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FIRST, THANKS GO TO MY WIFE AND PARTNER, DONNA. Without her images, my books would be lesser by more than half, as we both work hard to convey information through the images rather than create highly stylized food photography. I like pretty food, and food should look enticing, but my first impulse is to show you what food can and should look like in your kitchen, and Donna conveys exactly this. Ive cooked all the dishes in this book at home and Donna has photographed them here as well.
My chief recipe tester, over the course of many years and many books, is Marlene Newell, who runs the site cookskorner.com. Sticklers for detail and precision, she and her team of cooks ensure that all the recipes make sense and work. I cant imagine doing a book without her.
Karen Wise is the copy editor of this book; she is true to her name and copyedits most everything I write.
Michael Sand, an executive editor at Little, Brown, is responsible for bringing this series into being, and for this and his sage counsel, I am grateful. As I am for the whole Little, Brown team that labors on my behalf: Deborah Jacobs, Cathy Gruhn, Meghan Deans, and their staffs as well.
Im thrilled to be working with David and Joleen Hughes, of Level, who have determined the entire look and feel of this book, from colors to fonts to graphics to the way all these elements, including the photography, come together.
Emilia Juocys is my assistant, but Im never comfortable with that term as it doesnt encompass the extent of Emilias work or describe our relationship. She helps test and develop recipes, keeps me organized, serves as a kind of personal trainer in generating my work, and generally saves my ass on pretty much a weekly basis.
This book is dedicated to Peter Stevenson, a fellow writer and one of my oldest and dearest friends. Peter gave me a place to stay when my work required me to be in Manhattan, as it did frequently over the years, and Id have been unable to afford to take on that work without his ongoing generosity. Long overdue thanks to you, Peter.
Ruhlmans How to Braise: Foolproof Techniques and Recipes for the Home Cook
Egg: A Culinary Exploration of the Worlds Most Versatile Ingredient
The Book of Schmaltz: Love Song to a Forgotten Fat
Ratio: The Simple Codes Behind the Craft of Everyday Cooking
The Elements of Cooking: Translating the Chefs Craft for Every Kitchen
The Reach of a Chef: Professional Cooks in the Age of Celebrity
The Soul of a Chef: The Journey Toward Perfection
The Making of a Chef: Mastering Heat at the Culinary Institute of America
Salumi: The Craft of Italian Dry Curing (with Brian Polcyn)
Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing (with Brian Polcyn)
Bouchon Bakery (with Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel)
Ad Hoc at Home (with Thomas Keller)
Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide (with Thomas Keller)
Bouchon (with Thomas Keller)
The French Laundry Cookbook (with Thomas Keller)
A Return to Cooking (with Eric Ripert)
Michael Symons Live to Cook (with Michael Symon)
THE OVEN
I am not Consumer Reports, and there are too many ovens with too many features to evaluate meaningfully in this book. I will say that many appliance makers make terrible decisions that confuse the consumer. I have a friend who has a stove allowing her to choose between convection bake or convection roast, for instance. I saw another with a selection called extended bake, and even the salesman had no idea what it meant. On the other hand, some ovens offer a proof setting that keeps the oven at 90F/30C to 125F/52C, which is a feature I would love for proofing bread and making yogurt.
One important consideration that Donna insisted I address when we bought our range is that it have a self-cleaning function. This is especially important if youre going to roast, since roasting requires high heat. Hot fat combined with juices from meat or moist fruits and vegetables will cause the fat to splatter, resulting in mists of grease spreading to all surfaces of your oven every time you roast. Furthermore, animal fat smokes at high temperatures, so in order to keep the smoke level low in your kitchen when roasting meat, you need a clean oven. A self-cleaning oven is a must in our house since cleaning by hand is something we dont want to do weekly. (This convenience does come with a caveat: some cooks have reported electrical issues due to the heavy electrical demands of the self-cleaning function, so the make of your oven and the configuration of your fuse box may be an issue.)