THE REAL
JERKTHE REAL
JERK NEW
CARIBBEAN
CUISINE LILY & ED POTTINGER
THE REAL JERK: New Caribbean Cuisine
Copyright 2002 by Lily & Ed Pottinger Third printing: 2007 All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or used in any form by any meansgraphic, electronic or mechanicalwithout the prior written permission of the publisher, except by a reviewer, who may use brief excerpts in a review, or in the case of photocopying, a license from the Canadian Copyright Licensing Agency. ARSENAL PULP PRESS
Suite 101-211 East Georgia Street,
Vancouver, BC V6A 1Z6
arsenalpulp.com The publisher gratefully acknowledges the support of the Government of Canada through the Book Publishing Industry Development Program for its publishing activities. Book and cover design by Lisa Eng-Lodge
Production assistance by Judy Yeung
Edited by Melva McLean with Brian Lam
Food photography by Greg Athans
Food styling by Nathan Fong
Printed and bound in Canada The authors and publisher assert that the information contained in this book is true and complete to the best of their knowledge. All recommendations are made without guarantee on the part of the authors and Arsenal Pulp Press. The authors and publisher disclaim any liability in connection with the use of this information.
For more information, contact the publisher. NATIONAL LIBRARY OF CANADA CATALOGUING IN PUBLICATION DATA:
Pottinger, Lily
The Real Jerk ISBN 1-55152-115-6 1. Cookery, Caribbean. 2. Real Jerk (Restaurant) I. II. II.
Title.
TX716.A1P67 2002 641.509713541 C2002-910832-2 ISBN 13 978-1-55152-115-2 CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS There are so many people to thank for showing their support and whom we have come to know and respect and appreciate. We would like to thank God for his many blessings, all the doors he has open and for the paths he has led us. We would also like to thank our wonderful customers for their support over the past eighteen years; Fred Challenger, who gave us a place to live when we couldnt find one; Greg Lawson, for his moral support; Ann Pottinger, for her encouragement, and for being a supportive family member; to mama Carmen Cole and mom Olive Gouldbourne, for their continuous prayers and open ears; Will and Siva, for their input; and all the great Real Jerk staff. We would like to give special thanks to Miss P, chef at The Real Jerk, who has never failed to give 100 percent, and Natalie Williams, who drives us crazy but never fails to deliver the goods, for her contributions to this book and for being a loyal employee. We would also like to recognize those whose help in the early days of the Jerk has never been forgotten: Paula Munch and Reenie Keely, for designing the Jerk, and Easy Ed, who loaned us $300 for the restaurant the day we met him. Also, in 1996, when we were faced with a do-or-die situation, a couple whom we had known briefly, Mike and Susie Kalintiz, blessed us in an incredible way, and we will always be indebted to them for their kindness.
Ed and I are delighted to give our gratitude to Blaine Kyllo, whose suggestion for this book has finally given me the ability to start and finish a project for the first time. (I am the jack-of-all-trades, but master of none!) Thanks, Blaine. We would also like to say a special thank you to Brian Lam, Mel McLean, and the Arsenal Pulp Press family for their trust, patience, and giving us this opportunity to present The RealJerk to you. Last but not least, we thank our three wonderful children, Troy, Cleigh, and June, whom God blessed us with, and who provide us with the inspiration to get up and go go every day And for all those who have crossed our paths and provided positive inspiration: Irie!LILY: I was the third child in a family of ten. I was an independent-minded and happy child, and I learned at an early age that I would probably have to work hard if I was going to be successful. By the age of six, I was already helping with washing, cooking, farming, and marketing for the family.
With so many children in the house, space was at a premium. Privacy was rare. Still, my mother always told me that I was special; as a treat, she often left a piece of coconut toto or roasted breadfruit, wrapped in a towel, at the bottom of the dining-room cabinet, that was just for me. I have many happy memories of growing up in Jamaica: going to the river to catch crawfish; waking up early to fetch water for the familys breakfast; picking pimentos during the summer on a large farm run by Mr. Nick; cooking on the beach with family and friends. On Fridays, my father always brought home fresh fish, and my mom either fried it up or shed make a big, simmering pot of fish soup.
Mom made a different meal every day of the week, always using vegetables that were in season, and whatever meat and fish were available. Our family also raised chickens and pigs; what we didnt sell or give away, we used for ourselves. In addition to learning how to cook at home, I was inspired at school by my Home Economics teacher, Miss Tucker, who taught me how to be a creative cook. Along with home economics, I also specialized in business. This combination would help me a lot when Ed and I decided to open a restaurant. ED: I was born in Jamaica, but my family moved to England when I was five.
Still, I have vivid childhood memories of the island, especially of waiting on the beach for my grandfather to return from fishing, all the while trying to run away from the snapping sand crabs around me. To this very day, I wont eat crabs because of this! My parents found England a difficult and quite hostile place to live. As a result, our home life was very important. Meals were special times, although I remember disliking Saturdays because that was soup day, and I didnt like soup. But I could always look forward to the next day, Sunday, which meant a big meal chicken, rice and peas, and fresh vegetables. One Sunday night, I ate so much and asked for more.
My mother looked at me skeptically and asked if I could handle it. When I said yes, she marched me downstairs and made me eat a whole box of dry, saltine crackers. After that, I learned to be happy with what was on my plate, and to not ask for more! However, it didnt stop me from becoming a chicken thief. Where we lived, we shared the kitchen with two other families; we didnt share meals, just the facilities. The preparation of Sunday dinner usually started the night before chickens were fried and allowed to marinate in seasonings overnight. I soon learned to sneak into the kitchen during the night and raid the chicken pots, taking a leg here, a leg there.
This went on for some time until people started to complain about their one-legged chickens. Eventually, I was found out, and my poor butt paid the price! In the late 1970s, I returned to Jamaica a young man eager to help my Uncle Barry with his import/export business. I promptly fell in love with the island all over again. I remember being surprised by the smiles on everyones faces; they had a joy for life, no matter what they were doing. I learned that the slow, easy pace of life is the best way to live. Anns. Anns.
For me, it was love at first sight, but I was too nervous to approach her, so I watched her walk home every day for months! On her way home, she would always go down the street and go into a store near the gas station; I was sure she had a boyfriend there, but to my relief I learned her father had a sign-making studio there. Opposite the gas station was the towns police headquarters. The local cops would hang out in front, watching all the pretty girls go by. One day, one of the cops beckoned Lily to approach, and he whispered something to her. I watched with my heart in my mouth, but was ecstatic when Lily gave him a really nasty look and marched off. After that, I made sure that I got introduced to her.
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