Dedicated to the late great Antonio Carluccio.
The world lost a good man and I lost a good friend.
Rest in peace.
Publishing director: Sarah Lavelle
Commissioning editor: Cline Hughes
Project editor: Amy Christian
Creative director: Helen Lewis
Art direction and design: Smith & Gilmour
Photography: Peter Cassidy
Food preparation and styling: James Martin, Sam Head and Chris Start
Props stylist: Rebecca Newport
Home economists: Sam Head and Emma Marsden
Production: Tom Moore and Vincent Smith First published in 2018 by Quadrille, an imprint of Hardie Grant Publishing
Quadrille, 5254 Southwark Street, London, SE1 1UN quadrille.com Text 2018 James Martin Photography 2018 Peter Cassidy Design and layout 2018 Quadrille Publishing The rights of the author have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, electrostatic, magnetic tape, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission in writing of the publisher. Cataloguing in Publication Data: a catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
CONTENTS So why America? What can Americans teach us when it comes to food? Sure, everyone thinks of Italy and France and now Japan as culinary centres, but America, really? You would be wrong, very wrong, to think that America comes way down the pecking order when it comes to the quality of their food.
CONTENTS So why America? What can Americans teach us when it comes to food? Sure, everyone thinks of Italy and France and now Japan as culinary centres, but America, really? You would be wrong, very wrong, to think that America comes way down the pecking order when it comes to the quality of their food.
Forget pretzels and doughnuts, this place has so much more to offer. I set off on my journey to show you how good this place is and it didnt disappoint. With a country so vast, it was difficult to know where to start, let alone which route to take. As the team and I sat in the UK looking at a large map of the country, I had several places in mind some that I had been to before, and some that I had never visited. With a few pins in the East coast and a few in the West, we set off on the trip, topping and tailing with visits to chefs and places Id been before. On the West coast, top of the list was The French Laundry, run by Thomas Keller, the only US chef to hold two 3-star restaurants and in whose restaurant I ate one of the greatest meals I have ever had.
I also called Wolfgang Puck (Mr Los Angeles), probably the most famous chef in the US, asking if he would be a part of the trip. Twenty-three weeks later we were in Beverly Hills being cooked for by him and his team. Six weeks later, we hit the East coast to meet two more masters of their craft. Daniel Boulud and ric Ripert are giants of the New York food scene. Both have Michelin stars coming out of their ears and both have restaurants that are regularly in the Top 10 lists around the world. I knew these places would be great, and they didnt let us down, but along the road we also found many new places that surprised me.
Take the Single Thread in Sonoma, run by husband-and-wife team Kyle and Katina Connaughton, fast becoming the most talked-about eatery in California, if not the whole of the US. Congrats go out to them as they have just been awarded two Michelin stars, only a few months after opening. They have one of the most beautiful dining rooms I have ever been in its a must if you go to the US. But it was Middle America that surprised me the most in so many ways. The people were amazing and so friendly, the produce so diverse and the countryside stunning. It was not all cowboys and pick-up trucks (although in Dallas cowboy boots are a must!).
Its the food and drink I will remember. For some of our crew, take Toppy the cameraman, its the drink hell remember more than anything New Orleans took its toll on him. And Matt, the soundman, now knows never to eat fresh Szechuan peppercorns in a Santa Cruz market. It was the places that we went some of them off piste from the route we had marked on our map back home that made the trip so special. The markets and food shops were amazing. The produce grown along the roadside didnt disappoint.
The smells along the coast of sea air and strawberry fields coupled with the artichoke farms of Santa Cruz. Some of the best wine in the world in the vineyards of Napa and Sonoma. Plus who would have thought that Tabasco came from an island of salt? Angelos had the best BBQ in the US and a trip to the massive Billy Bobs is a must, to watch a bit of armadillo racing after a quick line dance. Forget politics its the people that make America great. They couldnt have been nicer, couldnt have been more friendly and the produce couldnt have been better to cook with. For that, America, I want to thank you.
Thank you for one of the best trips of my life and for allowing me (I hope) to help to change peoples perception of American food. I came back to the UK thinking sure, America has some rubbish places and, my God, some odd things to eat, but it does also have some of the best food in the world. I really think so. And if you make the trip following the same rule that I did never to eat anything thats bigger than your head you will come back only a few pounds heavier than when you left and with a view of their food which will change you forever. The crews perception of American food changed completely in just the six weeks we were there. My director turned to me while taking his bag off the carousel at Heathrow and said Thanks Jay, I loved it.
Six weeks ago I thought the best food in America was at Hooters, so thanks. There you go compliments indeed.
EGGS BENEDICT
Brunch doesnt get much more American than this muffins topped with Canadian bacon, poached egg and hollandaise. This classic dish is said to have originated at Delmonicos in lower Manhattan, where it was made for a Mr Benedict, a retired Wall Street stockbroker.
SERVES 4
4 large eggs 1 teaspoon olive oil 2 English muffins, halved 200g (7 oz) spinach, washed 8 slices cooked Canadian bacon or ham For the hollandaise sauce 1 large egg yolk 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar 300g (1 cups) clarified butter sea salt and freshly ground black pepper To serve 1 teaspoon freshly chopped chives Fill a bowl with water and a handful of ice cubes. Next, pour enough water into a large saucepan so its about a third of the way up the side and bring to the boil.