A NEIGHBORHOOD
guide
to
WASHINGTON, D.C.S
HIDDEN HISTORY
JEANNE FOGLE
Washington, D.C. city map. By Edward F. Fogle.
Published by The History Press
Charleston, SC 29403
www.historypress.net
Copyright 2009 by Jeanne Fogle
All rights reserved
Cover design by Natasha Momberger
First published 2009
e-book edition 2011
ISBN 978.1.61423.001.4
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Fogle, Jeanne.
A neighborhood guide to Washington, D.C.s hidden history / Jeanne Fogle.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references.
print edition: ISBN 978-1-59629-652-7
1. Washington (D.C.)--Description and travel. 2. Washington (D.C.)--Buildings,
structures, etc. 3. Historic sites--Washington (D.C.) 4. Historic buildings-
Washington (D.C.) 5. Washington (D.C.)--History. I. Title.
F195.F587 2009
917.530442--dc22
2009010456
Notice: The information in this book is true and complete to the best of
our knowledge. It is offered without guarantee on the part of the author or
The History Press. The author and The History Press disclaim all liability in
connection with the use of this book.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in
any form whatsoever without prior written permission from the publisher except
in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews.
Contents
Introduction
B eyond the memorials, museums and monumental buildings in Washington are historic neighborhoods filled with hidden treasures and enchanting stories of the past. Rich, poor, noble, humble, famous and infamous people from around the world have all come to Washington during the past 220 years. Some stayed longer than others, but many left legacies that can be found in the neighborhoods, reflected in the small museums, outdoor sculpture and the variety of religious structures poised next to historic mansions, brick row houses or tiny wood-frame dwellings. Washingtons neighborhoods are unique and diverse, reflecting a remarkable past.
Washington developed slowly as a residential city. In 1800, when the federal government began to occupy the new capital city, many government workers had no other option but to reside in local taverns. Laborers lived in sheds or makeshift lodges. Because the city was built on farmland, farmers still resided within sight of the federal buildings, and their animals roamed freely through the unpaved streets. Members of Congress were hesitant to commit time, effort or money to transform the nations capital into a livable city. Their tenure here was temporary and they never considered Washington their home.
Near L AFAYETTE S QUARE and the White House, however, wealthy and influential people began building homes, like the Octagon House (, site 5), known as the Church of the Presidents, was built in 1816 and brought a sense of community to this exclusive neighborhood. Many early church members shared an interest in the business of the emerging city and an optimistic belief in the new experiment of self-government. They chose to live near the president because proximity to power is power.
Row houses in Washington, D.C. By Edward F. Fogle.
, site 2), were constructed by the wealthier residents.
The port city of G EORGETOWN on the Potomac River was well established when Congress arrived in 1800. Older than Washington by nearly one hundred years, Georgetown boasted many country estates, like Dumbarton House (, site 3), and grand mansions built by successful merchants and gentleman farmers. However, Georgetown was four miles away from the Capitol, and few new residents working for the government could afford the horse and carriage that were necessary for the commute.
People lived where they worked, and this tradition continued into the twentieth century when the old downtown area evolved into Washingtons C HINATOWN . The Treasury Building and the Old Patent Office (, site 8).
The nouveaux riches of the late nineteenth century came to Washington in order to build their winter homes near D UPONT C IRCLE . This neighborhood was newly established near the outer northwest boundary of the old city. Dupont Circle became , site 3), have owned homes in Kalorama. Many of the grand old mansions have become embassies; others have been converted into private clubs, art galleries and museums.
The F OGGY B OTTOM neighborhood, located between the White House and Georgetown, supported Washingtons light industry throughout the nineteenth century. Modest, two-story, wood or brick row houses were built for the workers. In 1910, the George Washington University relocated to Foggy Bottom and row houses became classrooms. Whole blocks of houses were replaced by government buildings and white marble Beaux Arts structures like the American Red Cross (, site 4). The few houses that were saved in the charming old neighborhood have become hidden treasures among the 1960s Modernist structures.
Washingtons first suburb was established after the Civil War on a high hill called M T . P LEASANT . A few wealthy residents built grand homes and encouraged the construction of fine embassies (, site 4) and national churches. Streetcar lines were built and brought more people to Mt. Pleasant, nearby M ERIDIAN H ILL and Lanier Heights (later renamed A DAMS M ORGAN ). Substantial row houses and the citys first apartment buildings were built to accommodate the new residents. By the mid-twentieth century, however, the wealthy moved out and immigrants moved in, creating an international quarter that takes pride in its motto: Unity in diversity.
M T . V ERNON S QUARE is situated north of Washingtons old downtown and south of an established African American neighborhood. Developed as a late nineteenth-century commercial and residential neighborhood, it was racially and economically mixed. A few blocks north, fine theatres, like the Lincoln Theatre (attracted the great jazz performers like local-born Duke Ellington. The 1968 riots devastated the neighborhood, which was renamed S HAW . After forty years, revitalization has come to Shaw, and history and gentrification are mixed in the neighborhood now known as the New U.
Toward the end of the nineteenth century, two suburbs-within-the-city, C LEVELAND P ARK and W OODLEY P ARK , were established on the heights above Georgetown, on what had previously been open fields and farmland. Several country estates were established in the area, including Rosedale (, site 4).
Washington boasts more than fifty neighborhoods. Each is unique; each is significant for its parks, architectural styles and diverse residents. Some are more notable than others because of their age, location, historic sites or famous residents. Washingtons neighborhoods are in a constant state of flux, changing to meet the needs of each new generation of residents who come to call Washington their home, for a few years or for a lifetime. Go beyond the monuments and discover what Washingtonians already know: that Washington is a city of great beauty, steeped in history and filled with some of the most interesting people in the world.
Chapter 1
Lafayette Square and the
Presidents Neighborhood