Eric Lanlard - Totally Chocolate: 60 deliciously seductive recipes

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HOW TO USE THIS EBOOK

Select one of the chapters from the main contents list and you will be taken to a list of all the recipes covered in that chapter.

Alternatively, jump to the index to browse recipes by ingredient.

Look out for linked text (which is underlined and/or in a different colour) throughout the ebook that you can select to help you navigate between related recipes.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

At the age of ten, my attraction to chocolate the food of the gods had already started. In fact, my memories go much further back to my familys daily visits to the local boulangerie, where we would buy a brioche and a single bar of dark Chocolat Poulain the trick was to push the bar up without breaking it and enjoy it on the way to school. The reason that, years later, I chose Le Grand Ptisserie in Quimper for my apprenticeship is because it was the only local boutique that made its own chocolate!

My fascination with this precious ingredient is still with me and over the years I have made it my mission to discover the history and origins of chocolate, and the techniques of its production. To understand the whole process, from cocoa bean to an indulgent, finished product, I have been lucky enough to walk through a fertile hacienda in South America and a plantation in Trinidad, to touch, taste and smell the raw ingredient and then witness the long process of the cocoa beans being roasted, conched, blended and moulded into delicious chocolate bars, eggs or other fabulous shapes.

But as much as I adore eating chocolate, its as a baking ingredient that I love it the most and with this book I want to share my passion for chocolate with you. From indulgent chocolate drinks, tarts, muffins and mousses to gteaux, petits fours and elaborate creations for special occasions, join me in the madness of baking with chocolate!

Eric x

KNOW YOUR CHOCOLATE

HOW TO CHOOSE A GOOD CHOCOLATE

Choosing a good chocolate is first a question of taste. In its raw state, cacao is bitter, so the taste and quality of chocolate depends on the percentage of cocoa solids it contains, the provenance of the cocoa beans and the production process. A good-quality chocolate has a shiny finish and is brittle, with a strong characteristic taste and smoothness, and it should not stick to the palate. A premium chocolate will also have mostly cocoa butter as its main fat content. For baking or making desserts, I personally like to use chocolate with a maximum of 70% cocoa solids, as chocolate with a higher percentage of cocoa solids can be too bitter.

STORING CHOCOLATE

Avoid storing chocolate in the refrigerator keep it in a cool (1520C/5968F), dry and dark place away from strong odours like spices, strong foods or other cooking smells.

If your chocolate has a white discoloration on its surface (chocolate bloom), it is best to discard it, as that means it is old or has been stored in extreme temperatures.

WORKING WITH CHOCOLATE

MELTING CHOCOLATE

In a bain-marie

The classic way to melt chocolate is in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water. For a great result, the secret is to melt the chocolate gently over a very low heat, making sure the surface of the water does not touch the bowl.

In a microwave

Alternatively, you can put chocolate into a microwavable bowl and zap it in the microwave on high power for few seconds at a time, stirring gently in between bursts, until melted. Every microwave is different, so it is worth testing a small amount of chocolate in your microwave first, to see how long it takes to melt. Remember, milk and white chocolate burn more easily than dark chocolate, so be very cautious and gentle when melting them, whichever process you use.

TEMPERING CHOCOLATE

WHAT IS TEMPERING?

Tempering is a technique that pastry chefs and chocolatiers use to stabilize chocolate and achieve a glossy, hard, brittle finish, making tempered chocolate perfect for dipping individual chocolates and truffles or coating biscuits and cakes. It involves melting and cooling chocolate, then bringing it to the correct temperature for coating.

THE TECHNIQUE

For best results, use a chocolate or sugar thermometer to check that the correct temperature for each stage has been reached.

First, if using a bar of chocolate, chop your chocolate as finely as possible. Melt two-thirds of it in a heatproof bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water. Remove the bowl from the pan when the chocolate is just melted and has reached the required temperature (see ).

Add the remaining chocolate a little at the time, stirring gently between additions. Continue to stir gently until all the chocolate is melted and the mixture has cooled to 2627C (7981F) (see ).

Return the bowl of melted chocolate to the pan and reheat to 2830C (8286F) (see ).

To test, drizzle a few drops of the chocolate on to a piece of baking paper the chocolate should set in a few minutes and be ready for use. If it sets too fast, return the bowl to the pan and heat for a few seconds to make it more fluid. Use for dipping and coating.

Chocolate Tempering Temperatures

Chocolate	Melted Temperature	Cooled Temperature	Reheated Temperature
Dark	50C (122F)	27C (81F)	30C (86F)
Milk	45C (113F)	27C (81F)	29C (84F)
White	40C (104F)	26C (79F)	28C (82F)

CHOCOLATE AND VANILLA MARBLE CAKE

This recipe is one of my earliest baking recipes. I used to make it every Wednesday when I was off school its fun and easy to make, and a great teatime treat.

SERVES 8

Preparation time: 15 minutes, plus cooling

Cooking time: 50 minutes

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