Christopher P. Baker - Moon Spotlight Costa Ricas Caribbean Coast: Including San José

youth with fresh fish, Cahuita.

Costa Ricas Caribbean coast extends some 200 kilometers (120 miles) from Nicaragua to Panam. The zonewholly within Limn Provinceis divided into two distinct regions.

North of Puerto Limn, the port city midway down the coast, is a long, straight coastal strip backed by a broad alluvial plain cut through by the Tortuguero Canals, an inland waterway that parallels the coast all the way to the Nicaraguan border. Crocodiles, caimans, monkeys, sloths, and exotic birds can be seen from the tour boats that carry passengers through the rainforest-lined canals and freshwater lagoons culminating in Parque Nacional Tortuguero and Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Barra del Colorado, a national wildlife refuge. A few roads penetrate to the northern frontier far inland of the coast, but they are often impassable except for brief periods in the dry season. For locals, motorized canoes (cayucos or canoas) and water taxis are the main means of getting around the swampy waterways.

South of Puerto Limn is the Talamanca coast, a narrow coastal plain broken by occasional headlands and coral reefs and backed by the looming Cordillera Talamanca. A succession of sandy shores leads the eye toward Panam. The zone is popular with surfers.

The coast is sparsely settled, with tiny villages spaced far apart. Except for the coastal town of Puerto Limn, what few villages lie along the coast are ramshackle and beaten by tropical storms, though given a boost by booming tourism. Life along the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica is fundamentally different than in the rest of the country. Life is lived at an easy pace. It may take you a few days to get in the groove. Dont expect things to happen at the snap of your fingers.

The Afro-Caribbean costeos (coast dwellers), who form approximately one-third of Limn Provinces population of 250,000, have little in common with the sponyamonthe Spaniard man, or highland mestizo, who represents the conservative Latin American culture. More than anywhere else in Costa Rica, the peoples of the Caribbean coast reflect a mingling of races and cultures. There are Creoles of mixed African and European descent; Caribs, whose ancestors were African and indigenous Caribbean; mestizos, of mixed Spanish and Amerindian blood; more Chinese than one might expect; and, living in the foothills of the Talamancas, approximately 5,000 Bribr and Cabecar indigenous people.

Look for S to find recommended sights, activities, dining, and lodging.

S Rainforest Aerial Tram: A ride through the rainforest canopy on this ski lift-style tram provides a fabulous introduction to tropical ecology, while a serpentarium and other wildlife exhibits display some of the creatures you may be lucky enough to see on the ride ().

S Tortuguero National Park: Wildlife awaits in this watery world where everyone gets around by boat. The beach is a prime nesting site for marine turtles, the national park is tops for bird-watching and animal-viewing, and the village is a funky charmer ().

S Sloth Sanctuary: The worlds only such reserve lets you get up close to these endearing Muppet-like creatures ().

S Cahuita: Popular with the offbeat crowd, this small village has heaps of character. Several eateries serve spicy local cuisine, and Parque Nacional Cahuita offers great beaches, diverse wildlife, and a small coral reef ().

S Puerto Viejo: Drawing surfers and latter-day hippies, this somnolent village has tremendous budget accommodations. Activities include horseback riding and hikes to indigenous villages, and beautiful beaches run south for miles ().

S Jaguar Rescue Center: This well-run animal rescue center offers guided toursa chance to hold a monkey in your hand and gain a greater appreciation for Costa Ricas embattled wildlife ().

S Gandoca-Manzanillo National Wildlife Refuge: This reserve spans several ecosystems teeming with animal life, from crocodiles to monkeys and manatees. Turtles also come ashore to lay eggs ().

The early settlers of the coast were British pirates, smugglers, log-cutters, and their slaves, who brought their own Caribbean dialects with words that are still used today. During the late 19th century, increasing numbers of English-speaking Afro-Caribbean familiespredominantly from Jamaicacame to build and work the Atlantic Railroad and banana plantations, eventually settling and infusing the local dialect with the lilting parochial patois phrases familiar to travelers in the West Indies. Afro-Caribbean influences are also notable in the regional cuisine and in the Rastafarians one meets in Cahuita and Puerto Viejo. Some of the young Afro-Caribbean males here appear sullen and lackadaisical, even antagonistic; some seem to harbor a resentment of white visitors. But most locals have hearts of gold, and theres a strong, mutually supportive community that travelers may not easily see. (Paula Palmers What Happen: A Folk History of Costa Ricas Talamanca Coast and Waapin Man provide insight into the traditional Creole culture of the area.)

The Caribbean coast is generally hot and exceedingly wet, averaging 300 to 500 centimeters (120-200 inches) of rain annually. Except for September and October, the region has no real dry season and endures a wet season in which the rainfall can exceed 100 centimeters (39 inches) per month. Rains peak from May to August and again in December and January, when sudden storms blow in, bowing down the coconut palms, deluging the Talamancas, and causing frequent flooding and closures of the road south of Limn.

Most people stay at least one week to get in the groove and make the most of the southern Caribbeans offbeat offerings. Many visitors arrive with no schedule, intent on kicking it until the money runs out or they get an urge to move on. This is particularly so of the laid-back hamlets of Cahuita and Puerto Viejo, budget havens popular with surfers, tie-dyed backpackers, and those seeking immersion in Creole culture.

Laguna Penitencia, Tortuguero