Camille DeAngelis - Moon Dublin

Temple Bar

Ireland can be beautiful at any time of year. July and August are peak months, when the sheer volume of tourists in popular destinations can be downright irritating.

Do those tour buses really get on your nerves? Visit during the spring or autumnthe shoulder seasonsor in winter, better yet.

Want to get off the beaten track? Late spring or early autumn is best, but transportation can be limited to more remote locales between November and April. Note that late autumn can be the rainiest time of year.

There is much to be said for a winter visit. New Years is a good choice; listening to a live traditional music session with a pint in hand sure beats watching the ball drop. Irish winters are milder than those of New Englandthe low/high temperatures run 0-11C (32-52F)and the rare snowfall wreaks both magic and chaos (the former in the landscape; the latter in the national bus system). Aer Lingus and other airline carriers post their lowest fares in January and February, and many hotels, B&Bs, and hostels offer better off-season rates, though many others close altogether.

You may also wish to time your visit to coincide with a particular event, such as the Dublin Theatre Festival in early October.

Upon arrival, an immigration official will stamp your passport for a three-month tourist visa. Come prepared with proof of departure within the 90-day window.

Bring lots of comfortable clothing to wear in layers, as well as a waterproof jacket. Pack a couple of sweaters even in summertimebut dont let the threat of rain keep you from applying sunblock. On lucky days when the temperatures in the high 20s C (80s F), youll find the beaches (or strands) crowded with pasty-skinned locals of all ages reveling in the sun.

Dress is quite informal, even in the fancier pubs and restaurants. Though raingear is sensible, you will find that the Irish dont wear galoshes unless farming is their business. Getting soaked, followed by drinking tea while warming by the fire, is an Irish ritual. Throw a few tissue travel-packs in with your skivvies.

If you plan to do a lot of hill-walking or other outdoor activities, you might want to bring a pair of Wellingtons along with your hiking boots. If you dont mind the occasional case of damp feet, however, keep your load light. Umbrellas are nearly useless, as the wind makes the rain seem like its falling sideways. Be optimistic and pack your sunglasses.

Hill-walkers and cyclists should also bring the usual compass, flashlight, medical minikit, pocketknife (in your checked luggage), and so forth.

Purchase a plug adapter for electronic devices before you leave. (The Irish plug has two horizontal prongs and one vertical.)

International flights arrive at Dublin Airport; the most commonly used carriers from the United States and Canada are Aer Lingus and United Airlines. If you are planning to travel in summertime, book as far in advance as possible for the best fares. Flights from Europe (London, Paris, Amsterdam, et al.) on budget airlines like Ryanair can be extremely economical. Its also possible to arrive by ferry from England or France.

Dublins city center is easily walkable. The city has an extensive public transportation system that includes Dublin Bus, the Luas light rail, and the DART (Dublin Area Rapid Transit), which is very useful for visitors who want to see more of Counties Dublin and Wicklow.

If you are planning to use a fair bit of public transportation in the Dublin area, consider purchasing a Leap travel card (www.leapcard.ie, 19.50), a three-day transit pass valid on the Luas light rail, the DART (within County Dublin), and all Dublin Bus and Airlink buses (excluding day tours). Purchase a Leap ticket at the Dublin airport, either at the information desk or at the Spar grocery shop in the arrivals hall. The card expires 72 hours after the first time you use it.

Day-trip destinations are largely accessible by public transportation (Dublin Bus, DART, Bus ireann, and Irish Rail) and/or bus tour. To explore less-traveled areas, rent a car. Gas is quite expensive compared to American prices, but competition keeps rental fees surprisingly affordable.

Three days in Dublin is just enough time to hit the highlights (and take an excursion to get a little breather from all the urban hustle and bustle).

When you arrive Friday morning, refresh yourself with a stroll through St. Stephens Green, pausing for coffee at Kaph or at one of the Powerscourt Townhouse cafs a block off