Dixie Lee Poche - Cajun Pig: Boucheries, Cochon de Laits and Boudin

Published by American Palate

A Division of The History Press

Charleston, SC

www.historypress.com

Copyright 2020 by Dixie Lee Poch

All rights reserved

First published 2020

e-book edition 2020

ISBN 978.1.43967.161.0

Library of Congress Control Number: 2020941803

print edition ISBN 978.1.46714.446.9

Notice: The information in this book is true and complete to the best of our knowledge. It is offered without guarantee on the part of the author or The History Press. The author and The History Press disclaim all liability in connection with the use of this book.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form whatsoever without prior written permission from the publisher except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles and reviews.

Dedicated to my sisters, Ginger and Maxine, for memories of barefoot summers and Sunday afternoons at the Old Place.

CONTENTS

FOREWORD

Theres a saying in the old African American churches of Louisiana that once the congregation has contributed to the collection plate, a preacher dissatisfied with the offering might encourage greater donations by saying, Thank yall so much for bringing me the pig tails and feet, but we need to get a little higher up on that hog. As Louisianans, we tend to dine higher up on that hog with every outdoor food function and meal we eat.

Were blessed in Louisiana. Our temperate weather and rich, alluvial soil allow us three great growing seasons. Wild game is abundantfrom white-tailed deer to land birds and migratory waterfowl. The waters of the Gulf Coast teem with fresh shrimp, oysters, crabs and finfish. And it really doesnt matter whos cooking. Grant it, Mamres cooking is hard to beat, but the roadside cafs serve great touffe and gumbo, too. Pull into any gas station, and youre sure to find delicious boudin, boudin balls and crispy cracklings to die for. Then, there are our outdoor food feastscrawfish boils, shrimp and crab cookouts, fish fries, cochon de laits and boucheries. Its the pork-related cuisine that St. Martin Parish native Dixie Poch finds so fascinating.

In 2016, I was inspired to preserve the tradition of the boucherie by hosting one at my White Oak Estate & Gardens in Baton Rouge. Louisiana Public Broadcasting stepped in to document the harvesting, cooking and camaraderie associated with this living Louisiana tradition. We passed such a good time that we made it an annual outdoor gathering every February. Thats where I met Dixie, who hobnobbed with the butchers and chefs demonstrating the art of preparing Cajun delicacies such as hogs head cheese, andouille, boudin, maudlin, crackling and other Spoils of the Boucherie.

Dixie elucidates on a variety of topics in her book from the arrival and history of the pig in Louisiana to traditional recipes. She discusses Louisiana boucheries alongside similar pig-related celebrations of other regions. Her text covers many of the pork festivals that are held yearly throughout the state, such as the Boudin Festival in Scott and the Swine Festival in Basile. But what wins my heartand stomachis Dixies inclusion of popular grocery stores and specialty meat markets in the heart of Cajun country. For those not yet indoctrinated into the food ways of Louisiana, she carefully defines some of our favorite Cajun pork dishes.

Cajun Pig is a tremendous resource tool that is seasoned with great historic photographs as well. When it comes to swining and dining in Louisiana, Dixie Poch has it covered. From snout to tailits all here!

Chef John D. Folse, CEC, AAC

Louisianas Culinary Ambassador to the World

Gonzales, Louisiana

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Its been an eye-opening experience for me to attend a pig roast as I peer eye-to-eye with a roasted pig with an apple in its mouth. From a distance, I saw chefs stirring what I mistakenly believed to be chocolate pudding in a bowl. It was actually pig blood; the chefs were preparing blood boudin.

I enjoyed many one-of-a-kind experiences as I jumped in the car to travel through South Louisiana to dance to zydeco music and hunt for mom-and-pop shops to sample an endless array of boudin balls or pickled pig lips. And those were just the appetizers! The heartwarming stories shared by shop owners and chefs reminded me of my aunt and uncle who ran a meat market in St. Martin Parish. I admired their dedication to customers along with the mouth-watering dishes of their Sunday plate lunches.

Thanks to Chef John Folse for setting the stage for so many writers and chefs. He has a vast knowledge of Cajun history, and I am appreciative of his assistance. It was through his annual Fete de Bouchers that my interest in writing about boucheries was sparked.

I am grateful for the hospitality shown to me by the Henry family in Mermentau Cove. Their Beau Chenes farm was a perfect venue for hosting the Cadien Toujours Boucherie. This organization and the efforts behind it to share Cajun traditions are admirable.

Thanks to Joan Kaiser Bergeaux of Krotz Springs for spending so much time with me sharing the amazing Orphan Train story of her grandparents.

Small general store, Jeanerette, Louisiana, 1938. New York Public Library.

Finally, a very special merci to photographer/French teacher/Cajun cook/cousin/friend Annette Huval for rising at roosters crow to attend piggy events and shoot amazing photos that tell the delightful story of old-fashioned Cajun gatherings.

Authors Note

ROAD TRIPPIN IN THE SOUTH

If you come to a fork in the road, take it.

Yogi Berra

Discovering a diamond in the rough for dining out has always been a beloved pastime of mine. Im searching for something cozy like Grandmas house where each table is topped with vintage salt and pepper shakers. Knickknacks are scattered on shelves. Autographed photos of celebrities who have stopped by to dine adorn the walls. I hop up to an empty seat at a well-worn lunch counter, perfectly placed for people watching while listening to local chatter. A cheery waitress asks me how my day is going and recites the blue plate special. When an eatery has been in the same family for years and they are excited to share their stories, I know I have opened a treasure box.

Fresh wildflowers in mason jars, cloth napkins folded on dining tables, aroma of food simmering in the kitchen and mismatched dining chairs are all eye-catching. The creativity of the plating and layers of seasoning of the plated dishes say a lot too. Are there unusual dishes on the menu? Although squirrel sauce piquante is a camp-style Cajun delicacy, you wont find it on too many menus.

My curiosity for trying out new places began when my family and I enjoyed road trips during childhood summer breaks. When we were hungry and ready to chow down, it was rare that we picked up fast food. Rather, we chose a ramshackle barn-like building located on a back road. Off-the-beaten path was definitely the way we traveled. We came upon a restaurant with its gravel parking filled with locals. If the joint was hopping with lots of action, we agreed this was a sure sign of great eats. We loved to sample fried chicken with a delicious taste and crispiness equal to my mothers home cooking. Once we settled down at a table near the window, my father eavesdropped to the jibber-jabber of nearby customers. It made him feel at home if he overheard someone speaking French, as that usually meant that there were Cajuns in the house. He would go over to shake hands. You never know, hed comment to us, we may be cousins.