Apichairuk - Sock Innovation: Knitting Techniques and Patterns for One-of-a-kind Socks

I am often asked where my inspiration for patterns comes from, and I have a difficult time answering. My favorite subject in school was mathematics, particularly theorems and proofsthe more abstract the better. I enjoyed the fact that grand theorems could arise from a few simple definitions and rules. A similar principle applies to knitting, where there are a limited number of manipulations that can be performed. Everything boils down to three actions: wrap yarn around needle, stick needle through loop, and pull yarn through loop. Depending on the order or the direction of these three maneuvers, infinite possibilities exist.

My love for socks began when I moved to California. The weather was too warm for my wool sweaters, and Kristi (my BKFFbest knitting friend forever) raved about socks so much I thought I would try them. I was hooked.

Socks are a perfect first step toward learning to design, as a wide variety of skills and considerations must be taken into account. Any technique that can be used in a sweater can be done on a smaller scale in a sock. They provide the perfect learning ground for knitting design.

When I think about sock design, I generally start with an abstract idea, a line I want to follow, or a texture. My inspiration doesnt come directly from mathematics; Im unlikely to knit a Fibonacci pattern, use cellular automata, or think of ways to incorporate crazy topological spaces. But my entire approach to life involves abstract thought rooted in mathematics. An elegant proof is one that is simple, involves a bit of insight that isnt considered obvious, and proves something that is greater than the sum of its parts. An inelegant proof is one that is done by brute force or is overly complex. I find exactly the same to be true of knitting. Taking simple components and combining them in a way that is greater than the sum of its parts is the essence of good design. The alignment, placements, visual lines, textures chosen, and how they coordinatethese are all subtle nuances that differentiate a great sock from a good sock.

I have biases and preferences that will become apparent. All the socks in this book are knitted from the top down, and most have ribbed cuffs, a flap heel with gusset, and stockinette wedge toes. I find it easier to design from the top down for several reasons. The pivotal part of sock design begins with the division for the heel flap and instep. Depending on the patterning chosen for the leg, this division can be complicated. Beginning with the cuff gives a sense of how the stitch pattern is progressing before having to decide exactly how to divide. With a toe-up sock, these decisions must be made in advance, and there is less room for correction. Im an impatient knitter, so I like to begin and make designs on-the-fly as I get a feel for the stitches on the needles.

Another advantage to top-down design is that the first few inches of the sock can be used as a gauge swatch and tried on different parts of the footthe ankle, the heel, and the foot. With a toe-up sock, you can only try on as far as you have knit. Ankle fit is often the trickiest part of sock fit, and it is best to try on the fit there sooner rather than later. Nothing is worse than knitting 70% of a sock and then discovering that it wont go past your heel!

I am biased toward ribbed cuffs, flap heels, and stockinette wedge toes in pattern writing because it is easy to swap any of these components for a different type, but the most difficult ones to calculate are ribbed cuffs and flap heels. Substituting a picot hem cuff or plain hemmed cuff for a ribbed cuff is much easier than the opposite. My preference for the stockinette wedge toe is based purely on comfort and simplicity. I find more interesting places in the sock to assert fancy details, and my wide toes appreciate the breathing room.

Each chapter builds on skills and terminology from previous chapters, so it may make sense to read straight through. There are useful tables scattered through the book:

The remaining chapters cover the major components of what I believe to be good design. While the information is targeted toward socks, many of the concepts can be applied to any garment. If you are not currently interested in designing socks from scratch, use the information for customizing existing patterns.

If you are impatient to begin a sock, skip directly to . Refer back to the earlier techniques as needed.