Glenn Andrews - Basic Bread Baking

Glenn Andrews

Breads my greatest weakness. There are worse ones, I know, though most of them dont show up on your hips the way bread can.

Theres something so elemental about a good bread. Its satisfying! It makes you feel well fed. And if its a bread youve made yourself, you also feel a lovely sense of gratification. In addition, you can make breads youll never find in any store or bakery and, of course, you can brag to your friends.

Here youll find basic breads white, whole wheat, and so on and also some variations and specialty breads. Almost all are made with yeast; most are basic breads of one sort or another. Two (Cinnamon Raisin Bread and Monkey Bread) would come under the heading of sweet breads.

For those who arent fond of kneading, there are some batter breads, yeast breads that do not require any muscle-building exercise. (Some cherish the kneading process as a way to get rid of anxieties or frustrations, or at the very least to build their biceps. Others and these are the ones who buy breadmakers and food processors are fond of any way of making things easier.) And finally, theres Kaleidoscope Bread, an amazing concoction that proves that not all great breads are leavened.

But first youll find a description of the key ingredients used in breadmaking and a section on bread-making techniques.

At the very end, youll find a few sources for grains, flours, mills, and all sort of other things thatll come in handy for the breadmaking cook.

The ingredients you use can make the difference between spectacular breads and those that are just ho-hum. The secret to spectacular is the quality of the ingredients. For example, most people can taste the differences in flavor among fresh squeezed orange juice, orange juice in a carton, and orange juice from concentrate. For those who really like orange juice, the difference is huge. If you are taking the time and making the effort to make bread, begin with the best quality ingredients. And freshness, whether in yeast, spices, herbs, or even flour, does matter. The proof will be in the taste.

Flour. Ideally, you should get your whole-grain flours (including cornmeal) freshly milled. If youre lucky, you will have a local food co-op or health-food store that grinds flours in-store and keeps them refrigerated. Otherwise, buy the best quality you can find.

Gluten

Gluten is a substance created when the protein in wheat flour is combined with a liquid. The amount of protein in the flour governs the amount of gluten. You can purchase boxes of wheat gluten to add to recipes especially whole-grain recipes to help them rise better. The way gluten works is that it forms an elastic network (think kitchen sponge here) that traps the carbon dioxide being released by the yeast. This is what makes your bread rise.

Not all white flours are created equal. Even among national brands, the amount of gluten and the quality of the flour vary. Try using bread flour for your baking. It is richer in gluten. (The package may say, Bread flour for machines. Ignore this! You dont need a machine to use these flours.) Other than bread flour, by far the best to use is unbleached white, but measuring it is sometimes difficult. Start by using a little less than the recipe calls for, then keep adding until you get a perfect dough. (See Kneading on page 5 for a description of a perfect dough.) On page 32, youll find sources for various flours (millet, rice, and more), whole grains, and mills for grinding them.

Yeast. Yeast is a tiny, one-celled living plant, an organism whose role in breadmaking is to feed on sugars and release carbon dioxide. This process causes your bread to rise. You dont even need sugar, as flour can provide all the food the yeast needs to work, but a bit of sugar mixed in the liquid in the proofing stage gives the yeast a fast start.

Long ago, the only yeast available was in cake form. Today, youll find it in that form occasionally, but usually what youll see is called active, dry yeast. You can buy it in packets or (at health-food stores and co-ops) in bulk. Theres also Rapid Rise yeast, which seems very vigorous. (Ignore the package instructions and just use it as you would any other dry yeast.) One package of dry yeast contains about 2 teaspoons.

You can also find little 4-ounce (115 g) jars of yeast in most supermarkets. These are labeled as being for use in bread machines, but can be used in any bread-making situation. Keep the little jar, and all other types of yeast, in your refrigerator.

Liquid. Use whatever the recipe calls for. Water is the liquid used in most breads, but be sure its good-tasting water. If you have to buy bottled springwater to make your breads, its worth it to avoid any off tastes. If you are feeling inventive, you can experiment with using different liquids. Try fruit juice in sweet breads, beer in herb breads, or substitute milk.

Almost more important than choosing what liquid you use is making sure the liquid is the correct temperature. Yeast works only at the proper temperature, and its important that the liquid used in the proofing process be at the right temperature. Too cool, and the breadmaking will be slowed down; too hot, and the yeast will be killed! The temperature you want is between 95 and 110F (3543C) just a comfortable lukewarm.

Sweeteners. Yeast thrives on sugar, so most breads contain at least a little bit of it, usually added when the yeast is proofing. Honey can be substituted for up to a tablespoon of sugar, but do not use artificial sweeteners! When molasses is added, as in Anadama Batter Bread (page 27), its primarily for its great, unique taste.

Fat. If butter is called for, use just that butter. Margarine is not suitable for breadmaking (though I have heard that its widely used in Denmark in their pastries). The only exception to this rule is Challah (pages 1516).

If its olive oil thats called for, use extra virgin, which is the purest and has the best taste. When you want to grease a pan, you can use any fat you like; if you prefer, you can also use a nonfat cooking spray (available in most grocery stores).

Eggs. Use size large. Using other sizes of egg can throw off the balance of many recipes.

Salt. Any salt will do, but sea salt is lovely. Dont skimp here. Under-salted bread will leave you feeling that something is missing from the taste, and the amount of salt in each slice of bread is actually quite small.

The same techniques are used to make most yeast breads: proofing, combining the ingredients, kneading, rising, shaping, baking, and cooling.

Proofing has two functions it gets the yeast off and running, and its the best way to be sure that the yeast is still active. To proof, stir the yeast into lukewarm (95 to 110F; 3543C) water, usually along with a little sugar or other sweetener, and let it sit for 5 minutes, or until foamy. If you dont see any signs of life after 5 minutes, your yeast is dead. Toss it out and start over with a new supply.

Combining the ingredients