My first taste of Tuscan crostini was so magical that I made the second bite smaller in the hope of prolonging the experience. Perhaps it was the sublime simplicity of the three canaps that so intrigued me: a crostini with chicken liver pt, one with shrimp pt, and one with crushed white beans. The ambience was perfectly restorative as we gazed at grape arbors draped with leaves dappled yellow, which stretched toward the Tuscan hills before our open terrazzo. Our restaurant, the Osteria alla Piazza in Castellina in Chianti near Siena, called them i nostri crostini, our canaps, an appellation so personal, so welcoming, that I just knew the food to follow would be memorable. The suave waiter made us feel we were in secure and professional hands. This beautiful perch overlooking the vineyard, at a table with crisp white cloth, was quiet and relaxing as we continued with our passatempo, a little food had before an antipasto. At this moment, it dawned on me why these little foods were important in a culinary experience. It wasnt so much that they opened the appetite, as it was that they were a reassuring affirmation that we were in the caring hands of a good cook who wanted us to be happy, with the expectation of even greater things to come. It was both a preview and an end in itself, if that was to be our fate. And this, I realized, is what the little foods of the Mediterranean are all about: they can be both a beginning and an end in themselves.
A TOUR OF THE MEDITERRANEAN
Around the Mediterranean, these small foods are known as hors doeuvre, amuse-gueules, amuse-bouches, passatempi, antipasti, tapas, mazza, meze, zakuski, qimiyya, and d, not to mention a host of inviting snacks and street foods. These little foods of the Mediterranean are becoming better known in America, where all of them are assumed to be appetizers. An appetizer is a food usually served before a meal as a means of stimulating the appetite, although Joe Moore in The Quotable Cook calls appetizers the little things you keep eating until you lose your appetite. For me an appetizer is a preview, a taste of things to come. Every recipe in this book is an appetizer, but many of these recipes are much more, and much less, because throughout the Mediterranean it is not a shared culinary tradition that the appetite needs an opening, a stimulation. In many cultures, especially in countries of North Africa and the Middle East, the notion of an appetizer is foreign. Keep in mind that the Mediterranean is a vast region, and people come from many different cultures, so even though their cuisines are founded on the same trinity of the olive, the grape, and wheat, they eat differently.
THE MEDITERRANEAN, IN A NUTSHELL
The Mediterranean region is made up of the countries and islands that touch the Mediterranean Sea. These nations include Spain, France, Italy, Croatia, Albania, and Greece on its northern edge, and Turkey, Syria, Lebanon, and Israel to the east; Egypt, Libya, Tunisia, Algeria, and Morocco to the south; and the region is also sprinkled with many islands large and small such as Corsica (French), Sardinia (Italian), Sicily (Italian), Majorca (Spanish), Malta, Crete, Cyprus, and all the Greek Islands. The Mediterranean has hot and dry summers and cool, humid winters. Much of the landscape is hilly and dry, which are ideal conditions for growing the olives, grapes, dates, apricots, pistachios, and other fruits and nuts that feature prominently in Mediterranean cuisine. Being a large inland sea surrounded by three continents, the Mediterranean can boast seafood in a variety of specialties.
This book, then, is not what it appears: a book of appetizers. Instead, it is an introduction to the way people eat in the Mediterranean. The entire psychology of eating is different in the Mediterranean from how it is in the United States. Here we eat to live and in the Mediterranean they live to eat. Here we feed at the trough of the all-you-can-eat restaurant, while in the Mediterranean they would ask, Why would you want to eat all you can eat? Here we guzzle a beer or knock back several martinis on an empty stomach, and in the Mediterranean they are likely to sip wine that complements food. Here a man is admired if he is a human garbage disposal, while in the Mediterranean a man is more likely to be a gourmet, savoring each nibble of food as if he were kissing a womans neck. Here a woman will brag to her date that she doesnt cook, while in the Mediterranean women know the way to a mans heart. And men know the way to a womans heart. Having said that, I understand that this volume will be used both as an appetizer book and as a book on the Mediterranean style of eating, and you can feel comfortable with both approaches.
ONE OF THE WORLDS HEALTHIEST CUISINES
The Mediterranean diet is widely acclaimed for its health benefits. Health benefits such as weight loss, cancer prevention, diabetes control, heart health, and others have been linked to the Mediterranean diet. A Mediterranean diet is something of a misnomer, though. Its not that Mediterranean peoples are on a diet, but rather they have an approach to food, a way of living, a lifestyle, that leads them to eat in a certain way. They dont eat processed foods, they eat together, they eat slowly, and they eat a lot of what the local land offers, namely, lots of vegetables, fruits, nuts, legumes, seeds, and fish, with a liberal use of olive oil. Their daily diet contains a moderate amount of dairy products and low consumption of red meat. Olive oil has an antioxidant content, and monounsaturated fatty acids, a type of healthy fat that has been linked to several health benefits. Research suggests it may help protect against heart disease.
OLIVE OIL AND ITS POTENTIAL AND ACTUAL HEALTH BENEFITS
Its important to remember to take these benefits with a grain of salt (not too much) because very little medical research is conclusive and research studies are ongoing.
1. The predominant fatty acid in olive oil is a monounsaturated fat called oleic acid. Studies suggest that oleic acid reduces inflammation and may even have beneficial effects on genes linked to cancer.
2. Olive oil contains large amounts of antioxidants, which may reduce your risk of chronic diseases such as heart disease.
3. Olive oil has strong anti-inflammatory properties, which may have health benefits.
4. Olive oil may help prevent strokes. Several large studies demonstrate that people who consume olive oil have a much lower risk of stroke.
5. Olive oil is protective against heart disease.
6. Olive oil is not associated with weight gain and obesity.
7. Olive oil may fight Alzheimers disease, but more research is needed.
8. Olive oil may reduce type 2 diabetes risk.