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Christopher Kimball - Milk Street The New Rules Recipes That Will Change the Way You Cook

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Milk Street The New Rules Recipes That Will Change the Way You Cook: summary, description and annotation

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Christopher Kimball, Milk Street: The New Rules: Recipes That Will Change the Way You CookBecome the best cook you know with this playbook of new flavors, new recipes, and new techniques: Milk Streets New Rules, with 200 game-changing recipes driven by simple but transformative insights into cooking.This revelatory new book from James Beard Award-winning author Christopher Kimball defines 75 new rules of cooking that will dramatically simplify your time in the kitchen and improve your results. These powerful principles appear in more than 200 recipes that teach you how to make your food more delicious and interesting, like:Charred Broccoli with Japanese-Style Toasted Sesame Sauce (Rule No. 9: Beat Bitterness by Charring)Lentils with Swiss Chard and Pomegranate Molasses (Rule No. 18: Dont Let Neutral Ingredients Stand Alone)Bucatini Pasta with Cherry Tomatoes and Fresh Sage (Rule No. 23: Get Bigger Flavor from Supermarket Tomatoes)Soft-Cooked Eggs with Coconut, Tomatoes, and Spinach (Rule No. 39: Steam, Dont Boil, Your Eggs)Pan-Seared Salmon with Red Chili-Walnut Sauce (Rule No. 44: Stick with Single-Sided Searing)Curry-Coconut Pot Roast (Rule No. 67: Use Less Liquid for More Flavor)Youll also learn how to:Tenderize tough greens quicklyCreate creamy textures without using dairyIncorporate yogurt into baked goodsTrade time-consuming marinades for quick, bright finishing sauces, and moreThe New Rules are simpler techniques, fresher flavors, and trustworthy recipes that just worka book full of lessons that will make you a better cook.

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Copyright 2019 by CPK Media LLC Cover design by Jennifer Baldino Cox Cover - photo 1

Copyright 2019 by CPK Media, LLC.

Cover design by Jennifer Baldino Cox

Cover art by Connie Miller of CB Creatives

Cover 2019 Hachette Book Group, Inc.

Hachette Book Group supports the right to free expression and the value of copyright. The purpose of copyright is to encourage writers and artists to produce the creative works that enrich our culture.

The scanning, uploading, and distribution of this book without permission is a theft of the authors intellectual property. If you would like permission to use material from the book (other than for review purposes), please contact permissions@hbgusa.com. Thank you for your support of the authors rights.

Little, Brown and Company

Hachette Book Group

1290 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10104

littlebrown.com

First ebook edition: October 2019

Voracious is an imprint of Little, Brown and Company, a division of Hachette Book Group, Inc.

The Voracious name and logo are trademarks of Hachette Book Group, Inc.

The publisher is not responsible for websites (or their content) that are not owned by the publisher.

The Hachette Speakers Bureau provides a wide range of authors for speaking events. To find out more, go to hachettespeakersbureau.com or call (866) 376-6591.

Photography credits: Connie Miller of CB Creatives. Other photography by page: Brian Samuels, (upper and bottom right images).

Styling credits: Christine Tobin except as noted; Catherine Smart, .

Prop styling by Brianna Coleman

ISBN 978-0-316-42304-5

E3-20191009-JV-NF-ORI

Rules are a mixed blessing They are useful in building a foundation of - photo 2
Rules are a mixed blessing They are useful in building a foundation of - photo 3
Rules are a mixed blessing They are useful in building a foundation of - photo 4

Rules are a mixed blessing. They are useful in building a foundation of knowledge, whether in music or cooking. But they also create boundaries that can dampen improvisation.

The New Rules is our attempt to do both, to create a communal starting point for a new way to cook (well, new to the classic American table) while also inspiring home cooks to abandon rigid culinary notions drawn from Americas European roots and ersatz adaptations of Chinese, Italian and Mexican cuisines.

A few examples. Water for stock. Putting the sweet back into savory. Blooming spices. Bitter and charred as flavors. Herbs as greens. Ginger as a vegetable. Dont stir polenta. Season early. And late. Cook pasta in its sauce, not water.

This is not a license to discard culinary history. Its an opportunity to learn from others and rethink what we do at the stove. These rules may be new to us but they are conventional wisdom for millions of home cooks around the world.

New Rules. Old Rules. It all comes down to the same thing. Fresh, bold dishes made with an enthusiasm for the joy of cooking.

Simplistic flavors and textures lack interest A balance of contrasting flavors - photo 5

Simplistic flavors and textures lack interest. A balance of contrasting flavors and textures allows each to shine without dominating.

Raw greens can be off-puttingly tough; massaging the leaves with kosher salt tenderizes them.

When root vegetables are cut, their cells are ruptured, releasing sugars and volatile hydrocarbons, the source of their sweetness and aromas. Grating ruptures the most cells, producing sweeter vegetables.

Slick and watery vegetables can be hard to flavor; dressings and seasonings slide right off. Salting them first draws out moisture, leaving behind firmer, drier vegetables to which seasonings can stick.

For full-flavored but still simple salads, add herbs by the cupful rather than as a delicate sprinkle.

Dumping everything in the pot at once creates a uniformity of texture and can overcook more tender ingredients. Stagger them based on how long they should cook.

Heating spices and seasonings in fat intensifies their flavors, drawing them into the liquid and allowing them to better permeate the dish.

For potatoes that are tender on the inside and crispy on the outside, we start them in the microwave.

Roasting cabbage and other sulfurous vegetables at high heat reduces their bitterness and gives them a subtle sweetness.

Sturdy greens like kale can be leathery and tough if not cooked long enough. But a gentle simmer gives them time to become tender, sweet and to meld with other ingredients.

For perfectly crisp and tender vegetables, we combine cooking techniques. Start by searing them in a hot pan to develop browning and flavor. Then add water and a tight-fitting lid to steam them until tender.

Reducing the amount of liquid used in sauces allows the flavors to concentrate and better coat the other ingredients.

For the creamiest, easiest polenta, all you need is an oven, a couple vigorous stirs and no endless whisking.

Use the natural starches in beans, lentils and grains to improve the texture of the finished dish.

Rethink chicken soup by making starchy rice the star while relegating chicken to the role of flavorful garnish.

Delicate herbs make the most impact when theyre kept fresh. This often means adding them last, as heat can dull their flavor.

Chill cooked rice, then toss it with oil before using it for stir-frying. Freshly cooked rice will other- wise turn soft or gluey in the pan.

Pair neutral ingredientssuch as lentils or grainswith brighter, sharper flavors for balance and impact.

Adding hearty seasonings to the cooking liquid for grains and beans infuses them with bolder flavor.

Improve the flavor of canned beans by heating them before seasoning. The heat makes the beans swell; as they cool and contract they better absorb other flavors.

A creamy sauce doesnt have to be made with cream. Grating corn kernels releases their milky pulp and starches to create the base of a rich sauce.

Dont throw pasta water down the drain. The starchy water is a great way to create sauces that coat and cling to the cooked noodles.

Use a slow simmer to transform supermarket tomatoes from bland to bold.

Cooking noodles in a seasoned liquid, rather than boiling them separately in water and finishing them with a sauce, is an easy way to build flavor.

Toasting dry pasta caramelizes some of the starches, producing nutty flavors similar to caramelized sugar.

Boiling pasta until just shy of al dente, then finishing it directly in the sauce (fortified with some of the starchy cooking water), allows the pasta to better absorb other flavors.

Processing the ingredients in a particular orderand only until grainy, not pureedproduces a dramatically better pesto with layers of texture and flavor.

Savory flavors are key to combatting the bland nature of noodles and pasta. Its why tomatoes, olives, anchovies, garlic and cheese are essential to Italian recipes, and mushrooms, fish sauce and soy sauce show up so often in Asian noodles.

Create silkier, thicker sauces by cooking pasta and noodles in less water than typically called for, concentrating the starches that leach out of the noodles and into the cooking water.

Some cheese-based sauces are notoriously difficult to make without clumping. Adding cornstarch to the mixture stabilizes the cheese as it melts, creating a silky-smooth sauce.

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