Rankin - Very Pesto

Copyright 1985, 2004 by Dorothy Rankin

All rights reserved.
Published in the United States by Celestial Arts, an imprint of the Crown
Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com

Celestial Arts and the Celestial Arts colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Rankin, Dottie.
Very pesto Dorothy Rankin. [Rev. ed.]
p. cm.
Rev. ed. of: Pestos! Trumansburg, NY : Crossing Press, c1985.
1. Pestos. I. Rankin, Dottie. Pestos! II. Title.

TX819.P45R38 2004
641.814dc22 2004006119

eISBN: 978-0-307-81676-4

v3.1

To my mother, Mary, and all the Packards,
who sure knew how to cook.

My thanks go to family and friends who enabled me to stay with this project: Laurie Pettibon, for her creative ideas, unwavering support, and invaluable input; Andrea Chesman, editor and friend, for her guidance, faith, and encouragement; Linda Mansfield, for her enthusiasm and support; Patty Brushett, whose friendship means so much; and Amy Moody, favorite foodie and friend who makes it fun.

Contents

It is said, He who eats pesto never leaves Genoa.

A Genoese pesto is undoubtedly one of the worlds great culinary pleasures. Made from fresh basil leaves, pale green oil from ripe olives, a local sharp sheeps cheese, garlic, and pine nuts, this sublime essence is especially savored during the lush summer months.

In Genoa, where pesto originated, fresh basil is available year-round. The word pesto, derives from the Italian pesto meaning pounded. Today, the food processor and blender have replaced the mortar and pestle and the freezer has made it possible to store quantities of pesto for enjoyment year-round.

The variables in a classic basil pesto are many. There are no givens when it comes to making pestos in Genoa or in other provinces of Italy. No two towns make it the same way. Some versions include cream, other pestos call for butter. Pine nuts (pignolia) are a later addition to pesto. A Genoese pesto may contain all Sardo pecorino cheese (made from sheeps milk), whereas in this country, we usually combine a Romano pecorino and Parmesan cheese or make a pesto with all Parmesan. As Ed Giobbi said in his book Italian Family Cooking, When I was in Genoa, I tried to find the truly authentic version [of pesto], but that experience convinced me that there is no such thing.

This book contains a very classic version of pesto and recipes that use the pesto as a seasoning. There are also some rather unusual pestos, using such diverse herbs as cilantro, rosemary, mint, and oregano thyme. I hope that these recipes will be used as suggestions and inspirations for cooking with herbs.

I NGREDIENTS

Making herb pestos definitely begins with selecting quality ingredients.

Herbs Remove the stems and lightly pack the leaves in a measuring cup. Measure before you wash. To wash the leaves, immerse them in a bowl of cold water and swish them around. Drain in a strainer or colander and roll gently in a towel, or spin dry in a salad spinner. Fluff up the leaves and spread them on towels to dry further as you prepare the other ingredients.

Garlic Good fresh garlic is an integral component of this queen of sauces. Elephant garlic can be used; but since its flavor is considerably milder than garlic, adjust the number of cloves. The fresher the garlic, the better the flavor.

Cheese Next, the cheese is added to the pesto. It must be freshly grated for full flavor. Buy the cheese in a chunk and grate it by hand or in a food processor, first with the grating disk, then the steel blade. I freeze extra grated cheese in small containers. Stored this way, grated cheese will retain its fresh flavor for up to 6 weeks.

Since Italian Sardo pecorino is hard to find, a blend of freshly grated Parmesan and Romano pecorino seems to provide the best combination of sharpness and mellow flavor.

Asiago cheese works well in a mild-flavored pesto, such as Lemon Pesto ().

Oil The choice of the right oil is most important in pesto. A virgin olive oil, defined as a second-press oil, should provide sufficient quality. The strong flavor of the pesto overpowers the fruity extra virgin olive oil, although it will certainly make a fine pesto.

Labeling of imported oils is not always accurate, and to date the FDA has not addressed this problem. Look for an oil that tastes of olives, without an aftertaste. When you find a good oil, buy it in small quantities. Cap it tightly and store it in a cool place.

Nuts Pine nuts, or pignolia, are a wonderful addition to the original pesto. You may prefer to toast the nuts lightly (5 minutes for pine nuts, 10 minutes for walnuts in a preheated 300F oven).

Walnuts taste quite satisfactory in a basil pesto, but the milder pine nuts or unsalted pistachios should be used in delicate pestos, such as a tarragon or lemon pesto. Sunflower seeds and pumpkin seeds can be used in pestos also.

T HE P ROCESS

A handmade pesto, pounded in a mortar with a pestle, has a silky, chunky texture that cannot be duplicated in a machine. To make the traditional handmade pesto, youll need a good-size marble mortar. Sprinkle some coarse sea salt or kosher salt and a few black peppercorns or ground black pepper from a mill into the mortar. Pound the garlic, salt, and pepper together. The coarse salt will act as an abrasive to help puree the garlic and peppercorns. Add a few pine nuts and some basil leaves with a tablespoon of olive oil and continue pounding. Stir it all up occasionally. Add more leaves and nuts and a little oil. Continue crushing and stirring and adding the nuts, herbs, and a little oil. Too much oil will make it difficult to combine the ingredients. When you have added all the nuts and basil and have a fairly smooth paste, add the freshly grated cheese and the remaining oil, a little at a time, until it is all incorporated into the pesto. You should have a thick puree. Taste for salt and season if needed. Let the pesto stand for a few minutes to allow the flavors to blend.

To make the pesto in a food processor, combine the herbs, whole garlic, grated cheese, and nuts in the bowl of the processor. Use the pulsing action to combine the ingredients. With the machine running, slowly add the olive oil. Turn the machine off, scrape down the sides of the bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. The texture of the pesto will be fairly coarse at this point. Continue to process until it reaches a good consistency with some texture.

Allow the pesto to stand for a few minutes to allow the flavors to develop and blend. Just before serving or using it in a recipe, retaste and add salt and pepper if needed.

S TORING P ESTO

Pestos will keep well in the refrigerator for 3 or 4 weeks if stored properly. Pack the pesto into a small container. Cover the pesto with a thin layer of olive oil and cap tightly. It is important to exclude as much air as possible to prevent loss of color and spoilage.

When you are ready to use the pesto, spoon out as much as you need. There will be some discoloration of the pesto on the surface, but this will not affect the flavor. Simply stir the discolored pesto into the green pesto below. Add to the top layer of oil and refrigerate the remaining pesto.