McCulloch - Paris: an inspiring tour of the citys creative heart

1st Arrondissement
The Sophisticate

2nd and 9th Arrondissements
The Rising Stars

3rd Arrondissement
The Hipster

4th Arrondissement
The Fallen Star

5th Arrondissement
The Bohemian

6th Arrondissement
The Aristocrat

7th Arrondissement
The Grand Dame

8th Arrondissement
The Fashionista

10th and 11th Arrondissements
The Young Bloods

18th Arrondissement
The Enchanter

Paris is far more than a city. It is an irresistible, enthralling source of inspiration and fascination; an urban wunderkammer bulging with the unusual, the whimsical, the magical and the memorable.

Because of this, the place has become something of a modern mecca for the worlds aesthetes and creative innovators, who make the pilgrimage here each year to witness its splendid displays and quirky collections, discover new ideas and insights and generally indulge in a bit of French flnerie (or whats otherwise known as rambling the rues in search of new style).

The joy of Paris, of course, has always been as much about the idling, ogling, musing and contemplating as it has been about the sightseeing, but in the last few years the city seems to have become more stimulating and invigorating thanks to a new generation of creatives both French-born and Paris-loving expats who have revitalised the place with their captivating takes on fashion, design and style.

As a journalist, book editor and photographer who specializes in architecture and design, Im fortunate (and grateful) to have a job that allows me to travel the world at least once a year. And its the city of love, light and luminous design that draws me back, year after year. Its Paris where Im most likely to find fabulously imaginative artisans, truly unusual ateliers and eye-poppingly beautiful boutiques. Its Paris where Im most likely to stumble across fantastic exhibitions, regardless of the month I happen to be visiting. And its Paris where Im most likely to get my fix of inspiration and motivation its like taking a creative vitamin for the mind.

Despite my love of its alluring streets, charismatic quartiers, quirky characters and sublime urban style, I do have a lingering problem with the city. It has a sneaky tendency to keep the best bits to itself. Like a French woman who plays her hand very close to her Chanel-scented chest, it likes to keep many of its most appealing parts as teasing secrets. Even Parisians notice this. And thats where this book comes in.

After 20 years and countless visits to Paris, I have built up a journalists black book of addresses and contacts, from amazing ateliers and gorgeous little stores to secret design museums, hidden quartiers, cuter-than-cute streets, engaging cafes and bookstores and even affordable design hotels. I am often asked for my opinion on creative or inspirational places to visit in Paris, and I often call on this dog-eared little book for thoughtful recommendations. In turn, I am always seeking out the best tips on inspirational destinations, aware that there is always something new to discover about this constantly evolving capital.

After my last journey to Paris, I came up with the idea of writing a creative guide to Paris for all lovers of art, design and style: a book that offered both inspiration and information, a beautifully illustrated insiders guide with a whole new perspective on Paris. I wanted to write a poetic ode to a city thats been dear to my heart for the better part of two decades, but I also wanted to lift the lid on some of the citys best-kept design and style secrets, from shops, bistros, bookstores, galleries, museums, hotels and ateliers to rues that surprise and delight. Its a book that not only shows you where the most creative parts of Paris are but also encourages you to be creative yourself.

And so Id like to take you on a tour of Paris, highlighting the most creative places and inspiring spaces in this aesthetically rich city. Its a book for design and style enthusiasts, creative entrepreneurs and anyone who loves Paris.

Paris is a beautiful city to visit, but it can also feel a little like a mille-feuille at times: gorgeous to gaze upon and near irresistible to most but full of complicated layers that can sometimes seem too much to get through, at least all at once. These layers comprise 20 neighborhoods, called arrondissements, which are all different in personality, architecture and atmosphere but are all held together by a unifying, carefully designed grid of interconnecting streets, bridges and buildings.

Tucked within these arrondissements are another 80 smaller and more intimate neighborhoods, called quartiers, which are just as atmospheric and just as interesting to explore. (Each arrondissement has four smaller quartiers to it.) And every one of these arrondissements and quartiers has a name. Few visitors know this; they simply refer to the numbers (3rd, 4th, etc.), which is certainly far easier. But the names are often much more interesting. The 11th arrondissement, for example, is called de Popincourt and encompasses the quartiers of Folie-Mricourt, Saint-Ambroise, La Roquette and Sainte-Marguerite. And then there are my favorites: de lEntrept (the 10th arrondissement) and des Gobelins (the 13th).

It is always a difficult decision choosing which of Pariss arrondissments to explore. Each offers something different to every individual. For this book I selected those areas I felt had the greatest creative appeal. Ive always loved the bookshops, boutiques and hidden quartiers of St Germain and the 6th arrondissement, but I also adore the boulevards and grandeur of the 1st. Others will, I know, embrace the charm and secret courtyard of Saint-Paul and the Marais, the classic mise-en-scenes of Montmartre and the revitalized energy of neighboring Pigalle. Ive had to leave some areas out but I would like to encourage you to explore these other areas on your own. Seeking out your own private Paris is the best way to discover this beautiful city.

So where to start? Well, the best way to see Paris is to treat it like one of those magnificent mille-feuilles : break down the layers, piece by piece, so that you can slowly savor each one.