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Evans - The Gourmet Farmer Deli Book: Dairy

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The Gourmet Farmer Deli Book: Dairy: summary, description and annotation

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Gourmet Farmer Matthew Evans and producers Nick Haddow and Ross OMeara share their favourite deli recipes. Enjoy food as it used to taste.

Why would you go to the effort of make your own cheese, clotted cream or yoghurt? Its quite simple, really - because it tastes better.

This collection of recipes celebrates the artisan process in making items youd typically find in your local deli and provides simple, delicious recipes where those ingredients are the stars of simple, flavoursome dishes.

From a classic butter cake to baked feta with preserved tomato, olives and oregano and samosas, The Gourmet Farmer Deli Book: Dairy celebrates the way we used to cook and the way food used to taste.

Recipes include: Vegetable bisteeya, clotted cream fudge, ricotta cheese and paneer, smoked ricotta, shanklish and more.

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The Gourmet Farmer Deli Book Dairy - photo 4

The Gourmet Farmer Deli Book Dairy - photo 5


The Gourmet Farmer Deli Book Dairy - photo 6
THERE ARE HUNDREDS OF REASONS NOT TO GO TO THE EFFORT OF MAKING YOUR OWN - photo 7
THERE ARE HUNDREDS OF REASONS NOT TO GO TO THE EFFORT OF MAKING YOUR OWN - photo 8

THERE ARE HUNDREDS OF REASONS NOT TO GO TO THE EFFORT OF MAKING YOUR OWN - photo 9
THERE ARE HUNDREDS OF REASONS NOT TO GO TO THE EFFORT OF MAKING YOUR OWN - photo 10

THERE ARE HUNDREDS OF REASONS NOT TO GO TO THE EFFORT OF MAKING YOUR OWN CHEESE, BUTTER OR YOGHURT AND ONLY ONE COMPELLING ARGUMENT TO DO IT: FLAVOUR.

Nowhere in the world of food has anything strayed so far off track as dairy products. A combination of excessive regulation, demands by supermarkets leading to mass production and the dumbing down of consumers has left us with shopping trolleys full of sickly sweet yoghurt, cream thickened with gums, butter with no flavour, cheese that never ripens and ricotta made from milk powder. How on Earth did we let this happen?

It can be startling how good homemade dairy produce can be when the true flavour of the milk is allowed to take centre stage. Sourcing good milk to start with is essential. It seems wrong to go to the trouble of making your own cheese or yoghurt from bog-standard supermarket milk. If you cant befriend a local dairy farmer to access your milk (remember, there are loads of smallholders who have a house cow or goat), then buy unhomogenised milk, ideally from one farm. We are lucky in Australia that there are more and more options available for sourcing this kind of milk.

Many of the processes in this chapter are quite simple, and really only just involve steering what happens if you let nature take its course. Hygiene is of paramount importance when making fresh dairy products, as most of the time what you are trying to do is create a perfect environment for good bacteria. Because the bad bugs are equally happy breeding in these conditions, you need to take steps to try and keep them out. Before making any of the recipes, make sure you wash, sterilise () and dry all of your equipment and your work space.

STERILISING BOTTLES For all preserving you need to have your bottles jars and - photo 11
STERILISING BOTTLES For all preserving you need to have your bottles jars and - photo 12

STERILISING BOTTLES For all preserving you need to have your bottles jars and - photo 13

STERILISING BOTTLES

For all preserving you need to have your bottles, jars and other equipment free of bacteria or moulds or anything that could prove harmful if allowed to stay in the jar and affect the food. All jars and lids should be spanking clean AND sterile.

A dishwasher will not only clean the jars and lids, but the heat of the water will sterilise them. If youre hand washing jars, or using jars that have been stored for a while, youll need to sterilise them using boiling water or a hot oven. Many people take the clean jars and place in cold water then bring to the boil. (The risk of jars shattering comes when there is a great change in temperature; hence the cool jars in cool water to start.) The difficult thing is removing the hot jars from the water and keeping them sterile without dropping them, though you can buy special tongs for this purpose.

Clean jars can also be put into a cool oven and heated to 100C (200F). You need to be careful when you heat the lids because if you heat them much past 100C the rubber seals can melt or harden. The simplest sterilising method is the microwave; you can kill bacteria and spores by placing empty, clean and dry jars in the microwave for about 30 seconds per jar. However, this wont work for metal lids.

There are commercially available chemical sterilisers, often called sanitisers, which kill bugs too, and these are useful for sterilising lids, as well as the tools used for making salami or cheese. Theyre often found in the baby section of supermarkets. We try to avoid chemicals, so tend to use a big pot of boiling water to sterilise most utensils, and a mix of dishwasher and boiling water for sterilising jars and their lids. Remember, when you go to fill the jars, the heat of the jar should be about the same as the heat of the ingredient; so hot liquids should go into hot jars, cold liquids into cold (again, to avoid the risk of the glass shattering).

Okay lets be honest who thinks importing butter from France or Denmark is - photo 14

Okay lets be honest who thinks importing butter from France or Denmark is - photo 15
Okay lets be honest who thinks importing butter from France or Denmark is - photo 16


Okay, lets be honest who thinks importing butter from France or Denmark is taking things a step too far? Sure, it might be justified when you consider that so much of the locally made commercial stuff is, at best, greasy and bland, and at worst, old and rancid, but come on! Luckily, there are a bunch of rogue butter makers in Australia now who are selling products that outshine top-shelf imported butter.

Australian butter should taste better, too. European butter is pale in comparison because it comes from cows that are largely grain-fed. Australian cows are almost exclusively raised on grass and the beta-carotene is passed into the milk and then the butter, giving it a yellow colour.

And while we are on a rant, have you looked at the ingredients label of your average supermarket cream lately? When did cream stop containing just cream and start needing gums, thickeners, sweeteners, acidity regulators and preservatives? The answer is, it doesnt. Supermarkets and huge manufacturers have led consumers down this path. We think its now time to take a different path.

The Gourmet Farmer Deli Book Dairy - photo 17
Makes about 400 g 14 oz As far as old-fashioned comfort food go - photo 18
Makes about 400 g 14 oz As far as old-fashioned comfort food goes clotted - photo 19
Makes about 400 g 14 oz As far as old-fashioned comfort food goes clotted - photo 20

Makes about 400 g 14 oz As far as old-fashioned comfort food goes clotted - photo 21

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