When to Go
Summer in Spain is hot, and temperatures can hit 100F (38C). Although air-conditioning is the norm in hotels and museums, walking and exploring can be uncomfortable, particularly in Andalusia. In August, major cities empty out, with Spaniards migrating to the beachexpect huge traffic jams August 1 and 31. Many small shops and some restaurants shut down; most museums remain open.
Winters are mild and rainy along the coasts and bitterly cold elsewhere. Snow is rare except in the mountains, where you can ski December through March in the Pyrenees and at resorts near Granada, Madrid, and Burgos.
May and October are optimal for visiting Spain, as its generally warm and dry. May has more hours of daylight; October is the harvest season, which is especially colorful in the wine regions.
Spring has spectacular fiestas, particularly Valencias Las Fallas in March and Sevilles Semana Santa (Holy Week), a week from mid-March to mid-April, followed by the Feria de Abril (April Fair), showcasing horses, bulls, and flamenco. April in southern Spain is warm but still cool enough to make sightseeing comfortable.
Getting Here
Most flights into Spain go to Madrid or Barcelona, though Mlaga in Andalusia is popular with carriers traveling from the United Kingdom and other European countries; Girona is a busy hub for the no-frills carriers bringing holiday travelers to nearby Barcelona or the beaches of the Costa Brava. You can also travel by ferry from the United Kingdom to northern Spain, by ferry or catamaran from Morocco to southern Spain, or on a cruise: Barcelona is Spains main port of call, but others include Mlaga, Cdiz, Gibraltar, Valencia, A Corua, and destinations in the Balearic Islands. From France or Portugal you can drive or take a bus.
Getting Around
Once in Spain, you can travel by bus, car, or train. Buses are often faster than local trains, and bus fares tend to be lower. Service is extensive, though less frequent on weekends.
For rail travel, the local-route RENFE trains are economical and run on convenient schedules; the AVE, Spains high-speed train, is wonderfully fastit can go from Madrid to Seville or to Barcelona in under three hours. TIP Rail passes like the Eurailpass must be purchased before you leave for Europe.
Large, chain car-rental companies all have branches in Spain, though the online outfit Pepe Car ( www.pepecar.com ) may have better deals. Its modus operandi: the earlier you book, the less you pay. In Spain, most vehicles have manual transmissions; if you order a compact, make sure it has air-conditioning. TIP If you dont want a stick shift, reserve well in advance and specify automatic transmission.
A few rules of the road: children under 12 may not ride in the front seat, and seat belts are mandatory for all passengers. TIP Follow speed limits. Rental cars are frequently targeted by police monitoring speeding vehicles, and speed cameras are common.
Restaurant Basics
Most restaurants in Spain dont serve breakfast ( desayuno ); for coffee and carbs, head to a bar or cafetera. Outside major hotels, where room rates often include morning buffets, breakfast in Spain is usually limited to coffee and toast or a roll. Lunch ( comida or almuerzo ) traditionally consists of an appetizer, a main course, and dessert, followed by coffee and perhaps a liqueur. Between lunch and dinner the best way to snack is to sample a variety of tapas (appetizers) at a bar. Dinner ( cena ) is somewhat lighter than lunch, with perhaps only one course. In addition to an la carte menu, most restaurants offer a daily fixed-price menu ( men del da ), including two courses, wine, and dessert at an attractive price. Its traditionally a lunch thing but is increasingly offered at dinner in popular tourist destinations.
Hotel Basics
There are many types of lodgings in Spain, from youth hostels (different from an hostal, which is a budget hotel) to boutique hotels and modern high-rises and various options in between. Among the most popular lodgings in Spain are the paradoresgovernment-run, upscale hotels, many of them in historic buildings or visit-worthy locations. Rates are reasonable, considering that most paradores have four- or five-star amenities, including a restaurant serving regional specialties.
Do I Have to Eat So Late?
Many of the misunderstandings for visitors to Spain concern mealtimes. The Spanish eat no earlier than 1:30 pm for lunch, preferably after 2 pm, and not before 9 pm for dinner. Dining out on the weekend can begin at 10 pm or even later. In areas with heavy tourist traffic, some restaurants open a bit earlier.
Siesta?
Dining is not the only part of Spanish life with a bizarre timetable. Outside major cities most shops shut in the afternoons from 2 to 5 pm, when shopkeepers go home to eat the main meal of the day and perhaps snooze for a while. Its best to work this into your plans on an if you cant beat them, join them basis, taking a quick siesta after lunch in preparation for a long night out on the town.