PLANTS TASTE BETTER
Delicious plant-based recipes, from root to fruit
RICHARD BUCKLEY
For Helen the reason for everything
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2018 Quarto Publishing Group plc
Text copyright Richard Buckley
First published in 2018 by Jacqui Small
an imprint of The Quarto Group.
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Publisher: Jacqui Small
Senior Commissioning Editor: Fritha Saunders
Managing Editor: Emma Heyworth-Dunn
Production: Maeve Healy
Designer: Tania Gomes
Photographer: Kim Lightbody
Editor: Claire Wedderburn-Maxwell
Digital edition: 978-1-91112-781-9
Hardcover edition: 978-1-91112-732-1
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
INTRODUCTION
cooking with plants
Weve all cooked plants before, be it boiling a carrot, baking a loaf of bread or brewing a cup of coffee. There is nothing special about it, but it does require care to produce the best results. Plants and fungi are amazing organisms and they make up the majority of the flavours in our diet. Think of any dish from a curry to the most complex Michelin-starred meal and I can guarantee that most of the flavours come from plants. I have spent 15 years studying plants as food, how they fit into our culture and how to get the most out of them. Over time I found many wonderful techniques and realized that I was producing the best flavours when I focused on the plants, not on the animals, or lack of.
This book is not a manual, it is a series of practical examples for cooking plants carefully and with skill at home, taking into consideration the raw ingredient itself, the craft traditions that surround it and the culinary principles of fine cookery. It is not necessary to cook every recipe or to cook every part of every plate of food, but I hope the idea that plants can be cooked with grace will permeate through everything you produce and will influence the way that you look at plants from that point onwards.
understanding plants
Take a carrot and hold it in your hand. Its a carrot, right? Yes, but before that it is a root vegetable and before that it is part of a plant. Broadly speaking, all plants are the same. They have roots in the ground, stems to connect and support the various parts, leaves to capture the energy from the sun, flowers to help them reproduce, and fruits and seeds to create more plants the same as themselves. There is infinite variety within this, but the structure remains the same.
When we talk of a vegetable, herb, fruit or seed we are really just talking about a part of a plant that, either through chance or cultivation, we find is well suited to our diet and culinary traditions. We eat plant parts that share similar characteristics. We only eat taproots that swell with sugars and starches to provide energy for the next year. We dont eat the spindly or woody roots of grass or hazel trees. We eat the leaves that are large and mild in flavour as salads, and those that are small and strongly flavoured as herbs. The seeds surrounded by fruits we call nuts, and those that come from pods we call beans. Those that are small and intense in flavour we call spices, and those that are high in starches we call grains.
The ingenuity and craft traditions that have emerged and evolved over the centuries in our treatment of plants are for me some of the fascinations and deep pleasures of cookery: from stone-grinding flour to fermenting cabbage, the connection of the cook to the ingredient, and through it the processes of the natural world, are a source of endless wonder. That said, these traditional processes tend to make use of the same characteristics of the plant part they are using and we tend to use the same techniques for each part of the plant. We roast nuts and seeds to release their intense flavours: there is little difference between roasting almonds and toasting cumin in terms of what we are trying to achieve and the methods we are using. We cook beans and grains with water to hydrate and modify the starches and make them more digestible; soaking and boiling beans is essentially the same process as combining water with flour and baking it to make bread you are hydrating and heating. We slice stems across their width to break the chewy fibres that give them strength as a plant and we cook leaves lightly to preserve their delicate colour and structure. An in-depth examination of each plant part and the best cooking techniques for them is well beyond the scope of this book; however, your cooking will improve instantly and for ever if you simply begin to think of the ingredients in front of you as parts of a plant with certain characteristics and the cooking technique merely as a way of enhancing and manipulating those characteristics to suit our appetites and those of our guests.
root to fruit
We waste so many ingredients in the kitchen. People who throw the core from a broccoli or cauliflower in the bin are losing one of the best parts of the vegetable. Carrot tops are lovely and grassy as a herb, and fennel fronds make the best garnish there is. Trying to apply the nose-to-tail philosophy popular in butchery doesnt quite work for plants as parts of some of them are poisonous, such as the leaves of rhubarb or the almond-like stones of apricots. Another issue is that we have developed the varieties of plants we eat over generations of selective breeding so there is very little wild about them. The shoots on the top of a celeriac (celery root) are a celery of sorts, and they are great in a stock, but true celery has been bred to be less woody and stringy. They are the same thing but with a different emphasis. The same can be said of beetroot (beet) tops: they can be cooked but have a much stronger iron flavour than the varieties that are bred for the leaf with a spindly little root at the bottom.
I believe that if a vegetable has multiple edible parts then it is a crime to simply throw a bit away because it is not the part you want. A great many recipes in here follow that philosophy implicitly. My cauliflower hearts dish (see ) was designed to use the whole cauliflower head, not because its trendy but because its the right thing to do. If you are lucky enough to get your cauliflower surrounded by the leaves you can even use these in place of the kale in the pure. If your beetroot (beets) have leaves on them, keep them and saut them as an extra garnish. If your fennel in the garden has bolted and gone to seed, wait for the fresh seeds to emerge and harvest them for the freshest, cleanest aniseed flavour youve ever tasted. Sprinkled over a poached pear, they are a revelation.