also willing to pay a quarter for the advertising booklets, just for the chance to see photographs of blocks and antique quilts.

Most seamstresses at the time had the pattern making skills to draft their own templates if they had a sketch or photo of the finished block. In the late 1920s, newspapers around the nation responded to reader requests for a regular pattern feature. The Stars was among the earliest with the first appearing on September 22, 1928. Ruby McKims design initiated a column that lasted until May 24, 1961 with the last of Edna Marie Dunns many drawings. The pattern usually appeared in the Saturday paper and was repeated on Wednesdays in the weekly farm periodical published by The Star. The Weekly Star Farmer, also called The Weekly Kansas City Star, reached subscribers in Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Colorado, Nebraska, Iowa, and Arkansas.

In addition to their unique full-sized pattern feature, the paper also offered two different reader mail services, syndicated pattern features for mail order designs, a new quilt pattern format. Syndicated quilt columns began in the late 1920s and within a few years dominated the periodical pattern network. The Star was one of a very few papers that continued to run a unique quilt column featuring regional designs after the advent of the syndicated quilt column. Most, like Cappers Weekly and the Oklahoma Farmer Stockman, subscribed to the reader mail services operated by Needlecraft Supply, which sold designs under the name of Laura Wheeler, or Kansas Citys Colonial Patterns, which used the name Aunt Martha. The quilt revival that flourished from the late 1920s through the 1940s began to lose steam after World War II. Quilts were again perceived as part of the world of poverty, hand-me-downs, and country crafts, concepts quite unpopular in the 1950s.

By 1960, most of the needlework companies were closed and the quilt columns, including The Stars, were replaced with television listings and Dear Abby features.

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Color: Thirties Reproductions People commonly refer to the pastel quilts from the mid-twentieth century as Depression Quilts, but the fashion for light clear colors in scrappy patchwork combined with a neutral of plain white cotton appeared before the 1929 stock market crash and the economic crisis of the 1930s. During the midtwenties, America was undergoing a different crisis of social changes. Women who bobbed their hair and shortened their skirts were ready to take up quiltmaking so long as the look was modern. Louise Fowler Roote, writing for Cappers Weekly, described the new color scheme, when she advised readers to piece an old pattern, not in the brilliant red and green oil calico of colonial times, but in the soft pastel colorings of maize and pale green on an ivory background. New dyes and new technology enabled fabric mills to give quilters inexpensive cottons printed in the whole spectrum of colors, a real change from the unreliable, dark cottons available through World War I.

During the late 1920s, splashy prints covered with layers of stylized flowers were fresh and new. Art deco zigzags, plaids, and stripes coexisted on the same fabric with tulips, daisies, and pansies. The prints combined any number of shades, but the recurring color theme was white. The majority of the dress prints from the time and the majority of the quilts made with those fabrics include white. The quilts therefore have a light appearance, despite the dark and bright details of the colors in the prints. Although design principles werent often written down, we can infer a few general rules by looking at the quilts of the time.

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