Kitchin Tom - Tom Kitchins fish & shellfish

Contents

Introduction

T he joy of eating freshly caught fish or shellfish straight from the sea is an experience like no other. A big plate of fresh langoustines, oysters, crab and mussels is the kind of dish I love to share. One of my favourite ways to entertain is to gather friends and family together and place a dish like this in the middle of the table as everyone helps themselves and gets stuck in, and I find theres always lots of laughter to go with the meal.

Some of my favourite food memories also come from fishing as a young boy. Like many families in the UK, I spent summer holidays discovering the Scottish coast with my family. I have many fond memories from this time and I especially remember the excitement of going mackerel fishing. I still get that buzz today when I go out fishing with my own children. To come across a school of mackerel and pull them up by the dozen is a truly rewarding feeling. My wife, Michaela, and I love creating foodie memories for our four young boys, and we especially treasure the journey of fishing, gutting and even barbecuing our catch, before eating it as fresh as it can possibly be. The flavour of the freshly caught fish just cant be beaten. We all enjoy it so much, weve even started taking the boys crab fishing, too. Our young ones just love catching the little green crabs you find in the rockpools and along the shore line, which makes delicious .

People who follow my cooking know that as much as simple pleasures give me a lot of joy, Im not scared to push the boundaries and Im always seeking out lesser-known produce or flavour combinations. In this book, I want to help people break the shackles of I only like salmon or I dont like fish with bones in it, and experiment with their own cooking, to discover new species, new dishes and new flavours.

As a chef, I am in a privileged position at the restaurant and people often ask me to cook for them off menu. We also welcome more and more pescatarian diners, who eat only fish and vegetables, but still want to enjoy the whole experience of our Tasting menu at The Kitchin. Its all about trust, I guess, but I absolutely love guiding and encouraging guests to try food they have never eaten before, taking them on a real journey. Fish and shellfish most definitely fall into this category, and I find it such a joy to experiment with these incredible ingredients every day.

At The Kitchin and The Scran & Scallie, we are blessed with outstanding fish and shellfish suppliers. The incredible lengths that many of our fishermen and fisherwomen go to in order to catch the amazing produce is something that I, as a chef, am eternally grateful for and respectful of. As with many things in life, its so important to know that we are fishing our seas in a sustainable and responsible manner, making sure the seas remain well stocked with fish for generations to come.

I often hear people say that they find it challenging to source particular fish or shellfish. Many of our supplies are in demand across the world and I know it can be frustrating, but things are certainly moving in the right direction. My best advice when it comes to sourcing is to visit your local fishmonger. I cant stress enough how important it is to create and build a relationship with your local fishmonger. Without customer support they wont survive and that would certainly mean we would have less access to many different species of fresh fish and shellfish.

The fishmonger plays a vital role in our society and often holds the key to accessing beautiful, fresh and local produce. I always find they are very willing to assist with choosing different species, pre-ordering if you have something specific in mind and also offering advice on preparations like filleting and gutting. I also find local fishmongers can often be of great assistance in inspiring their customers and helping to push the boundaries in their home cooking.

Many times, I have come across fishmongers who are great characters and very knowledgeable about the world of fish and shellfish. Get to know them, take on their recommendations and dont be shy in asking them to order in produce that is not widely available.

I appreciate that for many home cooks, the idea of working with fish and shellfish can seem like a messy job. If thats the case for you, I recommend you ask your fishmonger to gut and prepare the fish from whole, as this not only saves you time, but can also make the cooking process more enjoyable. If you dont mind getting your hands dirty, however, I would definitely encourage you to give the gutting and filleting a go. Its a very rewarding job and it gives you that pleasure of seeing the process through from start to finish. Not only that, but you will really get to learn about the produce and understand the different parts and different flavours.

When buying your fish, there are a few important things to look for, but remember the fresher the better. Be aware of the aroma freshwater fish shouldnt smell overly fishy, and if it does then its probably past its best; saltwater fish should smell briny. Whole fish should have shiny skin and scales with bright, shiny eyes; if the eyes are dulled then do not buy it. Whole fish should also have firm, taut flesh that springs back when pressed, and gills should be red, not brown.

When it comes to shellfish, all shellfish should be closed, or should close when gently tapped on a surface, and should be odourless. Lobsters, prawns and crabs should have a good colour and feel heavy for their size. Live crabs and lobsters should have rubber bands around their claws to prevent injury.

For me, fish or shellfish makes the perfect quick-and-easy mid-week meal, but I also nowadays find myself enjoying fish when my wife and I are entertaining, as it is so straightforward to bring together a meal that looks impressive, tastes delicious and is ideal for sharing.

I hope this book inspires some everyday dishes, as well as those more celebratory meals that will push you out of your comfort zone to try something new and appreciate how incredibly rewarding it can be. In this recipe collection, I have tried not only to include different variations of extracting flavours from fish and shellfish, but also to showcase different preparation and cooking methods, from roasting to steaming and poaching. Catching, preparing and cooking fish and shellfish has brought me a lot of enjoyment over the years, and I am incredibly passionate about sharing my love for this beautiful produce in the hope that you, too, can continue to enjoy new flavours and experiences.