Lonely Planet - Lonely Planet. Madagascar 2012

Lemurs, baobabs, rainforest, beaches, desert, trekking and diving: Madagascar is a dream destination for nature and outdoor lovers and half the fun is getting to all these incredible attractions.

Sakalava woman carrying fish on her head, Morondava ()
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Madagascar is unique: 5% of all known ani-mal and plant species can be found here, and here alone. The remarkable fauna and flora is matched by epic landscapes of an incredible diversity: you can go from rainforest to desert in just 300km. Few places on earth offer such an intense kaleidoscope of nature. Making the best of it, however, can be challenging (and expensive): Madagascar is the worlds fourth-largest island and its roads are dismal. But those who relish an adventure will come into their own: the off-road driving is one of a kind, and there are national parks that only see 100 visitors a year, regions that live in autarchy during the rainy season and resorts so remote youll need a private plane or boat to get there.

With 5000km of coastline, 450km of barrier reef and 250 islands, no stay in Madagascar would be complete without a few days on the islands shores. Divers will revel in the choice of sites, from underwater cathedrals to shipwrecks, and will relish the chance to see rays, whale sharks, reef sharks and many other kinds of sharks. Snorkellers will be awed by the sheer grace of turtles and marvel at the rainbow of colours displayed by corals and fish. For those keen to keep their heads above water, the idyllic beaches will prove hard to resist. And once youve swayed in your hammock to your hearts content, you can join a local fisher for a pirogue (dugout canoe) trip, go sailing to explore nearby islands or board a whale-watching boat to admire humpbacks breaching one of natures most majestic spectacles.

Madagascar has been populated by successive waves of migrants from various corners of the Indian Ocean, each bringing their own customs and beliefs. This cultural melting pot has evolved into an intricate set of beliefs and rituals that revere ancestors spirits. For travellers, getting accustomed to the central role that death plays in everyday life is often an opportunity to reassess their own beliefs, and attending a famadihana (traditional exhumation and reburial) or a traditional circumcision ceremony can be the highlight of a trip. There is much history to discover, too, from the 12 sacred hills of Antananarivo to the pirate cemetery of Ile Sainte Marie and the vestige of Madagascars industrial revolution in Mantasoa.

Crystal-clear waters of La Mer dEmeraude ()
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With more than 100km of trails, a majestic mountain range, three challenging peaks and epic landscapes, this national park (), which takes you from one side of the park to the other via its summit, lush valleys and some natural swimming pools, and enjoy a couple of nights under the stars. Dont let a lack of forward planning stop you: hire everything you need at the park office, from guides to cooks, porters and even camping equipment.

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Tackle the Infamous RN5

If you revel in the idea of a road challenge, this is it. It may be a route nationale, but make no mistake, the 240km stretch between Maroantsetra and Soanierana-Ivongo ().

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Ile aux Nattes

If youve been dreaming of tropical island paradise, Ile aux Nattes ().

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Sunset at Alle des Baobabs

Few things say Madagascar more than this small stretch of the RN8 between Morondava and Belo-sur-Tsiribihina () measures 21m around its trunk!

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Tsingy de Bemaraha

There is nothing else on earth quite like the jagged limestone pinnacles of Parc National des Tsingy de Bemaraha (). A Unesco World Heritage Site, the serrated, surreal-looking peaks and boulders are a geological work of art, the result of millennia of water and wind erosion. Just as remarkable is the infrastructure the national park has put in place to explore this natural wonder: via ferrata (fixed-cable routes), rope bridges and ladders, with circuits combining forests, caves, pirogue trips and even abseiling.

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Diving & Snorkelling at Andavadoaka

Madagascar boasts the worlds fifth largest coral reef, 450km of fringing, patch, and barrier reefs from Andavadoaka in the north to Itampolo in the south. The pearl of the barrier is Andavadoaka ().

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Tsiribihina River

Taking a trip down the Tsiribihina () means disconnecting completely from everything: for two and a half days, there are no cars, no roads, and theres no mobile coverage. It is an experience of utter relaxation, with little more to do than admire the landscape, take in local life, chat to your guide, sing by the campfire and marvel at the night sky. For the real deal, hop on a wooden pirogue; for a little more comfort and conviviality, board a