Rick Steves - Rick Steves Best of Ireland

Rick Steves & Pat OConnor

Flung onto the foggy fringe of the Atlantic pond like a mossy millstone, Ireland drips with mystery, drawing you in for a closer look. You wont find the proverbial pot of gold, but you will treasure the engaging and feisty Irish people. Irish culturewith its unique language, intricate art, and mesmerizing musicis as intoxicating as the famous Irish brew, Guinness.

The Irish revere their past and love their proverbs (such as When God made time, he made a lot of it). Ireland is dusted with prehistoric stone circles, beehive huts, and standing stonessome older than the pyramids. While much of Europe has buried older cultures under new, Ireland still reveals its cultural bedrock.

Todays Ireland is vibrant, cosmopolitan, and complex. The small island (about the size of Maine) holds two distinctly different Irelands: the Republic of Ireland (an independent nation thats mainly Catholic) and Northern Ireland (part of the United Kingdom, roughly half Protestant and half Catholic). No visit is complete without a look at both.

Want to really get to know Ireland? Belly up to the bar in a neighborhood pub and engage a local in conversation. The Irish have a worldwide reputation as talkative, musical, moody romantics with a quick laugh and a ready smile. Come join them.

In this selective book, I recommend Irelands top destinationsa mix of lively cities, cozy towns, and natural wondersalong with the best sights and experiences they have to offer.

The biggie on everyones list is Dublin, the energetic, friendly capital of the Republic of Ireland. But theres so much more to see. The island is dotted with Celtic and Christian ruins, cliffside fortresses, and prehistoric sites. Br na Binnes burial mounds are older than Stonehenge. Theres the proud town of Kilkenny, the historic Rock of Cashel, colorful Kinsale, and two peninsula loops: the famous Ring of Kerry and the more intimate Slea Head Loop near Dingle. Youthful Galway is a good launchpad for dramatic scenery: the sheer Cliffs of Moher (in County Clare) and craggy Aran Islands.

In Northern Ireland, historic Belfast sheds light on the political Troubles that once bitterly divided this country. The lush Antrim Coast delights visitors, with fun-loving Portrush serving as a handy home base.

Beyond the major destinations, I cover the Best of the Restgreat destinations that dont quite make my top cut, but are worth seeing if you have more time: the region of Connemara and the town of Derry. When interesting sights or towns are near my recommended destinations, I cover them briefly, to help you enjoyably fill out a free day or a longer stay.

To help you link the top sights, Ive designed a two-week itinerary (on ), with tips for tailoring it to your interests.

The bustling capital of the Republic of Ireland is a fascinating concoction of treasured Dark Age gospels, Celtic artifacts, and rambunctious pubs. It shows its heart in its sightsfrom the Kilmainham Gaol (where the English imprisoned Irish rebels and paupers) to the Guinness Storehouse, which deifies the national beer. Its musical tradition and writers heritage fuel trad and literary pub crawls. While its greatest sight is the medieval Book of Kells, the best thing about Dublin is its people.

THE BEST OF DUBLIN

Christ Church Cathedral sits atop Norman crypts and anchors the historic heart of Dublin.

THE BEST OF DUBLIN

The friendly pulse of this vibrant city is best felt in its many traditional pubs.

THE BEST OF DUBLIN

The Ha Penny Bridge, just beyond the inn, replaced ferries and charged locals a half-penny toll.

THE BEST OF DUBLIN

Turreted Dublin Castle was the center of dominant English control in Ireland for almost eight centuries.

THE BEST OF DUBLIN

The popular Musical Pub Crawl introduces Irish traditional sessions to tune-loving travelers.

THE BEST OF DUBLIN

Monastic scribes copying scriptures painstakingly created the Book of Kells during the Dark Ages.

THE BEST OF DUBLIN

Grafton Street is a pedestrian shopping mecca, inviting for a stroll on a sunny day.

Two fine stops between Dublin and Dingle are medieval Kilkenny and the massive Rock of Cashel. Kilkenny is a sturdy, hardworking town, with a castle, cathedral, and atmospheric pubs featuring live traditional folk music. The evocative Rock of Cashel has majestic hill-topping ruins worth exploring and pondering. South of Kilkenny, you can make excursions to an old abbey, a replica of a famine ship, and the birthplace of Waterford crystal.

THE BEST OF KILKENNY AND THE ROCK OF CASHEL