FOREWORD
HART TRANSPLANT
O scar Wilde once famously noted, Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months. And so it was that amid the slider and taco tsunami of 2012, an unassuming new restaurant opened on an unloved stretch of Enmore Road in Sydneys inner west.
The site had previously been endured for several years by a dour-faced purveyor of Nordic cuisine, whose initial mystification at why the kale and quinoa crowd werent smitten by the prospect of whole-roasted piglet washed down by glogg had hardened to an embittered capitulation.
The space then reopened as Hartsyard, with the only hint at its menu being the words seed and feed on the sign outside. Before you even got a look at the menu, though, you were greeted by a ray of strawberry blonde sunshine in Naomi Hart, a front-of-house dynamo and ex-Broadway hoofer whod returned to her homeland with an American hubby who reckoned he knew his way around a kitchen.
Managing a semi-subterranean work area of baseball-capped rogues and vagabonds was New Yorker Gregory Llewellyn. Although his Manhattan resume was as expansive as it was impressive, Gregory instinctively knew he was only ever as good as his last plate.
Much like a musician who spends years finding his voice, Gregory had concocted a culinary Ramones with a nice schmear of Patsy Cline. His flavours were pure American ballsyness, the portions in generous contrast to the artsy disappearing-up-their-own remoulades contrivances being served in the hot eateries across town.
Conjuring an equilibrium between the familiar and the challenging, the delicate and the robust, he created a menu that would garner accolades and acclaim from serious critics and one-upping bloggers eager to stake their claim as being the first to write up the Yard. The only thing missing was the pretension. In fact you could check it in at the divey bar across the road, where you would routinely be despatched while your table was readied.
Do a shift in Gregorys kitchen and meet his sparkly-eyed mother Franny two privileges this writer has had and it quickly becomes apparent that generosity of spirit is paramount. Dont talk about what youre going to do, just shut up and get on with it. Praise is a dish for others to offer.
The item that exemplifies the Hartsyard phenomenon and the reason youre holding this book is the fried chicken. Crunchy, succulent and tender not to mention smothered in low-country sausage gravy it is a moreish evocation of bold, honest rural Americana, with just a hint of trailer-park couldnt-give-a-continental. It is to be toasted with Lynyrd Skynyrd and Jack Daniels. Which, like Naomi and Gregory, will always have a home in Australia.
DAVID SMIEDT
Hartsyard regular & friend
INTRODUCTION
GETTING ACROSS THE LINE
G regory has been cooking since he was 15, when he skateboarded to the only restaurant close enough to his home in rural Johnson, upstate New York. As a young adult, he dabbled briefly in snowboarding, but he soon realised he preferred the adrenaline of a bustling restaurant mid-service on a Saturday night, a rail full of tickets and 15 plates on the pass.
Me? Ive been a nun, a cow, a duckling, a whore, a servant, a princess and a dancing plate. That is to say, I used to perform in musical theatre and we met when I was in NYC living the dream. Well, maybe not quite the dream. I was very happy, but from memory I was also very poor and pretty tired. But then we opened a restaurant just after wed had a baby and I quickly recalibrated my thoughts on poverty and fatigue.
Its not a particularly original tale. We met at a restaurant where I was the hostess and he was the chef. We dated in secret and married 18 months later at a converted foundry in Queens. I always knew he wanted his own restaurant and I always said Id help him open it. He does back of house and I do front. And so it follows with this book. He led the charge on the recipes and I filled in the rest. But theres the rub.
He likes fried chicken; I dont. He likes potato bake; I like salad. He likes beer; I like dessert. It was just like the stage. Artistic differences already. So we decided to combine our likes and invite you all to one big Hartsyard fried chicken dinner party.
Where Gregorys from, fried chicken speaks of traditions and rituals. But fried chicken is not just a dish for special events. Fried chicken makes a special event thats the point. Its humble and egalitarian: everyone is equal when youre eating with your fingers. No pomp and circumstance here. And definitely no tablecloths. This is a party for all your favourite people, the ones with whom there is no need for pretence. Invite them over, make them a drink and tell them to get involved.
When I was a kid, I used to do a lot of cross-country running. I was never particularly great at it, mind you, and the leaders were usually so far in front I would have to rely on the brightly coloured flags tied around the trees to tell me which way to go.
I reckon following recipes without pictures is like cross-country running without the markers. How do you know what youre heading for? So, because this book is full of recipes designed by a chef, specifically for those of us who are not, weve included plenty of pictures to help you get across the finish line.
Most of the recipes are for a party of six; if you have more friends than we do, just make double.
NAOMI HART
W hen Gregory and I moved from New York to Los Angeles, I had to get an American drivers licence. By this time Id been living in the US for nearly six years, but there had never been cause to have one. Who drives a car in New York?!
Isnt it reassuring when you discover that another country does something as badly as your own? I am pleased to confirm that my experience in the American DMV was no less exasperating than what I have endured in Australia. I can guarantee that at both you will come out frustrated, sweaty and late for whatever activity you have to do next, no matter how much time you allow.