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Baime - Big shots: the men behind the booze

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Baime Big shots: the men behind the booze
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Part III. South of the Border -- Chapter 7.: Captain Morgan: pirate, killer, drunk ... rapist? -- Chapter 8.: Jose Cuervo: a bastard liquor and the family who makes it -- Chapter 9.: Bacardi: plotting to kill Castro with the CIA: the inside story of the planets bestsellin liquor -- Part IV. The Scots and Irish -- Chapter 10.: Baileys: The Bailey brothers dirty little secret -- Chapter 11.: Johnnie Walker: Tea and alchemy; blending moonshine in Scotland -- Part V. Top shelf -- Chapter 12.: Hennessy: The one-man invasion of France -- Chapter 13.: Dom Perignon: I am drinking stars! -- Part VI. Last Call! -- Chapter 14.: Tanqueray, Cabo Wabo, J & B, Old Grand-dad ... The gangs all here.;Part 1. American Whiskey men -- Chapter 1: Jim Bean: the grandaddy of bourbon and the grandson who just might have murdered him -- Chapter 2.: Seagrams: A dynasty founded on rumrunning -- Chapter 3. Jack Daniels: A classic American whiskey, distilled by a nine year old -- Part II. Martini men -- Chapter 4.: Smirnoff : From Smirnov vodka to Smirnoff white whiskey -- a little scam goes a long way -- Chapter 5.: Beefeater: the crack cocaine of the eighteenth century and the chemist who gentrified it -- Chapter 6.: Martini & Rossi: the shocking truth about vermouth.

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New American Library
Published by New American Library, a division of
Penguin Group (USA) Inc., 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014, U.S.A.
Penguin Books Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, England
Penguin Books Australia Ltd, 250 Camberwell Road, Camberwell, Victoria 3124, Australia
Penguin Books Canada Ltd, 10 Alcorn Avenue, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M4V 3B2
Penguin Books (N.Z.) Ltd, Cnr Rosedale and Airborne Roads, Albany, Auckland 1310, New Zealand

Penguin Books Ltd, Registered Offices:
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, England

First published by New American Library, a division of Penguin Group (USA) Inc.

First Electronic edition, June 2005
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Copyright A. J. Baime, 2003
All rights reserved

REGISTERED TRADEMARKMARCA REGISTRADA

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Baime, Albert J.
Big shots : the men behind the booze / Albert Baime.
p. cm. I
SBN 0-451-20980-X
1. Liquors. I. Title.
TP597.B25 2003
641.2'55dc21 2003008023

ISBN-13: 978-1-1012-0982-0
Set in Humanist
Designed by Erin Benach

Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book.

The scanning, uploading and distribution of this book via the Internet or via any other means without the permission of the publisher is illegal and punishable by law. Please purchase only authorized electronic editions, and do not participate in or encourage electronic piracy of copyrighted materials. Your support of the authors rights is appreciated.

Making or distributing electronic copies of this book constitutes copyright infringement and could subject the infringer to criminal and civil liability.

www.penguin.com

T his is a book about liquor. Though it was difficult, to say the least, Ive omitted beer and wine, with the notable exception of Dom Perignon, whose fascinating story I couldnt ignore, and a short chapter on Martini & Rossi vermouth. A good portion of this book is about whiskeyAmerican, Scotch, Canadian, Irish. To make matters easy, Ive blown off the whiskey/whisky controversy, simply because no one really cares that much. And if you do, you should pour yourself a whiskey to take your mind off things. Throughout the book, the profiles of these men and their liquors are garnished with any number of cocktail recipes. Unless otherwise noted, these recipes have been distilled down from the million different available sources to suit my liking. In other words, the mixology is an informed suggestion. Try each recipe out, and tinker with them as you like.

You cannot drown yourself in drink. Ive tried. You float.
John Barrymore

A bout twelve thousand years ago, or maybe closer to two hundred thousand years ago (who knows for sure?), someone discovered alcoholby mistake. To this person, whoever he or she is, a toast should be raised, especially considering the strange particulars of how it probably went down. There are any number of theories, but the following is the most plausible:

It was a broiling hot day in the Mideastvery likely in what is presently Iranand some tribesmen were foraging for fruit. They liked grapes in particular. The wild fruit balls were colorful and seductive, bunches of little orbs that exploded with sweet juice when you bit down on them, each with a seed that assured there would be more to eat tomorrow. As they toiled, the tribesmen grew thirsty. The sun burned above them like the sizzling yolk of a giant egg frying in the sky. Their lips cracked, and their tongues hung out of their mouths. Water was a scarce commodity. There wasnt enough to go around, and every drop counted.

At the end of the day, the tribesmen retired to where they kept their fruit. Tired and thirsty, one noticed that, in a large container filled with grapes, the weight of the pile had crushed the fruit at the bottom, and some juice had leaked out. The man reached down and scooped up some of the juice using a container of some sort, perhaps a cup whittled out of wood. First he sniffed the juice. The stuff gave off a strange smellsickly sweet and pungent. There mightve been insects crawling in it. But the guy was thirsty, so he sipped nervously. And then he sipped again. And again. Seeing that it was safe, he gulped down the whole lot.

Slowly a tender feeling began to overcome him. The tight sinews in his neck and back began to relax. A strange numbness spread into his limbs, as if tiny spiders were crawling through his veins. He felt dizzya soft, warm buzz. Hours later, he was busted for driving a stolen car while intoxicated, with a cross-dresser in the passenger seat who was later identified as Winston Churchill, the greatest drunk of all time.

Thus alcohol as we know it was born. Or thats my version anyway. There is at least one more commonly accepted theorythat a woman, a member of the harem of an ancient mythological Persian king named Jemsheed, discovered alcohol. Apparently, this king loved grapes so much that he collected and preserved them. Some of the grapes rotted, turned to mush, and fermented. Seeing that the fruit had turned sour, the king placed it in a vessel, labeled it poison, and lodged it in a vault. (Why he didnt just throw it out is anyones guess.) Later, one of his harem, while suffering from a devastating migraine, drank some of the poison in hopes of killing herself. After she drank the grape juice, the headache disappeared and the woman was overcome by a strange ecstasy. According to the legend, the king caught on and began cultivating grapes for wine production. To this day, wine in the Mideast is sometimes referred to as zeher-e-khoosh, or the delightful poison.

Whichever theory you accept, the facts remain the same. The dust on the fruit had yeast in it. When the fruit rotted, the natural sugars had mingled with the yeast on the skins and the juice had fermentedliterally turned from water into wine.

From that moment in the Neolithic Period onward, ethyl alcohol (C2H5OH) would become a staple in nearly every burgeoning civilization across the globe. Later on, in the twelfth century (though some argue it was much earlier), European monks would have the bright idea to boil wine and collect the vaporsa process known as distillation. Since alcohol vaporizes at a lower temperature than water, the monks realized it was possible to separate it from other ingredients, to concentrate its strength. Then the fun really began.

Its no coincidence that, as different cultures around the world discovered the alchemy of distillation, many chose the same name for their drinks. The monks of the Dark Ages in Europe named their distilled spirits aqua vitaewater of life in Latin. Early Scottish distillers called whiskey usquebaughwater of life in Gaelic. The Poles called their liquor shiznennia vodkawater of life in Slavic. The French called brandy eau-de-vie. You get the point. Wherever knowledge spread, alcohol followed, made out of whatever ingredients were on hand.

Now jump forward a few hundred years. Youre standing in a bar in the twenty-first century, staring at liquor bottles, tapping your foot to a Johnny Cash tune. Spread out before you are myriad drink choices: rums, vodkas, whiskies, gins, tequilas. Some are as clear as water; others are the color of polished copper, amber brown, or a gold so rich it looks as if the sun had melted into a bottle. The exotic liquids come from all four corners of the earth, different nectars exuding different flavors and scents, with brand names and marketing slogans written in strange tongues. You ask yourself, how did drinking go from the water of life days to the bizarre mix of branded mass-marketed stuff we drink today?

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