Hardy - 21st Century Kinkycrafts

21ST CENTURY
KINKYCRAFTS

sedited by Janet W. Hardy

greenery press

Entire contents ? 2005 by Janet W. Hardy.

First edition 1995 by Greenery Press. Second edition 1998 by Greenery Press

All rights reserved. Except for brief passages quoted in newspaper, magazine, radio, television or Internet reviews, no part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying or recording or by information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the Publisher.

Published in the United States by Greenery Press. Distributed by SCB Distributors, Gardena, CA.

ISBN 1-890159-58-1.

FUNDAMENTALS:
MAKING CHASTITY BELTS
AND OTHER ARMOR

Note: This is an artist's conception of one possible chastity belt style, and has not been constructed in real life. Please use it for inspiration only.

Anachronistic perverts have successfully used this method to create everything from form-fitting heavy plastic-reinforced judo robes for light fighting to decent-looking samurai armor impervious to a full-powered swing from a baseball bat... but it adapts well to chastity belts, spine protectors and other Kinkycrafts as well.

1. Create your own design or copy someone else's. Then cut it out of stiff cardboard. See if the basic idea seems sound. Put plenty of time into designing and custom-fitting in this phase. It will pay off later.

2. Trace your design onto suitable leather, metal (street signs are made of light, easily shaped aluminum) or strong plastic, such as the heavy blue plastic of which water barrels are made. You might want to start with something very light and work up to the stronger stuff as your skills improve. Shaped aluminum riveted to black leather (you make the leather black with dye from a leather shop) gives a nice look.

3. Cut out the design with tools suitable for working the particular material, such as a jigsaw.

4. If necessary, shape the material. If you are using steel or heavy aluminum, you will need a very heavy vise or an anvil, maybe a heat source, a heavy ballpeen hammer, and a lot of patience. Plastic can be shaped in an oven.

Don't set it on fire, and wear something heatproof while bending it around something such as a heavy glass bottle to give it any necessary curves. Grind down any rough edges and burrs with a grinding wheel and metal brush.

5. Join the pieces together with welds, rivets, and/or leather or chain bindings.

Contributed by Philip the Foole

FUNDAMENTALS:
BASIC ROPE KIT

Rope is a wonderful bondage tool. No other SM toy offers such versatility and, as one professional mistress puts it, one size fits all.

Materials: 100' cotton rope
lingerie bag

Tools: needle and thread
laundry marker
scissors

Time: two hours plus machine washing and drying time

Cost: under $20

Good general purpose bondage rope is soft and flexible, with a slight outer roughness to help hold knots. A 3/16" thickness seems to work best. 100% cotton rope, without plastic or wire cores, is recommended. Such rope is widely available, readily cleaned and inexpensive look for 100% cotton clothesline in hardware stores, or magicians rope in magic stores. Cotton rope is not recommended for suspension bondage, but for ordinary people tying it works great.

You can make a good starter set of bondage ropes from a 100' rope. Wash it with fabric softener. (Placing it in a lingerie bag will prevent jamming the washing machine.) Once youve washed and dried your new rope, begin cutting it. Ropes about 6' long, or multiples of 6', work well for general use. Therefore, take the 100' length of rope, find its midpoint, and cut it in two. Take each of the halves and cut it in half, then cut each of those in half again. You now have four shorter lengths of rope, each about 12' long. In my experience, the is the most useful length for general purposes, particularly regarding tying hands.

Now take the other 50' length and cut it in half; repeat until you have eight lengths of rope each about 6' long. Use thread to sew each ropes ends to prevent unsightly unraveling. (This is called whip-stitching.)

A good way to tell the different lengths apart is to use a different color of thread for each different length. For example, you might use blue thread on 6' lengths and red thread on 12' lengths. Because much bondage starts at a ropes midpoint, its also handy to use a bit of thread to mark that. Another approach is to use a laundry marker to make one circle around each end of a 6' rope and two circles around each end of a 12' rope. (Mark the midpoint, too.)

One easy way to store individual lengths is to fold it in half two or three times and finish by knotting the folds in a simple overhand knot. The lingerie bag also makes a good container for holding your rope. Happy tying!

contributed by Jay Wiseman, author of SM 101: A Realistic
Introduction and Jay Wiseman's Erotic Bondage Handbook.
Jay can be contacted c/o Greenery Press, or at jaywiseman@yahoo.com.

FUNDAMENTALS:
MOUNTING EQUIPMENT
ON WALLS

No matter how well-built a piece of bondage equipment may be, it is worse than useless if a firm yank or a sturdily built bottom can send it crashing down in a shower of wallboard or plaster.

Fortunately, mounting an eye-bolt or piece of equipment is not difficult if youre willing to take the time (and make some basic equipment purchases) to do it properly.

Most walls and ceilings fall into one of three categories: wallboard (a relatively soft sheet that is nailed in place over underlying studs), plaster, or masonry (brick or concrete). If youre mounting something onto wallboard or plaster, it becomes essential that you attach it firmly into the center of the underlying studs. Neither wallboard nor plaster, nor the lath or gypsumboard that serves as a foundation for plaster, is strong enough to support bondage.

Figure 1 portrays the underlying structure of a wallboard wall. The individual vertical boards, which are called two-by-fours but are actually about 15/8 wide, are called studs. (If theyre in a ceiling, theyre called joists dont ask why.) They are almost always 16 apart, measured from the center of one stud to the center of the next.

A crucial piece of equipment is called a stud finder. It pays to buy a good one the Zircon Studsensor, at $25 or so, is recommended. This electronic gadget, when run along a wall, signals with a series of flashing lights the beginning and end of a studs location. When you first get your stud finder, its a good idea to practice with it on a wall where you know the location of the studs (often garage walls are unfinished so you can see exactly where the wallboard is nailed to the studs).

If you think youve found a stud, take the following steps. First, check 16" away, and see if theres another stud there. If there is, youve probably found one. Next, make a test hole either by driving in a small nail, or by making a hole with the smallest bit on your power drill.