Marilyn Noble - The Little Local Southwest Cookbook: Recipes for Classic Dishes

THE
LITTLE LOCAL COOKBOOK Recipes for Classic Dishes MARILYN NOBLE To chiles, frijoles, and tortillas, and the
grandmothers who have always cooked them The modern cuisine of the American Southwest is based on some of the oldest in the New World. The first evidence of irrigated agriculture in the United States is found in Tucson, wheresome 4,100 years agoindigenous people raised corn and squash, foraged for foods like prickly pear and mesquite, and hunted rabbits and mule deer. In the 1690s, Spanish missionaries brought apples, grapes, peaches, garlic, leeks, watermelon, and wheat to the desert, and they also introduced livestock. In the following centuries, immigrants to the Southwest brought their own foodways from Europe, South and Central America, Asia, and even other parts of the United States. The result is a fusion of ancient indigenous foods and techniques with modern influences from all over the world. Chiles, corn, citrus, and chocolate figure prominently in Southwestern cooking.

So does meatwhether its grilled, braised, smoked, or driedin preparations inspired by both Native American traditions and cowboy-style, out-on-the-range cookery. Should anyone labor under the false impression that Southwestern food is nothing more than greasy tacos and refried beans, please note that Tucson was named the first UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy in the United States in 2015, with San Antonio following in 2017. Its an exclusive fraternity, as since the inception of the program in 2005, only 26 cities around the world have earned the distinction. Its almost impossible to pin down a single style that best epitomizes Southwest cooking. Consider the following: In Arizona, the Sonoran influence is strong, with specialties like seafood from the Gulf of California and flour tortillas sobaquera, which are thin, soft, and nearly as big as a blanket. (Sobaquera is Mexican slang for armpitif youre talented at stretching the dough into shape, the tortilla should reach from your fingertips all the way up your arm.) New Mexicans are fond of a nuanced array of chiles: green and red, fresh and dried.

Hatch, a small town near the Rio Grande River in the southern part of the state, is world renowned for the quality of its namesake chiles. Texas, with its convergence of diverse cultures, is known for, well, Tex-Mex cuisine, with its yellow-cheesy enchiladas and beefy chile con carne. What most people think of as Tex-Mex, however, is now evolving into a more refined way of cooking that incorporates both Mexican and indigenous ingredients. Chiles are the spark that sets Southwestern cuisine apart from other regions in the United States. For a few short weeks every fall, the earthy, smoky perfume of roasting green chiles permeates the air around farmers markets and grocery stores. Roadside stands, each with a large rotating cage and a roaring propane burner, spring up out of seemingly nowhere to work their magic.

Throngs of people line up to take this precious commodity home to be turned into salsas, green chile stews, and other iconic dishes. Most cooks in the Southwest keep a stash of roasted green chiles in the freezer, ready at a moments notice to be turned into rellenos or to dress up otherwise humdrum hamburgers. No self-respecting Southwestern cook would be without pure chile molido (ground red chiles or chile powder) in the pantry, usually in several different varieties of chile and different levels of heat. Chile powder is the flavor platform for countless Southwestern dishes, from tamales to posole to carne adobada. In this book, when you see a reference to chile powder, it means pure, unadulterated red chile powderno extra spices or seasonings, no salt, no garlic powderunless otherwise specified. This book is a small sampling of recipes that I hope will inspire you to explore and experiment with Southwestern cuisine, whether youre cooking at home for your family and friends or visiting one of the many outstanding restaurants located throughout the Borderlands or beyond.

Learn how to use chile powderbut only the pure stuffand cook with foraged foods like prickly pear. Youll feel a connection to the wild desert and to our shared history in every bite.

Makes 1 cocktail Once upon a time, a friend and I set out in search of the best margarita in Santa Fe. After three days of tasting, I dont remember which one got the title, but I did learn this: A good margarita should be a little tart, a little sweet, and a little salty, and it should still allow the flavors of the spirits to come through. 1 lime wedgeKosher saltIce, crushed and cubed2 ounces freshly squeezed lime juice2 ounces freshly squeezed orange juice1 ounce premium tequila blanco1 ounce Grand Marnier liqueurGarnish: additional lime wedge Rub 1 lime wedge around the rim of a 10-ounce rocks glass or a margarita glass and then dip the rim in the kosher salt. Add the crushed ice to the glass.

Combine the lime and orange juices, tequila, and Grand Marnier in a cocktail shaker with a few ice cubes. Shake well and then strain into the salted glass. Garnish with another lime wedge and serve.

Makes 8 servings Sangria is a traditional Spanish drink thats usually made with red wine, but in the Southwestern deserts, where oranges, lemons, and limes are abundant, white wine is a more refreshing choice. Use a crisp sauvignon blanc to complement the citrus flavors, and serve the sangria in a glass pitcher to let the colors of the fruit shine through. 2 lemons2 limes2 oranges2 cups water1 cup granulated sugar