Fodors Essential India

India is huge, and it would take months, or even years, to do a full-fledged tour of the country. Weve narrowed this book down to what we consider the essential India, but even still, unless you have a really long vacation, you wont have time to see all the highlights. Keep in mind, too, that the best way to appreciate India is not to rushin fact, the country tends to run in such a fashion that its next to impossible to rush while youre here.

To further help you make the most of your time, Indias Golden Triangle, spanning roughly 240 km (150 miles) on each of its three sides, links Mughal and Rajput sites in Delhi, Jaipur, and Agra. Its the most well-traveled route in India, and for good reason: for many tourists, the sites here are India. What you seethe Taj Mahal, the impressive palace-fort and Islamic monuments in Old Delhi, and the timeless Pink City fairy tale that is Jaipurare some of the most splendid edifices that India has to offer. Although you could visit most of these sights in a week, or even less, try not to make it a hurried affair if you can. Between the heat and the sometimes tricky dealings of getting around, traveling in India is often more exhausting than elsewhere, and an overpacked day rarely makes for a satisfying visit.

34 days

Fly into Delhi to explore the old and new capitals. Hit the ground running with some light touring on the first day, perhaps doing some shopping or taking in the lovely, pre-Mughal Lodi Gardens. Over the next two days, visit Old Delhis major Mughal sites, including the Red Fort, Jama Masjid, and Chandni Chowk, now a hodgepodge market. Also highly worth a visit: the Mughal Humayuns tomb and the imperial buildings of the Raj-era. Pay a visit to the excellent collections at the National Museum as well, but make sure to also save time for just getting acquainted with Delhi weather, crowds, and foodthe higher-end restaurants and shops in South Delhi are worth the trip.

Option: If you prefer, head right out to Agra on your second day, leaving time to explore Delhi a little more afterward.

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Set out early for Jaipur (its about six hours by train or car; the flight is an hour, but factor in airport time). Alternatively, take an extra day and make an overnight stop at the Neemrama Fort Palace, built in the 15th century and now a luxury hotel about midway between Delhi and Jaipur. Once in Jaipur, head out to explore the citys unforgettable bazaars and monuments to see why its called the Pink City. Set aside a half day to explore the Amber (Amer) Fort and Palace, just north of the city limits. Then head back to Delhi.

Side Trips: If you drive to Jaipur and have the time and desire, add in a few days for a side trip or two. About 160 km (100 miles) south of Jaipur is Ranthambhore National Park, the most likely place in India to see a tiger or other large cat outside of captivity. If youre inclined to explore more of Rajasthan, the Land of Princes, head farther afield to either Udaipur, where the sprawling City Palace and Lake Palace seem taken from a fairy-tale book, or the Blue City of Jodhpur, the site of the magnificent eight-gated Mehrangarh Fort, built in the 15th century.

Option: Skip Jaipur and go straight to Udaipur: there is more than enough in this magical city to keep you occupied for several days, and there are several spectacular side trips to places like the Jain Temple at Ranakpur.

23 days

From Delhi, travel by road or take the train to Agra. If youre driving, make a stop during the two- to three-hour trip to visit the splendid royal remnants of the ancient Mughal capital Fatehpur Sikri (if you take the train to Agra, rent a car and driver and backtrack to Fatehpur Sikri). The fast train takes about three hours, but isnt at the most convenient times. Plan to stay overnight in Agra so you can fully appreciate the Taj Mahal and Agras other sites, the impressive Agra Fort and the tomb of Etmad-ud-Daulah (the so-called Baby Taj). Then make your way back to Delhi.

TIP If this is your first time in India, it may seem like a good idea to rent a car and drive it yourself, but it isnt. Indias traffic is fierce and should only be tackled by seasoned drivers familiar with Indian roads and traffic conditions. Hire a car and driver, which costs only a little more than renting a car by itself.

Delhi is one of the most expensive places to stay in India. In the high season, Agra and Jaipur are a close second. These destinations are among the most popular tourist spots in India, so hotels book up quickly. If you have your heart set on a specific hotel, book early. Northern India is also a popular circuit for guided tours. If you like the comfort of a knowledgeable guide and the structure of a set plan, consider a package tour.

Transportation: If getting there is half the fun in your mind, take a train. Although you give up some flexibility with a train, the countryside views are at least partial compensation, as is being able to avoid the loud, manic Indian driving style. If time is limited and you want to have as much freedom as possible with your route, then a car and driver is the better option.