Helene Siegel - Totally Nuts Cookbook

Copyright 1997 by Helene Siegel.
Illustrations copyright 1997 by Carolyn Vibbert.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system without permission in writing.

The Totally Nuts Cookbook is produced by becker&mayer!, Ltd.

Interior design: Susan Hernday
Interior illustrations: Carolyn Vibbert

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Siegel, Helene.
The Totally Nuts Cookbook / by Helene Siegel; illustrated by Caroline Vibbert.
p. cm.
ISBN 0-89087-835-8
eBook ISBN: 978-0-8041-5313-3
1. Cookery (Nuts) I. Title.
TX814.S54 1997 97-24699
641.645dc21

Celestial Arts Publishing
P.O. Box 7123
Berkeley, CA 94707

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v3.1

S OMETIMES YOU FEEL LIKE A NUT

N uts are as ancient as civilization itselfevidence of almonds and pistachios dating back 10,000 years has been found in a village in eastern Turkey, and references to both can be found in the Bible.

The appeal of nuts for the earliest people is not difficult to imagine. Nuts are easy to gather and store. Their shells offer natural protection and they can be stored without preservatives against future famine or other catastrophe.

Why, in late 20th-century America, with a dozen varieties of frozen waffles in the supermarket, bagels at the corner store, and pizza just a phone call away, do nuts still appeal? Nuts toasted and tossed into a salad or baked into a cookie add that extra dollop of flavor and richness our appetites crave. Not to mention the crunch factor!

Here in California, a wide variety of high-quality nuts is available, shelled and ready for cooking year round. I like to stock my freezer with pecans, walnuts, pine nuts, a few types of almonds, shredded coconut, and a small bag of macadamias for impromptu baking. For a quick after-school snack, I sometimes place a selection of nuts, coconut, and dried fruits (raisins, cranberries, cherries, apricots) on a cutting board for the kids to create their own trail mix. Voil, a healthy treat!

Nuts are always wonderful, but in baking they are irreplaceable. No doubt about it, the world would be a thinner place without our pecan pies, chocolate-covered almonds, walnut-stuffed brownies, and delicate almond pastries and tarts. So begin with dessert, and work your way backward. Sounds nutty, but what the hell, go for it!

What Is a Nut?

True nuts grow on trees. A nut is a fruit surrounded by a dry, hard shell that must be cracked open to release the lone kernel, or nut. Though commonly considered as such, coconuts, pine nuts, and peanuts are not true nuts.

The earthiness of lentils, radishes, and nuts combines beautifully in this soul-satisfying winter salad.

1 cup small green lentils

water to cover

large red onion, chopped

cup trimmed, diced radishes

1 cup walnuts, toasted and chopped

cup red wine vinegar

teaspoon Dijon mustard

cup olive oil

salt and freshly ground pepper

cup crumbled feta cheese

Rinse the lentils, and place in a medium saucepan. Generously cover with water. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook, uncovered, about 25 minutes, until done.

Meanwhile, place the onion, radishes, and walnuts in a large bowl. In a small bowl, whisk together the red wine vinegar, mustard, oil, salt, and pepper, and reserve.

Strain the warm lentils, and transfer to bowl with nuts. Toss, pour on dressing, and toss again to coat evenly. Sprinkle with feta, mix, and serve or chill. Lentil salad will keep about 2 days in the refrigerator. Bring back to room temperature before serving.

S ERVES 6 TO 8

Toasting Nuts

Almost all nuts benefit from a quick toasting to bring their oils to the surface and develop flavor. Spread nuts on a baking sheet, and toast in a 350-degree F oven, shaking the pan occasionally, until nuts are golden and fragrant, 7 to 15 minutes. Nuts can also be toasted in a dry pan over medium-low heat on the stovetop. Stay nearby, and keep shaking the pan to toast evenly and prevent scorching.

A delicate fruit and nut salad like this is a nice beginning for a romantic dinner for two.

2 teaspoons butter

1 pear, peeled, cored, and halved lengthwise

1 large Belgian endive, washed and sliced

1 head frise lettuce, washed and torn

cup lemon juice

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 teaspoon honey

cup vegetable oil

salt

cup hazelnuts, toasted, peeled, and roughly chopped

Preheat oven to 400 degrees F.

Place butter in a small ceramic roasting pan, and place in the oven to melt. Swirl to coat pan, and add pear halves. Turn pears to coat evenly, and bake, uncovered, 30 to 40 minutes, until soft. Keep warm.

Combine the endive and frise in bowl. In another small bowl, whisk together lemon juice, vinegar, honey, oil, and salt. Pour all but about 3 tablespoons dressing over salad, and toss to coat. Arrange salad on two serving plates.

Thinly slice warm pears lengthwise, leaving stem end attached. Fan slices and place over each salad. Sprinkle each with nuts. Spoon remaining dressing over pears and nuts. Serve immediately.

S ERVES 2

Storing Nuts

Store all shelled nuts in an airtight container in the freezer. If fresh when purchased, nuts can keep as long as a year. They can be used directly from the freezer for baking, without defrosting.

An elegant salad like this one is a good opportunity to use that high quality nut oil you may be saving in the pantry.

12 ounces French green beans, trimmed

salt

3 tablespoons heavy cream

1 tablespoon hazelnut, walnut, or peanut oil

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

juice of lemon

freshly ground pepper

cup hazelnuts

Blanch the beans in boiling salted water about 4 minutes, or microwave with about 1 tablespoon water in a covered dish 2 minutes at full power. Drain, rinse with cold water, and pat dry. Transfer beans to bowl or serving dish, and chill.

In a small bowl, whisk together cream, nut oil, mustard, lemon, salt, and pepper. Pour over the beans. Toss to coat evenly.