acknowledgments
I owe the most sincere thanks to many extraordinary people who had a hand (and a spoon) in creating this book.
First and foremost, to Laurie Buckle. She believed in me way back when, hired me for a job I probably wasnt quite qualified for, and then gave me many opportunities to shine. Thank you for trusting me with this project. I hope youre proud of the results.
Thank you to my beloved team of recipe testers: Jenny Abramson, Erin Chapman, B Chatfield, Eddy Dibner, Paulie Dibner, Jessica Fox, Deborah Keefe, Amy Leo, Cathy Lo, Sarah Rosenthal, Jason Schreiber, Abby Simchak, Nicki Sizemore, Martha Tinkler, and Merritt Watts made each one of these recipes better than it was before. Im so grateful for your help.
To Stephen Kent Johnson for these beautiful images, Sarah Smart and Beatrice Chastka for their prop wizardry, and Jessie Damuck and Katie Stilo for cooking like a dream. Who knew a photo shoot could be so much fun? Lets always dance while we work.
I often wonder how I tricked Janis Donnaud into signing me. Shes the best agent a girl could ask for.
So many thanks to Angelin Borsics, La Tricia Watford, Cathy Hennessy, Kim Tyner, Natasha Martin, Lauren Velasquez, and the entire Clarkson Potter team. I think weve done something good.
To Mom and Dad for being lovable.
And to all the genius gluten-free chefs, recipe developers, and eaters who came before me. You paved the way and made millet flour easy to find. Thank you.
chicken broth
Surprisingly, some canned chicken broths are not gluten-free. Making chicken broth from scratch is easy and safer for anyone who is gluten-intolerant. Its also considerably more delicious.
Makes about 8 cups
2 pounds chicken bones
3 medium carrots, scrubbed and cut into 2-inch pieces
1 medium onion, cut into 1-inch wedges
4 stalks celery, cut into 2-inch pieces
1 small bunch parsley stems
3 fresh bay leaves (or 6 dried leaves)
1 teaspoon peppercorns
Combine all the ingredients in a large stockpot and add 16 cups (4 quarts) of water. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a very low simmer and cook for 3 to 4 hours, occasionally skimming off the gray foam. You are looking for golden yellow color and a rich chicken flavor. (I like to taste a spoonful with a little seasoning to decide when my broth is ready.) If the liquid seems to be reducing too quickly, cover the pot partially with a lid.
Let the broth cool to room temperature; then strain it and pour it into quart-sized containers. Keep it in the fridge for up to 1 week or in the freezer for up to 2 months.
roasted vegetable broth
This full-flavored vegetable broth is well suited for robust dishes like hearty vegetable stews and earthy mushroom risottos. For a milder vegetable broth, just skip the roasting step.
Makes about 8 cups
6 medium carrots, scrubbed and cut into 2-inch pieces
8 small stalks celery, cut into 2-inch pieces
2 medium onions, cut into 1-inch wedges
1 pound button mushrooms, halved
cup neutral oil, such as safflower
1 small bunch parsley stems
1 teaspoon peppercorns
3 fresh bay leaves (or 6 dried leaves)
2 to 3 tablespoons gluten-free tamari
Preheat the oven to 400F. Spread the carrots, celery, onions, and mushrooms onto two large rimmed baking sheets. Drizzle with the oil and toss to coat. Roast until the vegetables have browned, turning occasionally, 50 to 60 minutes. You want golden brown vegetables without any char.
Transfer the vegetables to a large stockpot. Pour 1 cup of water onto each of the baking sheets and use a wooden spoon to scrape up all the browned bits. Pour that liquid into the stockpot. Add the parsley, peppercorns, bay leaves, and an additional 14 cups (3 quarts) of water. Bring the mixture to a boil, reduce the heat to a gentle simmer, and cook the broth for 1 to 2 hours. You are looking for deep golden brown color and a good vegetable flavor. (I like to taste a spoonful with a little seasoning to decide when my broth is ready.) If the liquid seems to be reducing too quickly, cover the pot partially with a lid.
Let the broth cool to room temperature; then strain out the vegetables and seasonings, and stir in the tamari to taste. (The broth doesnt need to taste salty, just rich.) Pour the broth into quart-sized containers. Keep it in the fridge for up to 1 week or in the freezer for up to 2 months.
fresh herb zaatar
Zaatar is a Middle Eastern and Mediterranean spice blend that usually includes sesame seeds, sumac, and dried herbs. I like to make it using fresh herbsthe flavor is so much brighter. Zaatar is very versatile stuff: sprinkle it over a roast chicken, potatoes (see ). I even use it to flavor homemade potato chips.
Makes a scant cup
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano leaves
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted (see )
2 teaspoons ground sumac (see )
teaspoon kosher salt
In a mortar, combine the thyme, oregano, sesame seeds, sumac, and salt. Use the pestle to pound the mixture together until the herbs are bruised and some of the sesame seeds are broken down. (A few pulses in a spice grinder will also do the trick.)
Zaatar will keep in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks.
cooking with sumac
Long ago, before the Romans brought lemons to Europe, people used sumac to add tartness to their foods. Native to the Middle East, sumac bushes produce bright red berries that are dried and ground into powder. Look for it in the spice section of a well-stocked or specialty supermarket. If youre lucky enough to find fresh berries, steep them lightly in hot water to make a tangy sumac tea.
mild harissa
Harissa is a pepper paste that is traditionally used in North African and Middle Eastern dishes. I stir it into hearty salads like , into hummus, and into soups and stews. It also makes a nice condiment alongside roasted meats and is a tasty sandwich spread. It can range from sweet and mild to face-meltingly spicy. I like mine somewhere in the middle, so this recipe is fairly mild, with roasted red bell pepper, medium-hot pasilla chiles, and smoky anchos (dried poblanos), but you can use whatever dried chiles you like. For a little more heat, swap in some New Mexico chiles, chipotles, or even a few fresh Thai bird chiles.
Makes about 1 cup
ounce chile negro (pasilla) chiles (about 4), stemmed and seeded (see )
ounce ancho chiles (about 2), stemmed and seeded (see )
1 medium red bell pepper
1 teaspoon caraway seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
2 teaspoons coriander seeds
4 garlic cloves
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for coating the top
tip Its best to wear gloves when working with hot chiles as their oily residue can stick to your fingers long after youve finished the task.
Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Combine the dried chiles in a heatproof bowl and cover with the boiling water. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set it aside for the chiles to soften, 1 hour.
Meanwhile, roast the red bell pepper by setting it directly over the gas flame of your stove, rotating it often with tongs, until softened and charred all over, about 25 minutes. (Alternatively, set the pepper on a foil-lined baking sheet about 4 inches from the broiler set on high, turning every 3 to 5 minutes until softened and charred, 15 to 20 minutes.) Transfer the pepper to a bowl, cover it with plastic wrap, and set it aside until the pepper is cool enough to handle, about 15 minutes.
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