Outlaw - Nathan OutlawS Fish Kitchen

FOREWORD

I have a couple of early, very fond memories of Nathan. The first is from when I was judging a competition in which he was taking part. He served up a risotto that was so beautifully balanced, it stopped me in my tracks and I remember thinking, this chefs definitely going somewhere. Since then, he has opened several restaurants, including Restaurant Nathan Outlaw, which has become one of the best restaurants in the country, and Outlaws Fish Kitchen in Port Isaac, which has to be one of the most charming restaurants Ive eaten in. So I guess my assessment of his skill was pretty accurate.

The second is from a visit to the restaurant at the Lords of the Manor hotel in the Cotswolds when Nathan was working as a sous chef there under John Campbell. I arrived pushing my son, Jack, in a wheelchair because hed managed to break a leg. Nathan had a couple of hours off that afternoon, and instantly decided to take Jack off for a bout of fishing in the grounds of the hotel.

These pictures give, I think, some insight into the kind of chef Nathan is determined, generous and a great culinary technician. His devotion to all things fishy is second to none. He has thought carefully about how best to cook and present the produce of our rivers and seas, and worked hard at perfecting his craft. As a result, his dishes have as youll see a real elegance to them: subtle and beautifully balanced, respectful of tradition and precisely executed. On the plate, his cooking has a real simplicity, but its been forged from a total obsession with his craft and a fascination for how ingredients go together.

Nathans dedication to seeking out the best and freshest local produce is impressive. He knows Cornwall inside out and has sought out loads of fantastic local suppliers and developed enduring relationships with them. This is one of the keys to Nathans success: his cooking is driven and inspired by whats fresh, whats local and whats available, and you can really taste Cornwall in his food.

Nathans warmth and his compassion shine through his cooking and through this book. His enthusiasm and down-to-earth attitude make him an excellent guide to cooking fish and seafood. The recipes have a restraint that will appeal to the inexperienced cook but, equally, they have plenty of complexity of flavour and variety of texture to satisfy the more adventurous. Im especially pleased to see page space given to techniques like pickling, smoking and curing, which are all great favourites of mine but have, until recently, been largely ignored. Nathan Outlaws Fish Kitchen contains lots of vibrant, sophisticated dishes to excite and inspire take a look and I think youll be hooked!

HESTON BLUMENTHAL

CONTENTS

People often ask me how I keep coming up with new dishes. The answer isnt straightforward, but to keep at the top of my game and to satisfy my creativity my cooking has to continuously evolve. Some of my favourite times in my kitchens are when I get together with the guys to discuss and try out ideas for new dishes. Sometimes a supplier brings in something that triggers my imagination. I think to myself, That would be nice with, or I draw on my classical training or experiences Ive had eating elsewhere; then again a new dish may emerge from a happy accident!

Whatever the source of the idea, the recipes in this book are for dishes Ive created and love to cook both in the restaurant kitchens and at home. And the key is that they are simple to prepare, based on sustainable species and all made with ingredients you can shop for easily.

I want you to use this book, not just put it on a shelf! I want you to realise that cooking fish and seafood is not as difficult as many people seem to think. To make life easier Ive divided the recipes into chapters according to the way each dish is cooked or just prepped in the case of raw dishes.

For each chapter, I have given you information about the technique used that will help you to understand what happens to the seafood as you follow the recipe, thus enabling you to get fantastic results. Ive also indicated the varieties of fish and shellfish that respond best to each technique and suggested appropriate accompaniments and garnishes, so that you wow those you are cooking for every time.

To give you an insight into my style of cooking, Ive covered all the techniques I use. I like to think Im not a stereotypical chef. I dont have signature dishes, I do not make demands on my fishermen or suppliers, and I dont cook food that is complicated. My dishes may be complex in terms of their flavour and texture combinations, but they are really not overly complicated to prepare. Thats the secret!

So, how do I decide what Im going to cook? Local seafood is, of course, my main source of inspiration. For me, creating a dish always starts with the fish or shellfish. That definitely has to be the star of the show. Then I look to the other produce that is available to me and in season, using only the best quality that way I can be sure of great results. Unlike meat and poultry, seafood is highly seasonal, so it is variable and it isnt always available when youd like it to be. Ive learnt to deal with this by taking a flexible approach to my cooking, mixing and matching where necessary.

Some of my most successful dishes have been born out of adversity for instance, when a particular fish hasnt been landed due to bad weather. (The smaller boats cant get out when the weather is bad.) I am always thinking about food, forever learning about food and, most critically, always tasting it as I cook.

Every type of seafood is different. Even the same species will respond differently depending on the way you cook it or dont as the case may be. It varies according to size, where it is from and how its been caught. Using the seasons to full advantage is the best starting point, but I also want to give you a few tips and tricks that will enable you to take seafood to another level, without losing its beautiful purity and character. Acidity and salt are seafoods best friends their balance is vital to the success of a dish; confidence, practice and tasting are the only ways to get these right.

I can understand the fear of cooking fish and seafood: it has bones; it smells; it has a slimy appearance and sometimes its alive! Ive therefore made it my mission to remove the fear, mystery and awkwardness that surround seafood cookery. With practice, prepping fish yourself and dealing with the bones isnt difficult just follow my step-by-step guides to the different varieties (see ), or befriend a good fishmonger who will happily do it for you. Next, follow my recipes and youll see that it really isnt something to be fearful of.

As for it being smelly, really fresh fish should have an inviting aroma of the sea; it will only have an unpleasantly fishy smell if its not in good condition. And you can avoid lingering fishy odours after cooking if you wrap up the skin, bones and leftovers immediately and put them straight in an outside bin not in your kitchen food bin. A great tip for you: after prepping fish, rinse your hands and preparation equipment board, knives, etc. in cold water first, then hot. If you use warm or hot water first it will cook the fish residue, which then sticks to your skin, boards etc., making them smell.