Carolyn B. Heller - Moon Vancouver & Canadian Rockies Road Trip: Victoria, Banff, Jasper, Calgary, the Okanagan, Whistler & the Sea-to-Sky Highway

CAROLYN B. HELLER

Snowy peaks, rushing rivers, and vineyard-lined valleys. Elaborate totem poles rising from the rainforest. Waterfront cities buzzing with outdoor cafs. Whales breaching and seals sunning just offshore. Clichs? Perhaps. But in Canadas most naturally spectacular region, these clichs are true. Stretching from Vancouver to the Rockies, western Canada is tailor-made for a road trip.

In Vancouver, an active city bordering the mountains and the sea, begin your trip by strolling or cycling through a 1,000-acre (400-hectare) rainforest park and exploring diverse cultures, from the original aboriginal inhabitants to modern-day communities that reflect the citys position on the Pacific Rim.

A 90-minute ferry ride across the Strait of Georgia, Victoria retains its British roots even as it has morphed into a contemporary city. Its now known as much for its locally produced wine, beer, and spirits as for its tradition of afternoon tea. Beyond Victoria, opportunities abound for exploring Vancouver Islands forests, waterways, and dramatic coastal regions.

Back on the mainland, the Sea-to-Sky Highway is one of Canadas most beautiful short drives, winding along the coast between Vancouver and Whistler. North Americas largest winter sports mecca, Whistler is nearly as busy in spring, summer, and fall, with hikers, cyclists, and other adventurers exploring the peaks and lakes.

Travel east from Vancouver to the sunny Okanagan Valley, with its string of freshwater lakes, orchards, and Canadas only desertand more than 200 wineries lining its back roads.

From the Okanagan, head to the Rocky Mountains. The Trans-Canada Highway passes through several of British Columbias mountain national parks, including Mount Revelstoke, Glacier, Yoho, and Kootenay, each more dramatic than the last.

Just across the provincial border in Alberta are the marquee destinations of any western Canada road trip: Banff, Lake Louise, and Jasper. The regions best scenic drive takes you along the Icefields Parkway, with its incredibly blue lakes and the largest area of glacial ice in the Canadian Rockies.

Once youve had your fill of hiking, rafting, and savoring the mountain vistas, continue on to the gateway city of Calgary, which not only hosts Canadas biggest annual cowboy party but also offers distinctive museums and a pretty riverfront promenade. Or follow the southern route back toward Vancouver, exploring the Kootenays funky mountain towns and detouring along B.C.s Hot Springs Highway.

From the ocean to the mountains, theres plenty to experience, taste, and enjoy. Lets hit the road.

The rainforest meets the city in Vancouver, where massive Stanley Park and forests of glass-and-steel skyscrapers populate the downtown peninsula. The North Shore Mountains overlook the city skyline, while the sea hugs the city, with sandy beaches just steps from urban hotels. Yet this outdoor-oriented metropolis has plenty of culture as well, reflecting its First Nations heritage (the totem poles at the Museum of Anthropology are a must-see) and its contemporary Pacific Rim society. Granville Island, Gastown, and Kitsilano draw food-lovers to their locally focused restaurants, while the suburb of Richmond has some of the best Chinese food outside China. With its well-connected international airport and location just north of the U.S. border, 145 miles (230 kilometers) from Seattle, Vancouver is a convenient starting point for trips along the British Columbia coast and east to the Canadian Rockies.

Across the Strait of Georgia at the southern tip of Vancouver Island, British Columbias waterfront capital city of Victoria retains elements of its British heritagevisiting the world-class Butchart Gardens and taking afternoon tea at the grand Fairmont Empress are still beloved traditions for visitorseven as this increasingly cosmopolitan community booms with new restaurants and cocktail bars. Elsewhere on the island, you can snorkel with seals, take a bear-watching tour, or watch the waves crash along the Pacific coast.

One of western Canadas most spectacular short drives, the Sea-to-Sky Highway connects Vancouver to the resort town of Whistler. Known for winter sports, Whistler has plenty to do in warmer weather, too, from riding the gondolas into the mountains, to hiking, cycling, and canoeing, to exploring the regions aboriginal heritage.

As you drive east from Vancouver and cross the Coast Mountains, you leave behind the green coastal rainforest and wind through the desert-like hills of British Columbias interior. Here, the sunny city of Kamloops makes a convenient stopover point midway between Vancouver and the Rockies, with several small museums and an emerging wine industry. Continue east on the Trans-Canada Highway to a trio of national parks, Mount Revelstoke, Glacier, and Yoho, where you can hike, paddle the glacier-fed lakes, or enjoy the mountain scenery. Base yourself in towns like Revelstoke or Golden (only Yoho National Park has accommodations) and enjoy their cafs, restaurants, and comfortable lodgings.

Banff National Park is a highlight of any Canadian Rockies road trip, with dramatic mountain peaks and natural hot springs, the sparkling blue Lake Louise, and more than 1,000 miles (1,600 kilometers) of hiking paths. Within the boundaries of Canadas first national park, the town of Banff bustles with restaurants, museums, and shops, and though its sidewalks can feel as jammed as New York Citys during the busy summer season, theres always plenty of space out on the trails.