Lonely Planet - Lonely Planet Puerto Rico: Regional Guide

Welcome to Puerto Rico: endless sand, swashbuckling history lessons and wildly diverse tropical terrain. The sun-washed backyard of the USA is a place locals fittingly call the Island of enchantment

Puerto Rico is the fodder of many a Caribbean daydream for good reason: this natural jewel box can satisfy the lethargic beach bum, the sunrise rainforest explorer and the budding big-wave surfer all in a long weekend. Its coral reefs host a riot of tropical fish, its limestone caves in the misty central mountains resound with the chirp of coqu frogs, and its unique collection of forests some of the wettest and driest in the Caribbean harbor some of the rarest birds in the world. Its hardly undiscovered youll have plenty of company navigating the dripping trails of El Yunque, the perfect waves in Rincn and sunning yourself on some of the best beaches in the world but with creativity and plucky DIY spirit, youll find a little piece of this tropical heaven all for yourself.

Those curious enough to look beyond the borders of San Juans condo developments and congested highways reap big rewards from the vibrant culture of this island. Youll get a whiff of it in the tempting smoke from a roasting pig that rises from a roadside lechonera (eatery specializing in suckling pig). Youll hear it in the distorted thump of a rowdy, beer-soaked weekend in Boquern or the polyrhythmic patter of a salsa beat. Youll see it down the quiet hallways of museums celebrating everything from failed revolution to classical European painting. Dont be put off by the fast-food chains or unsightly trappings of modern mainland America Puerto Rican traditions have been shaped by generations of cultural synthesis, celebration and setback, and it emerges today as distinct, spirited and indomitableif youre willing to look for it.

Puerto Ricos history lessons told through cannon fire and colonization, repression and revolt offer a palpable sense of the islands dynamic past. Theres a bit of legend in every direction: from the fortress walls pocked by cannon fire to the crumbling towers of the sugar refineries that once fired the islands economy. Free-trading colonialists built sparkling European plazas along streets of the harbor cities, while political revolutionaries plotted revolt in misty villages along the twisting spine of the central mountains. Those with a passion for history can wander precolonial Tano ball courts or steamy coffee plantations, but even if your interest is scant, its hard not to get caught up in Puerto Ricos fascinating story. While hasty development and cycles of boom and bust leave this island a checkerboard of preservation, the most amazing thing about this islands past is the beguiling weave it creates with the present.

Big Tree Trail (), El Yunque
JOHN ELK III / LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Even those limited to a quick visit find it easy to fall under the beguiling spells of Old San Juans () cobblestone streets, pastel-painted colonial buildings and grand fortresses. From the ramparts of El Morro, the allure of this place is evident in every direction from the labyrinth of crooked streets to the endless sparkle of the Atlantic. By day, lose yourself in historical stories of blood and bombast; by night, float along in crowds of giggling tourists and rowdy locals.

SANTIAGO FDEZ FUENTES / AGE FOTOSTOCK / PHOTOLIBRARY

Beaches

The rub of sand between your toes, the brilliant sparkle of turquoise water and the rhythmic shush of cresting waves Puerto Ricos beaches have the qualities of a daydream. Take your pick from the golden, crescent-shaped heaven of Playa Flamenco (), Puerto Ricos little slice of Brazil; the secluded, mangrove-shaded hideaways in the south or the roaring surf of the west.

STEVE SIMONSEN / LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Catch Some Bisbol

The bleachers at island bisbol (baseball; ) stadiums reveal a lot more than nine innings of play its a vantage on the fickle Caribbean love affair with this sport . Puerto Ricans may never fill the oversized stadiums that dot the island, but the low-key games and dirt-cheap tickets get fans right up in the action. Expect to witness a face-off between upstart farm leaguers looking for their big shot and fading stars of the Major League Baseball looking to go out in a blaze of glory.

CHRISTOPHE ELISE/ICON SMI/CORBIS

Rum Cocktails at Sunset

If theres an elixir to help those sunsets imprint your memory forever, it likely comes in a tall, cold glass. From the pia coladas with toy umbrellas to the everymans Cuba libre (rum and Coke with a wedge of lime) youd be remiss to leave King Sugar without savoring a rum cocktail during a spectacular sunset. Find a comfortable perch in the west such as Rincns ultrachill surfer hangout, Tamboo Tavern ( ) and sip a taste of paradise.

JERRY ALEXANDER / LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Bioluminescent Bays

Few experiences can inspire the awe of floating in inky waves under a canopy of stars and witnessing one of natures most tactile magic tricks: the otherworldly sparkle of bioluminescent waters. Swimming or kayaking into Puerto Ricos bioluminescent bays and seeing the jeweled flicker of water drip from your hands or illuminate a paddle stroke promises an experience of profound wonder. The bioluminescent waters in the bays of Vieques ( ; pictured) reveal the phenomenon at its most fantastic.

THOMAS R. FLETCHER / ALAMY

Las Cabezas de San Juan Reserva Natural El Faro