CHIANTI CLASSICO
The Search for Tuscanys Noblest Wine
Bill Nesto, MW, and Frances Di Savino
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESS
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University of California Press
Oakland, California
2016 by William R. Nesto and Frances Di Savino
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Nesto, Bill, 1951 author. | Di Savino, Frances, 1960 author.
Title: Chianti Classico : the search for Tuscanys noblest wine / Bill Nesto, MW, and Frances Di Savino.
Description: Oakland, California : University of California Press, [2016] | Includes bibliographical references and index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2016015932 (print) | LCCN 2016017542 (ebook) | ISBN 9780520284425 (cloth : alk. paper) | ISBN 9780520965539 (Epub)
Subjects: LCSH : Chianti wine. | Chianti (Italy)History.
Classification: LCC TP 559.I8 N 469 2016 (print) | LCC TP 559.I8 (ebook) | DDC 641.2/209455dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2016015932
Manufactured in the United States of America
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With this work
we honor our mothers,
Antoinette Sirugo Nesto
and
Geraldine Saporito Di Savino,
for their love, wisdom, and fortitude.
We dedicate this story
to the winegrowers of Chianti
past, present, and future
for daring to be true.
As soon as the climb ends and the road levels off, the horizon widens and there you see the first harsh hilltops of Chiantia land which remains forever Etruscan and medieval. The city and the present already have grown faint; the solitude of the forests and the fields fills me and blurs those boundaries which had appeared so clear. My renewal always begins here.
MARIA BIANCA VIVIANI DELLA ROBBIA, FATTORIA NEL CHIANTI (TRANSLATION BY FRANCES DI SAVINO)
CONTENTS
ILLUSTRATIONS
MAPS
FIGURES
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
It is with heartfelt gratitude and respect that we acknowledge the individuals and institutions that have offered us guidance and assistance in the creation of this work. We are grateful to the archivists at the State Archives and Libraries of Florence and Siena, to Davide Fiorino at the Accademia dei Georgofili in Florence, and to Dawn Webster at Kiplin Hall in North Yorkshire, England, for their patience and selfless dedication to the cause of historical truth. We thank the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico and its member producers for organizing our tastings at the consortiums headquarters and for providing us with important technical information, especially Giuseppe Liberatore, Michele Cassano, and Silvia Fiorentini. Our quest to tell the story of Chianti Classico would not have been possible without the support and commitment of our stellar team at University of California PressKate Marshall, Dore Brown, and Zuha Khanand our copy editor, Juliana Froggatt. Many thanks to our initial acquisitions editor, Blake Edgar, for helping to bring this work to life. We appreciate the friendship and knowledge that Daniele Rosellini and Nadia Riguccini shared with us during our many sojourns in Tuscany. We are grateful to our family and friends for their love, patience, and encouragement. Our profound thanks to our mre and belle-mre, Geri Di Savino, whose pencil touched every word of this text, and to our frre and beau-frre, Sam Di Savino, who held the fort in Boston while we climbed the hills in Chianti. Herein lies the fruit of all their efforts.
PREFACE
Fresh from our odyssey in Sicily, recounted in The World of Sicilian Wine, we embarked in 2014 on a new adventureto tell the story of the ancient land named Chianti and the modern wine zone known as Chianti Classico. Located in the heart of Tuscany, Chianti in many respects is a world away from Sicily. Yet both have histories woven with conflict and complexity, despite the simplicity of their majestic landscapes. The similarities do not end there. In the nineteenth century, Italys two most famous and respected wines were Sicilys Marsala and Tuscanys Chianti. Like Marsala, Chianti became known worldwide in the twentieth century, propelled by the millions of Italian immigrants who brought their culture with them to the New World. The name Chianti was synonymous with the straw-covered flasks that graced virtually every Italian restaurant table until the 1970s. Bill vividly remembers his father (who had emigrated from Apulia) storing a large flask of Chianti under the kitchen sink. Every evening Dr. Nesto brought it to the familys dining table to pour a small glassful to savor with his dinner. Chianti was also the first region in Italy that Bill visited during his studies for the Master of Wine examination. He was made an honorary member of the Lega del Chianti (League of Chianti) in 1999. Frans introduction to Chianti was in the 1980s when she studied for a year at the University of Florence and lived with the Anichini, one of the oldest families of viticoltori (winegrowers) in Chianti, who have farmed Fattoria Le Corti (in the high hills of Greve between Ruffoli and Lamole) since 1424.
Our first adventure on the wine road together began in Castellina in Chianti in 2003. As we traveled Chiantis rural roads, we discovered a shared love of this landits countryside and its culture. From that year on, we returned every September in time for the vendemmia (harvest). Bill gave a winemaking course to a small group of American wine students, and Fran introduced the budding winemakers to the culture and history of Tuscany. Then we began our Sicilian journey in 2008. In telling the story of Sicily, we came to understand yet another truth it shares with Chianti. Like Sicily, Chianti as a name is universally known, though as a place it is essentially unknown and misunderstood. In telling the story of Chianti, we knew from the beginning that it was essential to explain its origin and evolution as both a place and a wine region. The expansion of the Chianti wine zone to encompass most of Tuscany in the early 1930s effectively blurred the distinction between the original Chianti region (from then on known as Chianti Classico) and the external Chianti region (with the exclusive right to use the name Chianti for its wine), consisting of multiple subzones. We have met many a Tuscan, Italian, and American who are unaware of the differences between Chianti Classico and external Chianti. Remarkably, Chianti was among the first legal appellations of origin for wine in the world. The publication of this book will coincide with the three hundredth anniversary of that historic (but long forgotten) milestone of 1716.