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Fernandes - The Last Jews of Kerala: The Two Thousand Year History of Indias Forgotten Jewish Community

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Fernandes The Last Jews of Kerala: The Two Thousand Year History of Indias Forgotten Jewish Community
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Two thousand years ago, trade routes and the fall of Jerusalem took Jewish settlers seeking sanctuary across Europe and Asia. One little-known group settled in Kerala, in tropical southwestern India. Eventually numbering in the thousands, with eight synagogues, they prospered. Some came to possess vast estates and plantations, and many enjoyed economic privilege and political influence. Their comfortable lives, however, were haunted by a feud between the Black Jews of Ernakulam and the White Jews of Mattancherry. Separated by a narrow stretch of swamp and the color of their skin, they locked in a rancorous feud for centuries, divided by racism and claims and counterclaims over who arrived first in their adopted land. Today, this once-illustrious people is in its dying days. Centuries of interbreeding and a latter-day Exodus from Kerala after Israels creation in 1948 have shrunk the population. The Black and White Jews combined now number less than fifty, and only one synagogue remains. On the threshold of extinction, the two remaining Jewish communities of Kerala have come to realize that their destiny, and their undoing, is the same.
The Last Jews of Kerala narrates the rise and fall of the Black Jews and the White Jews over the centuries and within the context of the grand history of the Jewish people. It is the story of the twilight days of a people whose community will, within the next generation, cease to exist. Yet it is also a rich tale of weddings and funerals, of loyalty to family and fierce individualism, of desperation and hope.

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Table of Contents ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Thanks to the people who made this - photo 1
Table of Contents

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Thanks to the people who made this book possible. First, I am fortunate to have publishers who are both inspiring individuals as well as great editors. Thank you to my London publisher Philip Gwyn Jones, publisher of Portobello Books and Granta, and his team, including Laura Barber and Hannah Marshall. Thank you to Brando Skyhorse and his team at Skyhorse Publishing in New York, and to Ravi Singh, publisher at Penguin India in New Delhi. Im also grateful to freelance editor Daphne Tagg for her insightful copy-editing and to my literary agent Ayesha Karim at Aitken Alexander Associates for her valued support. Thank you to Storm Design for my website: www.ednafernandes.com .

The book was made possible by the kind co-operation of the Cochini Jews of Ernakulam, Mattancherry and Israel. Throughout, I have valued their trust, generosity of spirit in the face of adversity and stories. I am appreciative of the help I received at the British Museum, the Paradesi and Chennamangalam synagogues, as well as the Israel Museum in Jerusalem.

Last, love and thanks to my friends and family, particularly: Felix, Andrew Atkinson, Max and Elfina Fernandes, Maria Fernandes, Tania Fernandes, and Bernard and Sylvia Atkinson.


E.F., 2008

ALSO BY THE SAME AUTHOR

Holy Warriors

LIST OF REFERENCES

Armstrong, Karen, A History of Jerusalem , UK, HarperCollins, 1996

Benjamin, Joshua M., The Mystery of Israels Ten Lost Tribes , India, Mosaic Books, 1989

Book of Baruch, 10

Buchanan, Claudius, Christian Researches in Asia , UK, Cadell & Davies, 1812

Correa, Gaspar, The Three Voyages of Vasco da Gama and His Viceroyalty , UK. Reprint of an 1968 edition by the Hakluyt Society, London

Diamond, Jared, Collapse: How Societies Choose to Fail or Survive , USA, Viking Penguin, 2005

Gandhi, Book of Quotations , India, 1931

Genesis 19:29

Goitein, Shlomo D., A Mediterranean Society: The Jewish Communities of the World as Portrayed in the Cairo Genizah , US, University of California Press, 1993

Goldberg, David J. and Rayner, John D., The Jewish People, Their History and Their Religion , UK, Viking, 1987

Isaiah 11:11

Isaac, I.A., A Short Account of the Calcutta Jews with a Sketch of the Bene Israels, the Cochin Jews, the Chinese Jews and the Black Jews of Abyssinia , India, 1917

Jews of Cochin, India , India, Jewish Welfare Association

Johnson, Barbara, essay: The Cochin Jews of Kerala

Johnson, Barbara, Our Community in Two Worlds

Josephus, Flavius , Jewish War , c. 75 CE

Josephus, Flavius, Antiquities of the Jews , c. 793 CE

Jussay, P M, The Jews of Kerala , India, University of Calicut, 2005

Katz, Nathan and Goldberg, Ellen, A Jewish King at Shingly, India, Manohar, 2006

Katz, Nathan and Goldberg, Ellen, Kashrut, Caste and Kabbalah: The Religious Life of the Jews of Cochin , India, Manohar, 2005

Katz, Nathan and Goldberg, Ellen, The Last Jews of Cochin: Jewish Identity in Hindu India , US, University of South Carolina Press, 1993

Kushner, Gilbert, Immigrants from India in Israel, US, University of Arizona Press, 1973

Lawson, Charles Allen, British and Native Cochin , UK, Asian Educational Services, 1861

Leviticus, 19:1-2, 11-18

List of rights granted to the Jews of Kerala, engraved upon copper plates presented by the Hindu ruler around 1000 CE. Translated into English from Tamil from a replica of the plates housed in the Israel Museum Collection

Loti, Pierre, India , London, Asian Educational Services, Originally published in 1903. Reprinted in 1995

Mandelbaum, David, The Jewish Way of Life in Cochin , US, Jewish Social Studies, 1939

Mandelbaum, David, Society in India , US, University of California Press, 1970

Mandelbaum, David, Social Stratification among the Jews of Cochin in India and in Israel , Jewish Journal of Sociology , 1975

Mandelbaum, David, A Case History of Judaism : The Jews of Cochin in India and in Israel , 1981

Menon, K.P.P., History of Kerala , India, 1929

Narayan, G, Cultural Symbiosis in Kerala , India, 1972

Nissim, Rabbi, fourteenth century poet and traveler who wrote of the King of Shingly

Pannikkar, K.M., Malabar and the Portuguese , India, Voice of India

Pliny the Elder, Naturalis Historia

Pliny the Elder, The Periplus of the Erythraean Sea

Polo, Marco, The Travels of Marco Polo, the Venetian , 1904

Psalm 84:3

Psalm 91

Psalm 144:4

Rabinowitz, Rabbi Louis, Far East Mission, Eagle Press, South Africa, 1952

Shilappadikaram , or Lay of the Ankle Bracelet, India, second century Tamil poem

Shoskes, Henry, Your World and Mine , US, 1947

Edited by Slapek, Orpa, The Jews of India , Israel, The Israel Museum, 2003

Talmud, Hagigah 27a

The Chennamangalam Synagogue: A Jewish Community in a Village in Kerala , India

Pamphlet produced by the synagogue

Zimra, Rabbi David ben Solonom ibn, letter to the Cochini Jews from Cairo, 1520

CHAPTER ONE
The White Jews of Synagogue Lane

This land itself was a secret, shared between the sea and mountains, an illegitimate child of the two natural forces, protected by and provided for in a special way. Therefore, there was an assurance of plenty and peace.

M.G.S. NARAYAN, CULTURAL SYMBIOSIS IN KERALA


K .J. Joy sat on the steps of the Paradesi Synagogue in Mattancherry and with the gesture of an open palm offered me a seat beside him. If ever a man lived up to his name, it was the shamash or caretaker of the local synagogue. In his fifties, he possessed still-boyish features and an equanimity that absorbed lifes petty trials with easy humor. He was tall, with a languid air and a face of delicately wrought dark features lit by a smile that eclipsed the gloom around us.

He drew his knees up beneath his chin and clasped his arms around his legs in weariness. It had been a long day. Since early morning he had stood on sentry duty outside the sixteenth-century synagogue, shooing away the streams of tourists who came calling daily. Now as the sun melted into the ragged Mattancherry skyline and the evening settled around our shoulders like a blue-grey shroud, Mr. Joy could loosen the tensions of duty and relax.

It was October 1: Yom Kippur, Day of Atonement and fasting for the Jewish community. The synagogue doors were bolted and the houses of Synagogue Lane, home to the remaining handful of White Jews, were closed to the outside world. Doors and lower windows were shuttered tight, lace curtains on the upper windows drawn, lights off. The heat of the day yielded to a cool stillness, and an uneasy quiet pervaded. With the approach of nightfall, Synagogue Lane had become a place of repose for phantasmal shadows.

Mr. Joy cast a pensive glance down the one way street that is Synagogue Lane and the heart of Jew Town. Once a bustling community, it was now home to only twelve White Jews.

He had worked as caretaker at the synagogue for twenty-five years, taking responsibility for its daily upkeep, lighting the oil lamps for Shabbat and the festivals, polishing brass work, dusting chandeliers, chaperoning the hordes who came calling every day, corralling groups of excited school kids, explaining the history and generally keeping the public at bay and out of the path of the prickly Paradesi elders. Through it all, he remained composed, serene, sometimes a smile of mischievous amusement playing beneath his black moustache.

I pulled out my notebook containing a list of names, the names of the Cochini White Jews I had carefully gleaned from historical accounts and memoirs like jewels from the dust, and began to read them to Joy, who adopted the furtive manner of a Cold War spy betraying classified information to the enemy. His dark eyes darted towards the windows and doorways of the Jewish houses down the length of the street as he answered in a conspiratorial whisper:

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