Richard Arghiris - Costa Rica Handbook

A beacon of neutral democratic ideals, Costa Rica stands out in a turbulent region; as far back as the 1930s one commentator called it the Switzerland of Central America. Whatever its political credentials and claims to neutrality, this country is undeniably a nature-lovers paradise: youll find moss-draped cloudforest on the slopes of Monteverde, where the red and green sacred quetzal bird hides in the treetops and hummingbirds busy round drinking nectar, theres rainforest wilderness on the Osa Peninsula and remote turtle-nesting beaches on the north Atlantic and Pacific coasts. The countrys volcanic peaks range from the gentle steaming lagoons of Iraz and Pos to the explosive Arenal, just outside La Fortuna, where red-hot lava lights up the night sky.

Travellers looking to combine nature and comfort should head to the endless sand and surf beaches of the Nicoya Peninsula, Quepos and Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio, or to the off-beat strands of the Caribbean. For adrenalin junkies theres whitewater rafting, trekking and coast-to-coast mountain biking, and the chance to climb the barren pramo savannahs to the peak of Cerro Chirrip.

Historically Costa Rica has avoided the extremes of external influences. The Spanish found no mineral wealth here or compliant indigenous labour to work the land. Hard conditions and poverty forced both conquerors and conquered to work and live side by side. It was only with the arrival of wealth from the magic coffee bean in the central highlands that a landed gentry arose to conflict with the interests of a liberal merchant class.

As a result, Costa Ricas architectural highlights are somewhat limited compared to much of the region, concentrated in the churches that dot the central highlands. But, just like the countrys natural nuances that host incredible diversity, the architectural differences are subtle. And just like the natural wonders, youll have to look harder to truly appreciate them.

Richard Arghiris

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Costa Rica

top things to do and see

Volcn Arenal

Central Americas most active volcano, Arenal, is an easy trip from nearby Fortuna. On night trips to Arenal, view the explosive entertainment of glowing lava crashing down the mountainside. Alternatively, hike through diverse ecosystems during the day at the foot of this perfect volcanic cone, then bask in nearby hot springs..

Monteverde

Monteverde provides a brief insight into the magnificent diversity of the highlands, including over 400 species of bird, the highlight being the resplendent but elusive quetzal. For a birds eye view, soar through the spectacular misty cloud forest canopy on a high-speed zip-line..

Beachlife

Beach lovers and surfers can pick pretty much any spot from the northern Nicoya Peninsula down the Central Pacific coastline and find a personally tailored version of paradise with lively resorts and quiet hideaways catering for all budgets, tastes and energy levels, all with some of the best sunsets on the planet..

Parque Nacional Chirrip

Travelling overland down the mountainous spine of the country, a barren pramo wilderness at the heart of the continental divide, youll be able to enjoy sweeping views of Chirrip Grande, the countrys highest peak and a serious challenge for trekkers..

Puerto Jimnez and Pennsula de Osa

Located on a remote Pacific peninsula, the pristine Parque Nacional Corcovado is a moment of magic for both adventurers and wildlife lovers, where you can encounter sublime rainforest fauna. Gateway to Corcovado is Puerto Jimnez, a relaxed former mining town with a frontier feel..

Parque Nacional Tortuguero

The canals of Tortuguero are likely to provide quiet moments of awestruck contemplation as you encounter the wildlife and vegetation of this aquatic inland waterworld, while on the coast prehistoric turtles lumber out of the surf to nest on the beaches as they have done for millions of years..

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planner

putting it all together

Choosing where to go in Costa Rica is tantamount to being a child in a huge sweet shop the choice is daunting and you want to do it all immediately. Given all the options, its worth doing a bit of planning. Obviously, the more time you have the better, but one of the great things about Costa Rica is its diversity-to-size ratio. Even with just a few days, you would have time to visit a couple of highland spots and a beach before heading home. Ideally, you would spend two or three weeks in Costa Rica; four to five weeks would be much more relaxing.

Central Valley, cloudforest and beaches

Seeing a cross-section of Costa Rica in 10 days could be tough. Space it out and it could be ideal. After a day in San Jos or a nearby town of the Central Valley, its a short trip north to Fortuna taking in the craft capital of Sarch, and the topiary creations of Zarcero en route. A couple of days in Fortuna allows plenty of time to see the Arenal volcano and the nearby waterfall, and still have time for a day trip north to the wetlands of Cao Negro Wildlife Reserve close to the Nicaraguan border, before heading round Lake Arenal to Santa Elena for a couple of days exploring the delights of the cloudforest in the Monteverde area.