Lonely Planet Munich, Bavaria & The Black Forest 6
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Munich, Bavaria & the Black Forest
Hilltop castles and green energy, beer halls and luxury cars, Alps and edgy art southern Germany blends thigh-slapping tradition with clear-headed modernity like nowhere else on earth.
Bavaria is definitely a place for those who prefer their air fresh rather than freshened. Though the Alps only tickle Germanys underbelly, locals know how to get the most out of their peaks, stringing cable cars up the vertical reality of the Alps; marking out entire atlases of cycling, hiking and cross-country skiing trails; even running a train up the inside of the Zugspitze, Germanys highest mountain. Yet all this is just a short ride from the urban joie de vivre of Munich, a sassy, sophisticated and self-confident city with a nonchalant, slightly Mediterranean feel.
Southern Germany is famed for its castles, from medieval fortresses to the 19th-century follies commissioned by Bavarias most celebrated king, Ludwig II. Mad about Versailles (and some claim just plain mad) he single-handedly launched Bavarias tourist industry and even stirred Walt Disney with his story-book Schloss Neuschwanstein. You could spend a month zigzagging between sugary palaces, stuccoed baroque residences, wind-cracked Gothic ruins and vista-rich chateaux. Palace fatigue? Then retreat to a cosy tavern and raise a tankard to this marvellous corner of Europe.
If youre in search of strapping Alpine types in Lederhosen, buxom wenches juggling platters of pork, tipsy oompah bands and lanes of Hnsel-and-Gretel cottages, youll be pleased to hear that Germanys south keeps all its clichd promises. Nowhere is this truer than on the Romantic Road, a 350km route from Wrzburg to the Alps stringing centuries of quaint walled towns along a ribbon of history and tweeness. And if you think the folksy fuss is just for the tourists youd be wrong many Bavarians keep a pair of Lederhosen or a Dirndl in their closets for special occasions.
The Germans have a word for it Gemtlich-keit that untranslatable blend of cosiness, well-being and a laid-back attitude. Nowhere does this mood permeate deeper than in the prosperous south where it awaits you in a region of fairy-lit beer gardens, Alpine views, medieval towns and rousing hilltop castles. But theres another facet to Gemtlichkeit: its also a marble-smooth autobahn of luxury cars speeding to gourmet restaurants and chic Alpine spas, Munichs high-brow cultural scene robed in black, and cappuccinos at dawn on intercity expresses. The two southern Germanys coexist side-by-side, an incongruous mix but reassuringly predictable.
By Marc Di Duca, Writer
Is it the sap-scented hills and trails in forests Black and Bavarian, the Franconian beer and dark tourism of Nuremberg or the emotions stirred by the tragic Ludwig II story? Or is it a mildly envious admiration for southern Germanys knack of producing cars that work, its galleries packed with modern art or the awe I feel for the German intellect as I face yet another devilishly complex Deutsche Bahn ticket machine (perhaps not)? I suppose its all the above and heaps more that has me returning time and again to this quirky yet level-headed corner of Europe.
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