Frommers ShortCuts - Lucca, Pistoia and Northwestern Tuscany, Italy

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ISBN 9781118200018 (ebk); ISBN 9781118200025 (ebk); ISBN 9781118200032 (ebk)

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About the Authors

Donald Strachan (chapters 1 and 48) is a London-based writer and journalist. He has written about Italian travel for publications including the Sunday Telegraph, Independent on Sunday, Sydney Morning Herald, and Guardian, and is the author of Frommers Florence & Tuscany Day by Day and coauthor of Tuscany & Umbria With Your Family.

Stephen Keeling (chapters 1-3 and 9-12) grew up in England, lived briefly in Latvia, and spent 12 years as a financial journalist in Asia. Despite attempts to kick his gelato addiction, he has been to Italy many timesan incomparable knowledge of Tuscan Chinese restaurants formed while chaperoning a group of Vietnamese officials in 1994. Stephen is the coauthor of the award-winning Tuscany & Umbria with Your Family and currently lives in New York City.

Frommers Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations

Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality, value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state, and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star (highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).

In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from tourists. Throughout the book, look for:

special finds those places only insiders know about

fun facts details that make travelers more informed and their trips more fun

kids best bets for kids and advice for the whole family

special moments those experiences that memories are made of

overrated places or experiences not worth your time or money

insider tips great ways to save time and money

great values where to get the best deals

The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:

AE American Express DISC Discover V Visa

DC Diners Club MC MasterCard

The Best of Florence, Tuscany & Umbria

As the cradle of the Renaissance, Tuscany and Umbria boast some of the worlds most mesmerizing art and architecture, from the sublime work of Michelangelo, Botticelli, and Piero della Francesca, to gorgeous hill towns and the majestic palazzi of Florence. Yet the region isnt all medieval churches and galleries. This is a land of lush landscapes, the snowcapped Apennine mountains, and olive groves and vineyards that produce rich oils and justly famous wines. The regions famed sunshine makes Elbas beaches some of the most enticing in Europe, and its modern festivals in Spoleto and Perugia are giant outdoor parties.

Sightseeing The artistic treasures of Florence have been stupefying visitors for hundreds of years; its showstopping Duomo, Galleria dellAccademia, and Uffizi are world-class attractions. The picturesque streets of Siena and San Gimignano drip with medieval history, while Pisas Leaning Tower is a mind-blowing sight. Dont overlook Umbria, with the Basilica di San Francesco in Assisi and Galleria Nazionale in cosmopolitan Perugia. Farther south, soak up the exuberant facade of Orvietos cathedral.

Eating & Drinking Eating is a real joy in Tuscany and Umbria, whether you dine in one of the fine osterias of Florence, or just grab a crisp, fatty porchetta sandwich at an Umbrian farmers market. Try the olive oil hereits like sipping liquidized olives straight off the treeand sample the mouthwatering gelato in Florence, Baci chocolates in Perugia, and Pratos crunchy cantucci. Then theres the wine: not just the Chianti, but the rich Brunellos of Montalcino, the Sagrantinos of Montefalco, and subtle whites of Orvieto.

History Central Italys complex recorded history begins with the Etruscans, a heritage best explored today in the hill towns of Volterra and Chiusi, and at exceptional museums in Cortona and Orvieto. The big names of the Tuscan Middle Ages are commemorated at dedicated museums in Caprese (Michelangelo), Vinci (Leonardo da Vinci), and Florence (Dante). The island of Elba harbors sights associated with Napoleon Bonaparte, dating from his exile there in 1814.

Arts & Culture While the artistic delights of Renaissance Florence often dominate itineraries of the region, make time for the preserved medieval gems of Siena, especially its Gothic Palazzo Pubblico and Duomo. The genius of Giotto is on full display in the basilica at Assisi, while the legacy of Piero della Francesca is preserved in Arezzos San Francesco church and a fine museum in Sansepolcro. The regions contemporary culture is best represented by the eclectic Spoleto Festival and Perugias annual jazz fest.

The most Unforgettable Travel Experiences

A Crash Course in Painting, Sculpture & Architecture: Tuscany and Umbria are stuffed with the planets best art and architecturefrom frescoed chapels to giant civic paintings that date back 700 yearsand every turn of the corner reveals a new wonder in paint or stone. If youve ever had any curiosity about what it all means, youve just landed in the best place in the world to learn.

Hiking the Hills of Florence: The walk from Florence up to Fiesole is famous enough to earn a scene in the movie adaptation of E. M. Forsters A Room with a View (even if they cheated and took carriages). But dont neglect the hills of San Miniato and Bellosguardo that rise south of the Arno; the views over the city here are closer at hand, and the land is less developed.

Biking Luccas Walls: The elegant Republic of Lucca is still snuggled comfortably behind its 16th-century walls, ramparts so thick they were able to be converted into a narrow city parka tree-lined promenade running a 5km (3-mile) loop around the city rooftops. The bicycle is the preferred mode of transportation in Lucca, and youll be in good company as you tool under the shade past parents pushing strollers, businessmen walking their dogs, and old men at picnic tables in their 40th year of a never-ending card game. See .