Proctor James - Rough Guides Snapshots Sweden: Stockholm

Without a shadow of a doubt, Stockholm is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. Built on no fewer than fourteen islands, where the fresh water of Lake Mlaren meets the brackish Baltic Sea, clean air and open space are in plentiful supply here. One-third of the area within the city limits is made up of water, while another third comprises parks and woodlands. As a result, the capital is one of Europes saner cities and a delightful place in which to spend time. Broad boulevards lined with elegant buildings are reflected in the deep blue water, and rows of painted wooden houseboats bob gently alongside the cobbled waterfront. Yet Stockholm is also a high-tech metropolis, with futuristic skyscrapers, a bustling commercial heart and one of the worlds hottest start-up scenes.

For most visitors, the first stop is the Old Town, Gamla Stan , a medieval jumble of cobbled streets and narrow alleyways huddled together on a triangular-shaped island. Close by is the tiny island of Skeppsholmen , home to the citys main modern art gallery and a quirky floating youth hostel. To the north of the Old Town, the district of Norrmalm swaps tradition for a thoroughly contemporary feel: this is Stockholms downtown area, where youll find shopping malls, huge department stores and conspicuous, showy wealth. The Central Station and the lively park known as Kungstrdgrden are located here too. Most of Stockholms museums and galleries are spread across this area and two others: to the east, the more residential stermalm , with its mix of grand avenues and smart houses; and to the southeast, the green park island of Djurgrden . Here the extraordinary seventeenth-century warship, Vasa , rescued and preserved after sinking in Stockholm harbour, and Skansen , the oldest and best of Europes open-air museums, both receive loud and deserved acclaim.

To the south of the Old Town, the island of Sdermalm was traditionally the working-class area of Stockholm but is now a haven for hipsters. Its grids of streets, lined with lofty stone buildings, create an altogether more homely ambience than the grand and formal buildings of the city centre. Its here, in a fashionable area known as SoFo (south of Folkungagatan) that youll find some of the citys most enjoyable bars and restaurants. Crossing the narrow neighbouring island of Lngholmen, known for its popular beaches, youll reach Kungsholmen , an island thats fast becoming a rival to its southern neighbour for trendy restaurants and drinking establishments.

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CARVINGS ON THE VASA BATTLESHIP, VASAMUSET

Wander through the narrow streets and alleyways of the Old Town for a taste of medieval Stockholm.

Ride the ferry across Stockholm harbour for some of the best views of the city.

Take a stroll through leafy parkland right in the city centre and enjoy some great waterside views.

Fascinating seventeenth-century warship raised from Stockholm harbour and painstakingly restored to her former glory.

Sample work by some of the worlds leading photographers at this slick museum by the waterfront.

Taking a dip in the refreshing waters of Lake Mlaren is a favourite summer activity among Stockholmers.