Acknowledgement
I am very much indebted to Makiko Tada, the original creator of the zigzag braid. Throughout this book I have adapted her braid in a variety of directions to create and showcase my own work. My work would not have been possible without the knowledge and skills of Makiko Tada. I thank you Makiko, for the knowledge you so readily share. I accept that any errors contained within this book are all my own.
Chapter 1 - Equipment required
Square top
This is the worktop on which you create the braid. It is a holding platform for thread layout, ease of thread movement and tension placement.
The top is square with sides of between 150 Millimetres (mm) to 250 mm. length. The sides designated top (North) and bottom (South) will have small grooves in them on the top outside edge, spaced about 15mm. apart and 0.5 mm. deep at the outside edge (Covering the whole side a minimum of 7 is required). The other 2 sides designated left (East) and right (West), will each have 3 similar grooves centred. I have found a small round file similar to a chain saw sharpening file easily creates these grooves. There is a hole in the centre of the square (about 30 mm. round or square) which is large enough for the finished braid to go through. The square top requires legs to support it whilst you are braiding. If you prefer to sit whilst braiding then the top of the square top needs to be level with your elbows whilst you are braiding.
Counterweight
This is hung under the braid in progress to create the tension for the braid construction. The counterweight is anything of the required weight (see tension). Fishing weights or coins are ideal. The counterweight is held in a small bag with a string tie, which makes it easy to attach to the braid. Initially the counterweight is attached to the S hook. When the braid is too long to use the S hook, a plastic kitchen bag sealer clamp is a simple way of creating a moveable way of attaching the counterweight to the completed part of the braid, without damaging the braid.
S hook
This is a hook in the shape of the letter S. It is used at the beginning of braiding with the top of the hook inserted over the knot of braiding threads, and the bag with the counterweight attached to the bottom.
Chopstick
This is what it is. The chopstick is used to support the braid when you have stopped braiding. It is inserted under the bottom of the square top, (below the centre hole) and between the threads of the braid, so that it holds the finished braid against the weight of the bobbins. The counterweight can then be removed to avoid stretching the finished braid, should it be left for a few days between braiding. The chopstick is also used to create spaces whilst braiding (see creating loops)
Bobbins
Bobbins serve two purposes.
They hold the unused thread in a convenient form.
They are weighted, so they create the tension.
Ideally you can use specialist kumihimo bobbins. These are made and sold in a variety of weight from 35 to 100grams (Gms.)
EZ bobs (Plastic yarn holders) can be used if they are weighted. I have 45mm EZ bobs which I have screwed through the centre hole a 10 mm. x 30 mm. bolt and added a nut. This weighs 37 Gms. and is sufficient for most fine braids. The EZ bobs sell for about 50cents and bolt and nut for about $1.00 so this is a really cheap way to start.
The bobbin needs a small permanent tie thread attached (a cord of about 1mm diameter and length of 500 mm), to allow the use of all the braiding thread. The ends are tied together and the knotted end is laid over the centre of the bobbin. The looped end is passed through the hole created by the knot and pulled tight
(See diagram 1.)
Yarn / threads
What yarns can you used to braid with? Any thickness of any fibre is the simple answer.
A thread can be a single strand or a number of strands. In this book I indicate the number of strands by the term ends. I use the term thread to indicate the finished bundle, or group of strands that are wound onto the bobbin. A thread on a bobbin made up of 5 strands is designated as 5 ends.
Yarns used for samples are shown as below:
3.1. - One thick, low flexibility, thread used as normal thread
6 x 2 ends of yellow cotton, 5 x 2 ends of blue cotton and I x single clear plastic tubing.
The statement 6 x 2 ends of yellow cotton indicates that there are 6 bobbins, each of which is loaded with 2 strands of yellow cotton.
The statement 5 x 2 ends of blue cotton indicates that there are 5 bobbins, each of which are loaded with 2 strands of blue cotton.
The statement 1 x single clear plastic tubing indicates that there is 1 bobbin, which is loaded with a single strand of clear plastic tubing.
This sample is braided with 12 bobbins.
To identify the types of strands I use cotton and wool where known. Synthetic is used to indicate most manmade fibres, because I do not always know their correct background. Metallic is used to indicate metal look and feel yarns, even if they are synthetic in origin. Plastic tubing is 2 -3 mm diameter and semi flexible, and nylon is fishing line from 0.13 0.80 mm. diameter. Wire is 0.38 0.45 mm diameter.
I tend to use a few finer strands rather than one thick thread (of an equivalent thickness) for each bobbin for the following reasons:
Sewing yarn come in lots of colours, so it is easier to dictate the thickness of the finished braid.
A number of thinner strands are more flexible than one thick strand of the same diameter.
It is much easier to keep each bobbins group of strands the same thickness (if that is required) if you are using a variety of types of strands like fishing line, wire or hand spun yarn.
A finished braid made with threads of 6 ends of sewing yarn each will be finer in depth, and the external points will be closer, than one made with threads of 10 ends.
The starting length of thread you use on each bobbin will result in a finished braid of between 60 75% of the original length. A 1000 mm thread length will produce a finished braid of 600 mm 750 mm. This holds true when all the threads are the same flexibility and thickness. A variety of flexibility and thickness can change this dramatically with the more rigid yarns being used much faster because they do not mesh well with the flexible yarns. I have included for each sample the threads I have used and the number of ends. This gives some insight into the visual effects of types of yarn and number of ends.
HINT - The outside 2 threads on each side (in the initial setup) will be used faster than the centre threads, because they travel further at the turns.
Colour placement of threads and its effect on finished braid .
Braids can be made up of any combination of colours, and positioning of colours and how this affects the visual aspect of the finished braid is one of the enduring joys of braiding. A rearrangement of colour layout, or even placement of a single thread, can make the difference between a good visual braid and a great visual braid. Below are the two most basic colour layouts and alternatives are endless.
AAAAAA
BBBBBB - See tension samples
AAABBB
AAABBB See sample3.8
Chapter 2 - The braiding process
Measuring lengths of threads
I create each bobbin length of thread individually, so measuring can be as simple as measuring with a strand from an outstretched hand to your nose, or outstretched hand to hand. Once the initial distance is established it is a matter of repeating that length by doubling on itself until the required number of ends is created. Another simple method is to use 2 posts that are clamped onto a table at a distance apart of half the length required. The strand is wrapped around both posts for the required number of ends, and then cut at the beginning to give the length and number of ends required. (See diagram 1)
