Vaughan - Egg: recipes

CONTENTS

Hens eggs be the best eggs, and the best be those that be fresh.

FOURTEENTH-CENTURY COOKBOOK

Where would we be without eggs? Their versatility has made them the foundation of recipes from all over the world. We eat them in many different guises: for breakfast, lunch, tea, and supper. This simple ingredient is the star of the kitchen.

We rarely see an egg in its nest, let alone have the pleasure of eating an egg freshly laid. A new egg is one of the most delicious things you can eat and even more enjoyable if youve plucked it from the nest yourself and felt it warm in your hand.

Its often the star of the show, whether baked with chili and cheese or poached in wine in the classic dish oeufs en meurette. But the egg is also a chameleon, taking on many roles: it can be cooked whole or beaten, whisked to make airy cakes and snowy meringues, or used in luxurious custards and silky pasta as well as being the crucial binding ingredient in pastries and batters.

Soft-boiled, gently poached, crisp-fried, or creamy and scrambled, the breakfast egg has become an institution, and I cant think of a better way to start the day. There are recipes here to bring out the best flavors of the morning egg: anchovy soldiers to dip into runny yolks, eggs scrambled with Spanish black pudding or fried with spices, herbs, and chili. For sweeter days, there are muffins with fruit and fluffy pancakes to cover with crunchy bacon and maple syrup.

At lunchtime, eggs are quick to prepare, the ultimate convenience food: poached with kale and chorizo, turned into fritters with zucchini and sumac, or used for prepare-ahead dishes such as tortilla or quiche, to be enjoyed warm or cold.

There are cakes and biscuits for teatime; and supper dishes that are both light and substantialegg pastas, fish dishes with egg sauces, and a simple recipe for Japanese chicken and egg. Puddings put eggs to their most decadent uses, from souffls and mousses to trifle, crpes, meringues, steamed puddings, and, of course, rich, custard-based ice creams.

A high cholesterol content (according to recent studies) is no longer something to be feared. Instead, eggs are recommended as an excellent source of protein and are crucial as part of a healthy, balanced diet. They are nutritious enough to eat with just a few vegetables and contain plenty of protein for non-meat eaters too. They are also full of vitamins, great for our eyes and skin, hearts, and bones.

Once youve seen and tasted eggs from happily reared chickens that are allowed to peck around outside, eating grubs and natural foods, you will find it hard to buy eggs from battery-reared hens. Many well-produced eggs are now available commercially and most supermarkets stock very good quality free-range and organic eggs. Free-range and organically farmed eggs can cost more, but the benefit is a more flavorful, nutritious ingredient and often one that is easier to cook with: eggs that poach easily because the whites are strong, better structured cakes, and deep golden yolks for richer custard and puddings.

Like eggs themselves, the majority of the ingredients required for these recipes are easy to find, or may even be in your store cupboard already. A few capers and cornichons, for example, made into a chopped egg sauce can lift a simply cooked piece of fish or chicken. Many of the dishes take very little time to prepare while others, such as the , are better when made in advance.

Despite eggs being one of the most familiar ingredients in the kitchen, I am constantly surprised, delighted, and inspired by the variety of recipes they can produce, and I hope you will be too.

Buying

Try to choose organic, free-range eggs whenever you can. Dont be misled by labels such as farm fresh or barn eggs, which are generally meaninglessa farm fresh egg may well have been produced on a battery farm while hens from barn eggs are still kept inside. Free-range, organic egg production provides chickens with outside space to exercise as well as natural feed that is free from hormones, artificial pesticides, and fertilizers. Not only do they taste better because of this, they are also better to cook with; good-quality eggs have viscous whites and flavorful, rich yolks. Quite simply, birds that have been treated humanely and have been able to forage outdoors lead healthier lives and produce finer eggs.

Different breeds of hen produce eggs with different colored shells; for instance Marans chickens lay brown eggs while Legbars are light blue. Most importantly they all have their own unique flavor, which is mainly down to the quality of nutrients they eat. A deeper colored yolk is generally a good indication that the egg has come from a free-range hen.

Many supermarkets now stock different varieties so try experimenting until you find one that you like (my favorites are Clarence Court Burford Browns). Alternatively, buy them from a farm shop or market and see which you prefer. Eggs are available in various sizes, the most popular being medium and large. Unless otherwise stated I have used large eggs throughout this book.

Note: Young children, pregnant women, and the elderly should avoid recipes using raw egg whites or lightly cooked eggs.

Storing and freshness

Eggs should be kept in a cool, dry place, ideally in the fridge. Stored in cold conditions, pointy end down, they can last for up to three weeks (but always check the use-by date on the packaging). The best way to store eggs in the fridge is in an airtight container; eggshells are porous so they can absorb other smells easily. Dont be tempted to store eggs in the fridge door where they will be constantly jolted as you open and shut the doorthis just makes them deteriorate more quickly.

When baking or using egg whites for whisking, the best results are achieved from eggs that have been allowed to come to room temperature. Take them out of the fridge an hour or so before you need to use them. Alternatively, put them in a glass of warm water for a few minutes.

To test if an egg is fresh (without breaking it) put it in a glass of water. If it sinks right to the bottom, its very fresh; if it stands up slightly, it is still good to use; and if it floats, it is past its best so throw it away. Alternatively, break the egg into a glass and have a look at the viscosity of the white and the pertness of the yolk. A slack, watery white and a floppy yolk is an indication of a stale or poor quality egg. If it smells, it definitely needs to go in the bin!

Egg whites freeze very well and can be kept in the freezer for up to three months. A useful tip is to freeze them in small quantities or individually so you dont end up defrosting more than you need; simply tip into an airtight container and make sure you label them with the number of whites and the date. One large egg white weighs approximately 1 ozthis is useful to know if you have forgotten to label your frozen egg whites. Thaw frozen egg whites in the fridge overnight. Defrosted egg whites whisk very well, making them ideal for meringues, and can be used in exactly the same way as you would use fresh egg whites. Leftover yolks should be covered and kept in the fridge for up to a week but they dont freeze successfully. Whole eggs, lightly beaten, can also be frozen but I have never seen the point of this; if I need to use up some eggs I just make something.