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Dave DeWitt - Chile Peppers: A Global History

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For more than ten thousand years, humans have been fascinated by a seemingly innocuous plant with bright-colored fruits that bite back when bitten. Ancient New World cultures from Mexico to South America combined these pungent pods with every conceivable meat and vegetable, as evident from archaeological finds, Indian artifacts, botanical observations, and studies of the cooking methods of the modern descendants of the Incas, Mayas, and Aztecs. In Chile Peppers: A Global History, Dave DeWitt, a world expert on chiles, travels from New Mexico across the Americas, Europe, Africa, and Asia chronicling the history, mystery, and mythology of chiles around the world and their abundant uses in seventy mouth-tingling recipes.

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CHILE PEPPERS

Dave DeWitt CHILE PEPPERS A Global History University of New Mexico - photo 1

Dave DeWitt

CHILE
PEPPERS

A Global History

University of New Mexico PressAlbuquerque

2020 by Dave DeWitt

All rights reserved. Published 2020

Printed in the United States of America

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS CATALOGING-IN-PUBLICATION DATA

Names | DeWitt, Dave, author.

Title | Chile peppers: a global history / Dave DeWitt.

Description | Albuquerque: University of New Mexico Press, 2020.

Includes bibliographical references and index.

Identifiers | LCCN 2020008831 (print)

LCCN 2020008832 (e-book)

ISBN 9780826361806 (paperback)

ISBN 9780826361813 (e-book)

Subjects | LCSH: Hot peppersHistory.

Cooking (Hot peppers)

Classification | LCC SB307.P4 D487 2020 (print)

LCC SB307.P4 (e-book)

DDC 633.8/4dc23

LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2020008831

LC e-book record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2020008832

Cover illustration | The peperoncini of Italy.

Photograph by Harald Zoschke. Used with permission.

Design | Mindy Basinger Hill

THIS BOOK IS FOR NANCY GERLACH , MY COAUTHOR OF 10 BOOKS, AND FOR THE MEMORY OF HER LATE HUSBAND AND MY GOOD FRIEND, JEFFREY GERLACH .

CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Hundreds of people from all over the world have - photo 2

CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Hundreds of people from all over the world have - photo 3

CONTENTS

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Hundreds of people from all over the world have helped with - photo 4

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Hundreds of people from all over the world have helped with this project over many years. In addition to the individuals mentioned in the text of this book, the following people were particularly helpful: Mary Jane Barnes, Marlin Bensinger, Paul Bosland, Pat and Dominique Chapman, Marco Del Freo, Nancy and Jeff Gerlach, Antonio Heras, Patrick Holian, Sharon Hudgins, Stephen Hull, Gianluca Luisi, Lois Manno, Jos Marmolejo, Scott Mendel, Robert Spiegel, Richard Sterling, Mary Jane Wilan, and Harald and Renate Zoschke.

INTRODUCTION I have been writing this book for 44 years and Im not done yet - photo 5

INTRODUCTION

I have been writing this book for 44 years, and Im not done yet, despite the fact that youre holding it in your hands. Thats because my research on the subjects of chile peppers and fiery foods never ends. Just like the archaeological discoveries at Cern that are documented in , some new disclosure about chile peppers will crop up, and, by the sheer force of my interest, Ill compulsively write about it. This is my writing niche; its what I do and why Im called the Pope of Peppers.

Over those 44 years, Ive written, sometimes with coauthors, 42 published books on chile peppers and fiery foods, and hundreds of articles published in magazines and on blogs and websites. Ive chosen some of my best writing from past projects for this book and also added new material thats previously unpublished in print form. So this book is partly a culinary history and partly a memoir about my trips around the world to research chile usage in many different cuisines.

Although this book is not designed to be a cookbook, I have selected several representative recipes for each chapter so readers can create the flavors they are reading about in their own kitchens. If readers want more recipes, I have thousands posted on FieryFoodsCentral.com, and theres always my book, 1,001 Best Hot & Spicy Recipes.

Please remember that I am writing about the past, not the present, and that things have changed over the decades. Some of the people mentioned in this book are no longer with us, unfortunately, but fond memories of them linger. Some of the countries my wife and I explored are edgy to the point of being dangerous in certain circumstances, so be careful in all the countries mentioned in this book, and especially when visiting Mexico, Jamaica, and South Africa. Travelers are safer if they stay in designated tourist areas and should always try to find locals as guides, even if they have to be hired. Thats the way Mary Jane and I have traveled over all these years and weve never had any problems at all.

We were warned about pickpockets in Rome, narcotraficantes in Mexico, Asian gangs in Cabramatta, Australia, thieves in Belize, and muggers in every large city, but by following a few basic rules, none of the bad guys bothered us. Hang with the locals; dont try to buy any illegal drugs; dont get drunk; dont be loud or call attention to yourself; but do use credit cards; and avoid showing a lot of cash. We had a street-smart guide named Tony in Jamaica who drove us all over the island, and I told him to take us only to restaurants where there were no white faces. No problem, mon, he said, and he was rightthere were none because he was with us. One of our black guides in South Africa was shocked when we invited him to have lunch with us; in Barbados, the same thing was a common occurrence. So be adaptable and go with the flow. If offered a choice between an American breakfast and a local one, choose the latter. Smile a lot wherever you travel, and dont be the stereotyped ugly American.

THE FIVE DOMESTICATED CAPSICUM SPECIES

Because the species names of the Capsicum genus are mentioned so often in this book, Im placing the definitions here for quick and easy reference.

annuumThe name means annual, which of course is inaccurate as chiles are perennials in climates where there are no freezes. The is the most-grown species in the world in both gardening and agriculture, and its varieties are commonly known all over the world. The bells, jalapeos, cayennes, anchos, serranos, New Mexicans, paprikas, and ornamentals are all of the annuum species.

Serrano chiles in the authors garden Photograph by Dave DeWitt baccatumThe - photo 6

Serrano chiles in the authors garden. Photograph by Dave DeWitt.

baccatumThe species name means berry-like, and it is native to South America, where the varieties are commonly called aj. There are at least two wild forms (varieties baccatum and microcarpum) and many domesticated forms. The domesticated ajs have a great diversity of pod shape and size, ranging from short, pointed pods borne erect to long, pendant pods resembling the New Mexican varieties. They are cultivated in most South American countries.

Aj amarillo in the authors garden Photograph by Dave DeWitt chinenseThis - photo 7

Aj amarillo in the authors garden. Photograph by Dave DeWitt.

chinenseThis species was misnamed Capsicum chinense in 1776 by Nikolaus von Jacquin, a Dutch physician who collected plants in the Caribbean for Emperor Francis I from 1754 to 1759. Jacquin, who first described the species as chinense in his work Hortus botanicus vindobonensis , wrote, mysteriously, I have taken the plants name from its homeland. He was dead wrong, of courseall capsicums are New World plants. Many people, including myself, believe that the species name should be changed to

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