Lonely Planet Goa & Mumbai

Goa stands out in India for its Portuguese colonial architecture and heritage, while Mumbai boasts the finest Victorian-era colonial architecture in India. The Portuguese arrived in Goa in 1510, lured by the exotic East and the promise of lucrative spice routes, before being booted out in 1961. Their indelible mark is still evident in the states baroque architecture, whitewashed churches, crumbling forts, colourful Catholic ceremonies, mournful fado music and the stunning cathedrals of Old Goa.

By Paul Harding, Writer

After travelling overland from Delhi through central India and Mumbai to Goa back in the 90s, the beaches, all-night parties and laid-back tropical vibe came as a blissful surprise. Over many return visits a lot of things have changed, but the essence of Goa remains the same. I love the omnipresence of the beach, cruising through impossibly green countryside on two wheels, and the evening ritual of watching the sun melt into the Arabian Sea with a cold beer and a fish thali. And the Goan people hard-working, optimistic, witty, quick with a smile and always happy to chat.

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Slung along the banks of the broad Mandovi River, is an easygoing city with the delightful old Portuguese districts of Fontainhas and Sao Tom the perfect setting for a lazy afternoon of wandering. Sip firewater feni with locals in a hole-in-the-wall bar, gamble the night away on a floating luxury casino, clamber up to the wedding-cake-white Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception or poke about in boutiques and book shops. Youll probably find youre not missing the beach one bit.