Theres no genre of American cuisine as storied as Southern, says Rob Newton.
In his debut cookbook, Newton brings to life the regional distinctions and new influences that make up the changing face of Southern cuisinea category of cooking as cutting-edge as any other in the world. As Southern regions demographics shift and food cultures bump up against one another, Chef Newton reveals just how diverse Southern cuisine really is.
As Newton explains, the pork and beans he grew up eating in the mountains of the Ozarks is very different from the shellfish-heavy food of the Lowcountry or the Cajun-influenced fare found along the Gulf Coast. And though often overlooked, historically under-recognized populations have constantly reimagined what the Southern table looks like with their culinary contributions: Enslaved African cooks perfected fried chicken, Middle Eastern communities helped introduce spices such as sumac to the Mississippi Delta, and Korean and Mexican immigrants continue to reinvent the grilled meats and pickled vegetables that Southerners know and love.
In Seeking the South, Newton brings his unique perspective to show readers theres much more to the food below the Mason-Dixon Line than meets the eye. Crisscrossing the South (the Upper and Deep South, Gulf Coast, Coastal Plains and Piedmont, and Lowcountry and Southeast Coast), Newton shares recipes as old and familiar as Pork Hocks with Hominy, and as current as Charred Okra with Sichuan Pepper, Garlic, and Green Onions and Black-Eyed Pea Falafel. To Newton, Southern cuisine delights because it is delicious and, above all, endlessly dynamic. In this cookbook, he brings this exciting evolution of flavors to your table.
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Copyright 2019 by Rob Newton
Photography copyright 2019 by Emily Dorio
Additional photography copyright 2019 by Yve Assad
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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Newton, Rob, author. | Feldmar, Jamie, author.
Title: Seeking the South inspired regional cuisine / Rob Newton with Jamie Feldmar.
Description: New York : Avery, an imprint of Penguin Random House, [2019] | Includes bibliographical references and index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2019013588 | ISBN 9780735220294 (hardcover) | ISBN 9780735220300 (ebook)
Subjects: LCSH: Cooking, AmericanSouthern style. | CookingSouthern States. | LCGFT: Cookbooks.
Classification: LCC TX715.2.S68 N49 2019 | DDC 641.5975dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2019013588
p. cm.
Neither the publisher nor the author is engaged in rendering professional advice or services to the individual reader. The ideas, procedures, and suggestions contained in this book are not intended as a substitute for consulting with your physician. All matters regarding your health require medical supervision. Neither the author nor the publisher shall be liable or responsible for any loss or damage allegedly arising from any information or suggestion in this book.
The recipes contained in this book are to be followed exactly as written. The publisher is not responsible for your specific health or allergy needs that may require medical supervision. The publisher is not responsible for any adverse reactions to the recipes contained in this book.
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To my mom, for her never-ending support, and to Nancy Reed, for showing me there was more to the world than my small town in Arkansas
INTRODUCTION
Growing up, I didnt know what Southern food was. I was raised deep in the Arkansas Ozarks, where our food was just food, and my family ate what we had in abundance: pork chops, beans, corn, and freshwater fish, plus fresh vegetables we grew ourselves and canned for the winter. We shopped, of course, but much of what we ate came from our gardens and the green forests around us. It wasnt until I left the South many years later that I began to understand that Southern food is indeed something different, and something special.
Theres no genre of American cuisine as storied as Southern. It has the longest history, most distinct terroir, and the most pronounced traditions of any food in the country, built largely by enslaved Africans and their descendants. For these reasons and more, Southern food can be a tricky topic, with a tendency to rile people up both in and out of the geographic boundaries of the South itself. When I left home in Arkansas and moved up north, first to Vermont and then to New York City, I encountered a lot of stereotypes about the food, and a lot of questions. Do you know the secret for making perfect fried chicken? If a cook isnt from the South, are they allowed to make Southern food? Can anyone even make Southern food outside of the South? Ive spent the past twenty years grappling with these questions and more, and I have a few things to say about all that.
For starters, I think the whole issue of who can make Southern food is moot. A chef of Japanese descent can master French food and vice versa; heritage is one thing but ability something else entirely. For me, it comes down to a matter of respect: Anyone can cook Southern food, so long as they understand its (often deeply troubled) history and honor it accordingly. Its a touchy subject, but in some ways I feel Americans have an obligation to make Southern food today, to continue to understand more about our past, however complicated it might be. I dont want to live in a world of extremes, where only certain people in certain places are allowed to cook certain thingsId much rather build a foundation in the middle with respect for the past, and use that as inspiration to move forward. The where of it is a non-issue, too: Food travels and adapts as it moves; it can convey a sense of place without being beholden to it. You might be reading this book in Mississippi or in Maine, and you will be able to cook from it either way (even if it means special-ordering a jar of sorghum here or some black walnuts there).