Lonely Planet - Vancouver Encounter

You can always spot first-time Vancouver visitors. Theyre the ones suddenly rooted to the spot after glimpsing a gleaming snowcapped crag perfectly framed between a pair of shiny downtown towers. Its a signature city view that even locals rarely take for granted.

Its also a reminder that jaw-dropping nature is the main lure of this verdant metropolis. Stroll to the tip of Canada Place for the full effect: youll find broccoli-green Stanley Park winking on your left; the shimmering waters of Burrard Inlet rippled by plunging floatplanes ahead; and that looming wall of jagged mountains framing the panoramic skyline.

But while this grand backdrop supplies stirring visuals for the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games the citys biggest-ever sporting fiesta theres much more to Vancouver than good looks. And even if you miss the five rings rolling in, its worth poking beneath this dazzling exterior to find out what really makes the place tick.

Youll find an easily explorable city divided into bite-sized neighborhoods, each with a different personality. Downtown is the mainstream hub of shops and crowds; Gastown is the cobbled historic home of great bars; Chinatown is the kaleidoscope of exotic stores and eateries; Kitsilano is the laid-back, beachside stretch of clapboard heritage homes; Commercial Drive is the boho enclave of counter-culture cool; SoMa is the capital of trendy hipsterism; and the West End is the out-and-proud gayborhood.

As you wander around these urban haunts, British Columbias natural treasures will be continually calling to you. So join the locals and go with the outdoorsy flow. Youll never forget kayaking at sunset on the glassy waters off Jericho Beach, doing sigh-triggering cycling treks around Stanley Parks picture-perfect seawall, and the time you made your bid for Olympic skiing glory on those alluring edge-of-the-city slopes.

The Museum of Vancouver, at night
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Energetic visitors like to take in the entire 8.8km seawall in , but theres much more to this spectacular urban oasis than its breathtaking, vista-hogging perimeter promenade.

That said, there are few better ways to spend an afternoon in Vancouver than joining the cyclists, wild-eyed rollerbladers and huffing, sweat-soaked joggers for a wind-whipped stroll defined by sea-to-mountain panoramas on one side and dense, gently rustling trees on the other. And if youre wondering how to tell the locals from the tourists, the Vancouverites are the ones who dont bat an eyelid at any of this as they barrel past.

If you dont have the time or the steel-like calves to go the whole hog, or if youre just craving a swift taste of whats on offer, the dense park is also stuffed with enough attractions to keep just about anyone happily occupied. Youll find hyped-up kids making a beeline for a trundle on the to tug the ears of rabbits and outstare the llama (he always wins).

Nearby is the granddaddy of all the parks attractions. The hugely popular isnt just for kids: anyone can stare mesmerized at the alien iridescent jellyfish then watch the playful otters that always look like theyre just about to start chuckling.

No matter where youre from, the park always does a good job of slowing down your heart rate and making you sigh deeply. Its the overwhelming nature fix that triggers this restorative response, especially if you hit in the evening for the kind of spectacular ocean sunset thats guaranteed to make you fall instantly in love with Mother Nature.

Shell also be in your thoughts if you stroll around the tranquil, tree-lined trail encircling on the south bank for a chat with the experts.

And before you go, spare a smile for the man whose moniker graces the park. One of several off-the-beaten-path statues, the bronze figure of Lord Stanley nestles in the trees with its arms outstretched. On the plinth is a legend he uttered on the parks official opening day: To the use and enjoyment of people of all colours, creeds and customs for all time.

for more on Stanley Park.

Botanical Gardens, Stanley Park in autumn
LAWRENCE WORCESTER/LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Originally an industrial enclave built on a pair of man-made sandbanks, has come a long way since grungy little factories crowded its labyrinthine alleyways. Many of the old sheds are still in place but theyre now colonized by independent galleries and artisan studios, as well as shops, theaters and eateries. In fact, the place where Vancouvers hardest workers once toiled has become a leisure-lovers utopia and one of the citys best and most relaxing half-day hangouts.

Artsy types should peruse the galleries lining both sides of Cartwright St near the intersection with Old Bridge St. Dodge the slow-moving cars searching for parking spots and youll find glassblowers, jewelry-makers and the excellent , showcasing everything from abstract pottery to reasonably priced painted mugs.

Just around the corner, Railspur Alley is a hidden backstreet named after the old train line thats still embedded in its sidewalk. The eclectic stores here include cool sake- and hat-makers and the , a friendly coffee shop where artisans rub shoulders with shoppers. Grab a perch on the breeze-licked patio if the weather is amenable and consider an organic ale alternative to a cup of joe.

Hopefully, youll be fairly lost by this stage, which is always the best way to experience the island (if you fall into the water, youve walked too far). Keep exploring among the sheds and alleys expect to find a few smiling artisans grinning at you as your peer through windows then follow the students to for its free-entry gallery.

Try to find the clutch of handsome houseboats bobbing gently a few steps north from here (make an offer if youre tempted to move in) or head in the opposite direction and join the shopping crowds along Johnston St. On your left will be the Net Loft building, lined with tempting little shops such as is on your right. Lined with pyramids of produce, snack-happy deli stands and a cornucopia of craft and food stalls, its an ideal browse-lovers hangout.

Granville Island Public Market on Johnston St, Granville Island, with marina in background
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