Suzanne Barr - My Ackee Tree: A Chefs Memoir of Finding Home in the Kitchen
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- Book:My Ackee Tree: A Chefs Memoir of Finding Home in the Kitchen
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- Year:2022
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My Ackee Tree: A Chefs Memoir of Finding Home in the Kitchen: summary, description and annotation
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Suzanne Barrs journey to become a chef started when she was 30. Her mother was diagnosed with cancer and she moved home to Florida to take care of her. Suzanne escorted her mother to doctors appointments, bathed her, and kept her company, but the hardest part of the experience was that she didnt know how to cook for her. She didnt even know where to begin.
Fast-forward to the summer of 2017 when Suzanne became the inaugural Chef-in-Residence at the Gladstone Hotel in Toronto. She wanted to create a menu that represented who she was as a chef and it emerged as a love letter to her mother. Her Rite of Passage Menu, as she called it, changed her. It started her on a journey that has brought her closer to her mother, to her ancestors, and to her Jamaican heritage.
But a lot has happened before and since.
My Ackee Tree tells the story of a woman who is always on the move, always seeking; who battles the stereotypes of being a Black female cook to become a culinary star in an industry beset by dated practices and landlords with too much power. From the ackee tree in front of her childhood home, through New York City, Atlanta, Hawaii, the Hamptons, and France, Suzanne takes us on her unpredictable journey, and at every turn, she finds light and comfort in the kitchen. Told in a voice as fresh and honest as her cooking, My Ackee Tree is a celebration of creativity, soul searching, and motherhood that asks, How can I keep the things I love?
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Suzanne Barr
Who do I want to thank?
Thank you, my love. Johnnie, our story has a new home, beginning with Nice, France. Your patience and your encouragement helped to push me to the finish line. Thank you! I love you so deeply. Our next journey is just beginning with Myles.
My precious baby boy Mylessy: Mummy is always supporting and watching. This book is for you to understand my beginnings and my many adventures.
My dearest Tanya. You are more than my sister. You are my best friend, my mentor, my role model, my protector. Thank you to Wayne. My heart fills with love knowing you withstood all the odds against you and prevailed to become an incredible man. Thank you to Headley for finding us. You completed our family. We welcomed the love and continued together.
Thank you to my grandmothers for your hands, sense of flavour, the right amount in a pinch, and for your love of Jamaican cooking. Thank you to Ivy, Hilgay, Nicole, Charmaine, Sonia, Vernal, Raymond, and the many family members, friends, and folks I shared this journey with. Your memories and stories helped to uncover the missing pieces and complete the stories I longed to know and appreciate. With all of your support and encouragement, walking this path never felt lonely or intimidating. It is with so much joy and happiness that I send this book out into the universe. These are the memories and moments from my life, my family, and my ancestors, and future dreams.
Amanda, thank you for the gift that would ultimately lead me down this path to becoming a chef.
To Maxine Waters for showing me the way forward as a Black woman, an advocate, and a dreamer.
Abel, thank you for showing me how to put me on a plate and share my truth through my food, family, memories, and traditions. Thank you, Lisa, for giving me my first kitchen job in New York City and for teaching me about service and how to dominate as a female force in the kitchen. Thank you to my angel investor, Ben, for believing that I could make my dream a reality.
To the teams of talented humans at Saturday Dinette, The Gladstone Hotel, Sand and Pearl, Avling Brewery, and True True Diner, your commitment and dedication will always motivate me. Thank you for trusting me to lead you in the kitchen. I appreciate you sharing that space and doing that dance!
Dearest Michael, thank you for walking into Saturday Dinette and allowing us to feed you. You changed our whole trajectory. We went from a little Dinette to part of a growing movement.
To Laura, Nicole, Sam, Kamoy and Olivia: your commitment to this project and your desire to bring this story to life is on each page. Thank you and congratulations! We did it!
To Miriam, Joshna, Charlotte, Kamoy, Sheena and SH: thank you for blessing these recipes with your Midas touch and coming along for the ride.
Thank you to Suzanne Hancock. With your bravery and belief in my story, we created this beautiful work together. Thank you for walking this path with me and for honouring the work.
Suzanne Hancock
Deep thanks to Suzanne Barr for making Niceys apple pie with me all those years ago. It was the first delicious step on this journey.
This process has been a co-creation from the beginning. Suzanne and I spent hundreds of hours talking and writing. Id listen to her stories and write them down. Then shed write her stories and wed combine them with the pieces that Id written. Telling ones story is the ultimate gift, and I feel incredibly grateful Suzanne trusted me to help tell hers.
Huge thanks to Nicole Winstanley for believing in this work from the beginning and for helping us make this dream a reality. Laura Dosky, thank you for being an outstanding editor. Your enthusiasm, skillful suggestions and hard work over the past two years have made this book sing.
Thanks to Suzanne Robertson for allowing us to use her gorgeous images.
Thanks to Colin McAdam for his limitless love, countless suggestions, and constant support. To Lola McAdam for her patience and her bright eyes.
AUTHORS NOTE
by Suzanne Barr
Dear readers, please understand that names of some of the subjects have been changed to protect their identity.
Some of the stories shared are from a direct source, as I was able to interview certain people. I wanted their voices to be heard in the book. The rest reflects my memory of events.
If certain names and specific dates are not mentioned, it was our intention to keep the narrative moving and to focus on the larger story.
It is an honour and a gift to have the opportunity to share my story unapologetically. And to allow the smells, laughter, recipes, and memories to tell my truths.
Likkle More
Makes about 3 cups (750 mL)
Sometimes the welcome can be about surprise as much as comfort. You find a home in a place you least expect. In Kauai, at Blossoming Lotus, every table is given a bowl of these seeds as a greeting. Licorice. Salt. A hint of caramel. A mixture of flavours releasing sweetness and umami in perfect balance. I added the macadamia nuts as a way to honour Hawaii, one of my favourite places on earth. These seeds and nuts open the palate, and eating a handful brings me right back to the deep green beauty of Kapaa. Enjoy Welcoming Seeds on their own or on top of a salad.
1 tablespoon (15 mL) fennel seeds
2 cups (500 mL) raw pepitas or pumpkin seeds
1 cup (250 mL) macadamia nuts
2 tablespoons (30 mL) pure maple syrup
2 tablespoons (30 mL) tamari
teaspoon (1 mL) ground cayenne pepper
2 teaspoons (10 mL) raw sesame seeds
teaspoon (2 mL) sea salt
Preheat the oven to 300F (150C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
In a dry medium skillet over high heat, lightly toast the fennel seeds until fragrant, about 1 minute. Transfer to a mortar or spice grinder and lightly grind the seeds.
In a large bowl, place the crushed fennel seeds, pepitas, macadamia nuts, maple syrup, tamari, and cayenne. Toss until the seeds and nuts are evenly coated in the liquid.
Spread the seed and nut mixture in an even layer on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 10 minutes. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and lightly toss the mixture, moving the nuts and seeds in the middle of the baking sheet toward the outside and vice versa. Bake for an additional 8 to 10 minutes, or until evenly browned and toasted.
As soon as you remove the Welcoming Seeds from the oven, sprinkle with the sesame seeds and salt. Toss to combine. Add more salt if desired. Let cool before serving.
Leftover Welcoming Seeds can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 14 days.
Serves 4 to 6
The taste of seawater on your lips. The smell of pimento wood being readied in the fire. The coconuts are ripe. Crack one on a rock and use the shell to scrape the flesh. This soup celebrates history, culture, and the simplicity of the coconut: fruit, nut, and seed. It combines land and seadried sea moss is one of the main ingredients. Its the perfect soup for a hot, humid afternoon. The tanginess of the lime compote will quench your thirst. Sweet. Nutty. Creamy. Decadent. Serve it in a coconut shell.
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