Steves - Rick Steves Snapshot Englands Lake District

Rick Steves'

SNAPSHOT

Rick Steves

This Snapshot guide, excerpted from my guidebook Rick Steves England, introduces you to the nature-lovers paradise of the Lake District. The Romantic poet William Wordsworth sang the glories of the region, childrens author Beatrix Potter later lived here, and today touristswhether Brits or visitors from across the pondagree that the picturesque lakes, hilly landscape, and all-around charm make this one of Englands most relaxing destinations. Set up shop in an appealing small townKeswick is my favoriteor at a countryside B&B in a remote valley. Then explore the region by foot, boat, or car...theres no shortage of invigorating hikes, scenic cruises, and carefree joyrides here. Youll also discover literary sights dedicated to Wordsworth and Potter, ponder forgotten prehistoric stone circles, and try to count the flocks of sheep that youll spot around every turn.

To help you have the best trip possible, Ive included the following topics in this book:

Planning Your Time, with advice on how to make the most of your limited time

Orientation, including tourist information (abbreviated as TI), tips on public transportation, local tour options, and helpful hints

Sights with ratings:

Dont miss

Try hard to see

Worthwhile if you can make it

No ratingWorth knowing about

Sleeping and Eating, with good-value recommendations in every price range

Connections, with tips on trains, buses, and driving

Practicalities, near the end of this book, has information on money, phoning, hotel reservations, transportation, and more.

To travel smartly, read this little book in its entirety before you go. Its my hope that this guide will make your trip more meaningful and rewarding. Traveling like a temporary local, youll get the absolute most out of every mile, minute, and dollar.

Happy travels!

In the pristine Lake District, William Wordsworths poems still shiver in trees and ripple on ponds. Nature rules this land, and humanity keeps a wide-eyed but low profile. Relax, recharge, take a cruise or a hike, and maybe even write a poem. Renew your poetic license at Wordsworths famous Dove Cottage.

The Lake District, about 30 miles long and 30 miles wide, is natures lush, green playground. Explore it by foot, bike, bus, or car. While not impressive in sheer height (Scafell Pike, the tallest peak in England, is only 3,206 feet), theres a walking-stick charm about the way nature and the culture mix here. Locals are fond of declaring that their mountains are older than the Himalayas and were once as tall, but have been worn down by the ages. Walking along a windblown ridge or climbing over a rock fence to look into the eyes of a ragamuffin sheep, even tenderfeet get a chance to feel very outdoorsy. The tradition of staying close to the land remains truealbeit in an updated formin the 21st century; youll see restaurants serving organic food as well as stickers advocating for environmental causes in the windows of homes.

Dress in layers, and expect rain mixed with brilliant bright spells (pubs offer atmospheric shelter at every turn). Drizzly days can be followed by delightful evenings.

Plan to spend the majority of your time in the unspoiled North Lake District. In this chapter, I focus on the town of Keswick, the lake called Derwentwater, and the vast, time-passed Newlands Valley. The North Lake District works great by car or by bus (with easy train access via Penrith), delights nature-lovers, and has good accommodations to boot.

The South Lake Districtslightly closer to Londonis famous primarily for its Wordsworth and Beatrix Potter sights, and gets the promotion, the tour crowds, and the tackiness that comes with them. I strongly recommend that you focus on the north. Ideally, enter the region from the north, via Penrith. Make your home base in or near Keswick, and side-trip from here into the South Lake District only if youre interested in the Wordsworth and Beatrix Potter sights.

Id suggest spending two days and two nights in this area. Penrith is the nearest train station, just 45 minutes by bus or car from Keswick. Those without a car will use Keswick as a springboard: Cruise the lake and take one of the many hikes in the Catbells area. Non-hikers can hop on a minibus tour. If great scenery is commonplace in your life, the Lake District can be more soothing (and rainy) than exciting. If youre rushed, you could make this area a one-night standor even a quick drive-through.

Two-Day Driving Plan: Heres the most exciting way for drivers coming from the southwhod like to visit South Lake District sights en route to the North Lake Districtto max out their time here:

Day 1: Get an early start, aiming to leave the motorway at Kendal by 10:30; drive along Windermere and through Ambleside.

Day 2: Spend the morning (3-4 hours) splicing the Catbells high-ridge hike into a circular boat trip around Derwentwater. In the afternoon, make the circular drive from Keswick through the Newlands Valley, Buttermere, Honister Pass, and Borrowdale. You could tour the Honister Slate Mine en route (last tour at 15:30) and/or pitch-and-putt nine holes in Keswick before a late dinner.

Nothing is very far from Keswick and Derwentwater. Pick up a good map (any hotel can loan you one), get off the big roads, and leave the car, at least occasionally, for some walking. In summer, the Keswick-Ambleside-Windermere-Bowness corridor (A-591) suffers from congestion.

To rent a car here, try Enterprise in Penrith. Theyll pick you up in Keswick and drive you back to their office to get the car, and also drive you back to Keswick after youve dropped it off (Mon-Fri 8:00-18:00, Sat 9:00-12:00, closed Sun, requires drivers license and second form of ID, reserve a day in advance, tel. 01768/893-840).

Parking is tight throughout the region. Its easiest to just park in the pay-and-display lots (gather small coins, as most machines dont make change). If youre parking free on the roadside, dont block the vital turnouts. Never park on double yellow lines.